 I have always been interested in Capoeira, and Salvador is famous for it. There are many masters and groups based here.06-Jun-2009 19:34, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400 |
Salvador de Bahia is Brazil´s Capital of Happiness, and the third most populous city. We´d heard a lot of amazing things, although we knew they´d be curtailed by my knee injury. It has crazy weather, incessant begging and a high crime rate; it also has amazing parties, a magnificent historic centre and fascinating African roots. We stayed in three different hostels, hit the town for Samba, and I even got a haircut!
We arrived in Salvador airport after a marathon wait at the airport in Rio having bused all the way from Paraty; we had a hospital appointment to make to find out exactly what was going on with my knee. At 1am we were picked up by the guardian angel that was Harrison, our taxi driver. He didn´t speak a word of English, every time he pointed his finger at a new sight it was surrounded in a barrage of Portuguese and finished with his unique laugh; it put a big smile on our faces on the way to Alpha Hostel in Barra, our digs for the next few days!
 Alpha Hostel chillout zone!
Alpha Hostel chillout zone!05-Jun-2009 19:01, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 9.0, 30.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 800 |
For the first few days we went a little stir crazy. Lynette & I were virtually the only people in a fairly large hostel, and Barra itself didn´t seem to have much to offer except some conveniently close beaches and a few bars as we were staying during low season. The weather was in a fickle mood, teasing us with glorious sunshine and then throwing us torrents of rain for ten minutes to soak everything and us off track. However, on Saturday I´d grown used to my crutches and we took our first venture out into the wild as fully mobile individuals!
 The famous elevator that takes you into Pelhorinho, the historic centre. Generally big queues, don’t come here after dark!
The famous elevator that takes you into Pelhorinho, the historic centre. Generally big queues, don't come here after dark!08-Jun-2009 18:37, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 200 |
Pelourinho is the historic centre of Salvador, and about 100m higher than the surrounding districts. If you´re walking, you would normally get the elevator or cable car to get there! Lynette loved the walk; for once I was reduced to a rather sweaty snail pace around the cobbled streets and Lynette very much enjoyed the opportunity to actually appreciate the scenery rather than have a whirlwind tour!
First, the bad. Salvador is not the cleanest of places. That is, there are many beggars, many persistent street sellers, and scruples aren´t high on their list of priorities. You don´t take a city bus at night; while we toured Pelourinho we met two young girls on their first day, who had their bus from the airport to the city centre held up at gunpoint the night before. The bus driver & the girls all lost money and cameras, the bus driver was forced to take a detour and drop the three assailants in a place more convenient to them, and they all went to the police station afterwards to give their statements. It was only 8pm, but it was dark!
 There are many pushy street sellers, normally offering a ‘free’ wrist band that quickly becomes a necessity to purchase. This guy took the ‘no’, but still wanted to be in the picture!
There are many pushy street sellers, normally offering a 'free' wrist band that quickly becomes a necessity to purchase. This guy took the 'no', but still wanted to be in the picture!06-Jun-2009 17:30, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 11.0, 28.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 800 |
Plus the sellers often don´t take no for an answer and will follow you for ages. We´ve had this happen in many other countries, but when it gets dark quickly and I only have one leg it can be quite unsettling. The beggars themselves are renowned among travellers; there´s the two pregnant women who will braid your hair when you´re sitting down and then demand money, the club-footed guy who´ll harass your table and then fall over when the owner comes to shoo him away, the kid who juggles coconuts and many more. The kid was actually quite good, I gave him some change, but depressingly virtually all the child beggars in Salvador are on crack and will just buy that straight away. Even if you give them wfood, they´ll sell it and go buy crack anyway. The only sure way is to buy food, open it in front of them and watch them eat it! Lovely place.
 Ingreja do Desterro.
Ingreja do Desterro.06-Jun-2009 18:22, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 11.0, 28.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 800 |
On the good side, and there are many, Salvador is a place rich in culture and architecture and previously the capital of Brazil. It was also the main port for the ´training´of incoming African slaves, and as such has a rich black heritage. This shines through in the thousands of colourful paintings on sale and display, in the many stalls and street sellers on the road, in the beautiful churches, and in their predominant religion, Candomble. Candomble was created by the slaves as a way of praying to their routes, but in a guise undetectable by their masters as they blended it with Catholocism. This was achieved by moving their religious days to coincide with ours, such as Easter Sunday or Christmas day, and their prayers then appeared to be inline with what was expected when they were in fact remembering their own deities.
 The Church of Sao Francisco, impressive painted ceiling again but you are not allowed to take photos.
The Church of Sao Francisco, impressive painted ceiling again but you are not allowed to take photos.06-Jun-2009 19:31, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 13.0, 28.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400 |
The churches are many and huge, the streets cobbled and mostly barred to traffic, the colonial houses are decorated in warm pastel colours and for some reason there are about forty different car audio shops, but no supermarket. Helpful – thankfully the food is pretty good!
 One of my favourites.
One of my favourites.06-Jun-2009 21:06, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 25.0, 50.0mm, 0.025 sec, ISO 400 |
We made our way back to Alpha hostel after a very satisfying, tiring day via Barra, accidentally managing a two mile hop-hike when we got dropped off a bit further away from home, but stopping off at the lighthouse gave us an opportunity to chill out and watch the sunset with some local (and terrible) street delicacies. The view was certainly magnificent though, and we enjoyed the moment before setting for home.
 Marcus and Francis arrived at 4am the night before, so some beach was a great way to wake up!
Marcus and Francis arrived at 4am the night before, so some beach was a great way to wake up!07-Jun-2009 16:32, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 11.0, 105.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 250 |
On the Sunday we were looking forward to meeting up with Marcus & Francis, more refugees from the El Misti crew in Rio, who had touring the North East coast of Brazil and its magnificent beaches… they were also looking forward to some civilisation! Even better, it was also Marcus´ birthday, and Lynette and I are always up for a good celebration!
 Marcus admiring his trench…
Marcus admiring his trench…07-Jun-2009 16:53, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 7.1, 38.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 200 |
They arrived in at 3am after a 9hr bus ride, so we met them at breakfast the next day. Marcus had two main priorities for the day, surprisingly neither of which involved a Stein – those were Pizza and the beach. Not a bad combination! Marcus also revealed himself as the Steve Irwin of the beach culture. Two tricks he passed on; to keep your water cool, bury it in the sand where the lapping waves will cover and then recede. Tastes salty, but refreshing! Tip two; when the rapidly advancing waves threaten your carefully staked out tanning plot, dig a channel in the sand in front of you with your heel to buy an extra fifteen minutes. With the Germans, its not just beach towels at dawn, its a way of life!
 After booking into Galeria 13 in Pelourinho, we hopped out for a spot of ice cream.
After booking into Galeria 13 in Pelourinho, we hopped out for a spot of ice cream.07-Jun-2009 20:39, Panasonic DMC-FX3, 2.8, 5.8mm, 0.077 sec, ISO 200 |
After the beach we headed back to Alpha hostel for the last time; we were picking up our packs and heading for a hopefully more lively atmosphere in the historic centre, staying at Galeria 13 hostel. Owned by Paulo, it was definitely much busier and more chilled – funny how cost & fun are generally inversely proportional when it comes to hostels. We dumped our bags and headed into town for Marcus’ second birthday request; pizza!
 Pizza, beer and friends. We should be sponsered by Pizza Hut!
Pizza, beer and friends. We should be sponsered by Pizza Hut!07-Jun-2009 23:14, Panasonic DMC-FX3, 2.8, 5.8mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 200 |
We went to a recommended pizzeria just off of Terreiro de Jesus, the main square in Pelhourinho, and chowed down on some not bad italian cuisine; apparently Marcus spent three years as a stone bake pizza chef and oddly still hankers for the stuff! Even better, after our meal, we could hear a lot of noise from the back of the restaurant and went for a look. Conveniently the rear of four restaurants all seemed to congregate in one place, and by no coincidence there was a large stage, a samba band, and a big crowd of people having a whale of a time. What a great way to finish a meal!
 Marcus’ birthday cake. We all had a slice.
Marcus' birthday cake. We all had a slice.08-Jun-2009 04:29, Panasonic DMC-FX3, 2.8, 5.8mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 100 |
We saw quite a few funny people in the crowd, ladies of the night paying each other off to get off their turf, samba dancers teaching their students in the crowd, Rastafarians move matched in their dance (Mike/Chris you’d have been proud!) and generally a whole lot of smiles. Once the event was over, we stopped off at another bar in the street with an outside band and chilled out to a few more beers. Nothing crazy, but those Caipirinhas did go down well!
 The next day we headed to Modello Market, famous for good value souvenirs. This awesome bike helmet was only R$120, really wanted to get this for my Dad but not sure he’d wear it…
The next day we headed to Modello Market, famous for good value souvenirs. This awesome bike helmet was only R$120, really wanted to get this for my Dad but not sure he'd wear it…08-Jun-2009 17:06, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 7.1, 35.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 200 |
Finally we went home, and didn’t enjoy one of our few dorm stays in a hostel. Me & Lynette don’t cope well when we can’t sleep as nature intended and have no control over the room fan… 
. Breakfast was awesome, the toasty machine made a welcome appearance and they offered eggs which is a bit like a new friend buying you a pint when you’re travelling. Marcus & Francis were heading straight off that day continuing on their way to Bolivia, and on the way to their ferry was Mercado Modelo, a large market at the bottom of Salvador’s elevator that while heavily slanted at tourist clientele does have a huge variety of clothes & trinkets to look over.
 Finally, my reward for learning to walk again. A much needed haircut! Exceptional work, and only R$15. Happy days!
Finally, my reward for learning to walk again. A much needed haircut! Exceptional work, and only R$15. Happy days!08-Jun-2009 19:29, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 6.3, 28.0mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 200 |
We said goodbye to them both, and hope to cross path’s again somewhere but it won’t be on this trip unfortunately! We then headed back in to the market; I’d spotted a barber and my hair was getting ut of control. I was slightly nervous of getting my hair cut by a man I had no means of communicating verbally with, but it was completely undeserved as he did a fantastic job, using clean razers and everying. No – not a travelling skinhead but it is pretty short now! We finished off Monday by doing something we’d been looking forward to immensely for the past few days; watched The Apprentice Final! Yasmina’s from Caversham don’t you know?! Apparently she own’s a suddenly slightly more expensive restaurant there…
Hope all is good in the UK, have just read on BBC news that Chesterfield is in the middle of a flash flood, also noticed that Bogota, Colombia, is currently enjoying even heavier rain than Salvador. We arrive there this Friday!
A rather malnourished Police horse!06-Jun-2009 15:55, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 10.0, 68.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 800 |
A small band playing happy hardcore twang guitar to attract local shoppers.06-Jun-2009 16:17, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 5.6, 105.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400 |
Touching the sky in Praca de Se.06-Jun-2009 17:06, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 11.0, 30.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400 |
A lovely pose, probably just after being asked to hurry up!06-Jun-2009 17:20, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 11.0, 28.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 800 |
Lots of street sellers, this guy was making shoes from a variety of materials including car tyres for the soles!06-Jun-2009 17:21, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 11.0, 28.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 800 |
One of the many cobbled streets that are lined with a variety of art and african culture for purchase.06-Jun-2009 17:23, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 14.0, 28.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 800 |
This artist painted directly onto t-shirts.06-Jun-2009 17:24, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 800 |
This guy was a fast worker; no idea if he did all this in one day!06-Jun-2009 17:26, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 11.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 800 |
A groovy peice of metal art.06-Jun-2009 17:28, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 8.0, 75.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 800 |
There are many pushy street sellers, normally offering a 'free' wrist band that quickly becomes a necessity to purchase. This guy took the 'no', but still wanted to be in the picture!06-Jun-2009 17:30, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 11.0, 28.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 800 |
The top of Rosario Dos Pretos, called the 'Slave Church'.06-Jun-2009 17:31, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 11.0, 105.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 800 |
Looking down the steep cobbled streets that take you down from the elevation that is Pelourinho, the historic centre.06-Jun-2009 17:36, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 14.0, 85.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 800 |
Inside Rosario dos Pretos, built by slaves over a period of 100yrs.06-Jun-2009 17:43, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 800 |
This is the painted ceiling, which is quite impressive.06-Jun-2009 17:44, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.077 sec, ISO 800 |
Candoble ceremonies take place in here daily; after every one they go to party!06-Jun-2009 17:44, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 4.0, 55.0mm, 0.02 sec, ISO 800 |
Although that could just be my perception…06-Jun-2009 17:47, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 800 |
Outside Juan Salvador Museum, a famous Brazilian writer.06-Jun-2009 18:00, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 11.0, 28.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 800 |
A variety of his book covers as they have been published across the globe.06-Jun-2009 18:01, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 4.5, 28.0mm, 0.02 sec, ISO 800 |
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I think you’re right Steve. I wouldn’t, and couldn’t, wear that helmet in UK. But awesome decoration though. Looks like you’re “hopping” from place to place fine now, so knee must be starting to heal. Excellent news, you can keep up the tour now. Enjoy. Dad
Trying our best! We’ve now arrived in Colombia, and I have no crutches. Am able to walk, but improvements are slower now that I’m using the knee more. I have the results of the MRI scan, but it looks more like a set of observations rather than recommendations; plus its in Portugeuse and I think Google Translate is missing something! Will keep you posted, Lynette knows some physiotherapists fluent in the language who are going to take a look for me… speak later!