 The boat from Angra to Ilha Grande, 30mins faster than the ferry and only slightly more expensive. R$7pp, or about £2.20.26-May-2009 18:29, Panasonic DMC-FX3, 5.6, 5.8mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 100 |
I think we’ve just found heaven… Ilha Grande is an island south of Rio, a mountain ridge jutting out of the sea that is where the Brazilians themselves normally spend their holiday. It has amazing beaches, no roads, no cars, and crabs wandering the streets. The best bit is we didn’t even plan to go there until it was recommended so highly by other travellers we’d met at El Misti!
 The bus from Rio to Angra, R$28pp (about £9). Longer distance buses are great in Brazil, comfy seats, more legroom than an airplace, and air conditioning.
The bus from Rio to Angra, R$28pp (about £9). Longer distance buses are great in Brazil, comfy seats, more legroom than an airplace, and air conditioning.26-May-2009 14:49, Panasonic DMC-FX3, 2.8, 5.8mm, 0.025 sec, ISO 100 |
We left on Tuesday morning, taking the #126 bus from outside Botafogo shopping centre to Neuvo Rodoviaria. From there but tickets from Costa Verde to Angra (R$28 or ~£10), about a two hour trip, leaves at 11:45. From Angra bus station, you can walk (a sweaty 20mins) or take a bus to the ferry that will take you to Ilha Grande. The ferry is R$6 and takes 2hrs 30mins, or for R$7 you can take a boat that is much more fun and only takes 1hr 50mins – you’ll hit the boat first. Both leave at 15:30. The view on the way to Ilha Grande is great – lots of islands you wish you could build your own house on as many evidently have!
 Arriving in Abraao, Ilha Grande’s main dock!
Arriving in Abraao, Ilha Grande's main dock!26-May-2009 20:42, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 5.6, 28.0mm, 0.013 sec, ISO 800 |
As we sailed into Abraao, the main (only?) port in Ilha Grande, the fact that it is described as a mountain range became evidently clear – it is forested hill, towering rock and gentle beaches all mashed up into one big island. You could probably hike from one end to the other in about 12 hrs, but you’d need to be the kind of person that did a triathlon before breakfast and wrestled alligators as a warm up! Not sure exactly which peak we’ll attempt, but it’ll definitely earn us a few more Caipirinhas at the end of the night! 
 Marco was a star and knew what to do at every stage of the journey. We’d have made it without him, but it would have been a lot more stressful!
Marco was a star and knew what to do at every stage of the journey. We'd have made it without him, but it would have been a lot more stressful!26-May-2009 18:30, Panasonic DMC-FX3, 2.8, 5.8mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 100 |
We were warned that we’d meet with lots of touts for apartments at the pier who would also discount the various hostels on the island, and we did, but were also offered the even better option of an apartment for only R$60 (£20) a night for the whole apartment as it is low season. The apartment is awesome! It has one double and four single beds, air conditioning, hot showers (can’t wait), cooking facilities, and is smack bang in the middle of Abraao (the main area of Ilha Grande)! We travelled this whole route with Marco, a German we befriended at El Misti, and by sheer coincidence met with the rest of the El Misti crew in the local supermarket (5 metres from our apartment).
 Brazilian Pool! Its like normal Pool, but with less balls, no black, and the pockets are all fractionally smaller than the actual balls.
Brazilian Pool! Its like normal Pool, but with less balls, no black, and the pockets are all fractionally smaller than the actual balls.27-May-2009 04:03, Panasonic DMC-FX3, 2.8, 5.8mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 400 |
A few conversations later and we all agreed to meet at Aquario hostel – a bit of a dive apparently but it does have some great parties so an excellent way to spend Tuesday night. A few Caipirinhas and many beers later we’re all suitably heavy lidded, so trying to play Brazilian Pool where the pockets are fractionally smaller than the actual balls was exceptionally tough. Particularly for me… and then it was time to head back to our apartment.
 Obstacle! Stand off!
Obstacle! Stand off!26-May-2009 22:21, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 4.0, 45.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 400 |
Even when we’d only been in Ilha Grande a few hours, we’d already fallen in love. It’s quiet, safe, completely chilled and just beautiful. We’re fascinated by the crabs – they’re not small, and keep randomly appearing doing their sideways walk down the sandy roads. There looks to be a lot of diving and boat trips, we’re likely to be hiking and beaching most of the time but we’ve already planned to stay an extra night as it really is an amazing place.
Abraao is the main dock for Ilha Grande, and where most of the shops and restaurants are. Beer is cheaper if you buy it by the 12 pack and not in a fridge (its R$1.4 as opposed to R$2.5 this way) – as we’ve got an apartment we can chill them; most hostels don’t allow you to bring in your own alcohol. You’ll see lots of very tanned people walking around who are here to dive, surf, kayak or snorkel and some spend a very long time on this small island! There are a lot of hiking trails, all clearly marked on the many maps around the place. The streets are swept every day, so everything looks relatively tidy. It does rain occasionally, but when the sun is out as normal it is very hot! To eat out is anywhere from R$10 to R$25 per person, if you cook yourself it can cost you only R$5 (£1.80) very easily.
There is no cash machine, nowhere to change money, and the supermarkets are small and slightly above average cost, so stock up before you take the ferry in Angra. The internet is also not so readily available, so you’re probably reading this a couple of days after it was written and at the same time as a barrage of other posts – but we’ve got four nights here now and we can’t wait. Let you know how it goes! Love to all!
Last night at El Misti – nine player sh*thead! Good going!25-May-2009 03:09, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 400 |
The bus from Rio to Angra, R$28pp (about £9). Longer distance buses are great in Brazil, comfy seats, more legroom than an airplace, and air conditioning.26-May-2009 14:49, Panasonic DMC-FX3, 2.8, 5.8mm, 0.025 sec, ISO 100 |
The boat from Angra to Ilha Grande, 30mins faster than the ferry and only slightly more expensive. R$7pp, or about £2.20.26-May-2009 18:29, Panasonic DMC-FX3, 5.6, 5.8mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 100 |
Our vessel and its passengers.26-May-2009 19:36, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 11.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 800 |
Setting off from Angra – you can see the ferry on the right that set off at the same time we did. We did not see it again.26-May-2009 18:48, Panasonic DMC-FX3, 5.6, 5.8mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 100 |
The smoke from the fire on this island created a very cool halo, not out of place in a Lost episode!26-May-2009 19:35, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 14.0, 55.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 800 |
Marco was a star and knew what to do at every stage of the journey. We'd have made it without him, but it would have been a lot more stressful!26-May-2009 18:30, Panasonic DMC-FX3, 2.8, 5.8mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 100 |
Now THAT's a good place to build a house…26-May-2009 19:40, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 14.0, 63.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 800 |
Its just missing a speedboat, although I wouldn't complain…26-May-2009 19:41, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 10.0, 80.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 800 |
The stunning rolling hills of South coast Brazil.26-May-2009 19:43, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 16.0, 28.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 800 |
Maxin' relaxin'26-May-2009 20:16, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 10.0, 45.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 800 |
Chillin' Coolin'26-May-2009 20:26, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 800 |
Arriving in Abraao, Ilha Grande's main dock!26-May-2009 20:42, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 5.6, 28.0mm, 0.013 sec, ISO 800 |
There are loads of these crabs walking the streets, we see about four or five a day.26-May-2009 22:20, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 4.0, 45.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 400 |
Obstacle! Stand off!26-May-2009 22:21, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 4.0, 45.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 400 |
Hang on, crabs walk sideways. So he can carefully sidle by and keep both eyes on his worthy opponent…26-May-2009 22:21, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 4.0, 28.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 400 |
Party time at Aquario – apparently terrible to stay at but they do throw a mean party.27-May-2009 01:55, Panasonic DMC-FX3, 2.8, 5.8mm, 1 sec, ISO 200 |
Marcus, Francis and Marco!27-May-2009 01:47, Panasonic DMC-FX3, 2.8, 5.8mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 100 |
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