Gallery: Museo del Oro & Botero in Bogota

"Some wear feathered hat... and at the head of them all go the leaders, the oldest in the middle... And the leaders have gourds full of chicha put in their hands and the pipers play very long flutes" Bartolome Briones de Pedraza, 1540.

"Some wear feathered hat… and at the head of them all go the leaders, the oldest in the middle… And the leaders have gourds full of chicha put in their hands and the pipers play very long flutes" Bartolome Briones de Pedraza, 1540.14-Jun-2009 19:59, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 5.6, 105.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 1600

Bogota is the capital of Columbia, and the third highest capital city in the world at 2,640m – twice the height of Ben Nevis. We flew in last Friday from Salvador, Brazil at 8pm and all the positive feedback we’d heard about Colombia is true. It’s a beautiful and geographically varied country with exceptionally helpful and friendly locals; we’re already going to be staying at least twice as long as planned!

View of the Amazon river, from the plane over Manaus.View of the Amazon river, from the plane over Manaus.

View of the Amazon river, from the plane over Manaus.12-Jun-2009 22:38, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 5.0, 28.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 200

We flew with Gol, who I’ve already rated highly before, and managed to buy flights from Salvador to Bogota at an exceptional R$875 each (~£275). The route was down to Sao Paulo, and then cruelly via Manaus (We’ve had to drop the main Amazon River trip to gain back some time) and on to Bogota. We did however manage to see the Amazon River from our plane window, and it does look immense with flooding spreading at least twice its width in either direction; just to show all those other rivers in the world they’ve got a long way to go to claim the largest river in the world title! We won’t miss out too much by not taking the cruise itself; it was going to be an arduous six day jaunt getting friendly with a hammock that isn’t spoken of very highly by those who have completed it! Plus, the Amazon basin and its associated animals, fauna and jungle spreads into many other countries we are visiting including Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia so we’ll still get to see those elusive pink dolphins.

Cranky Croc hostel on the left, Guadalupe and Monserrate mountains to the back.Cranky Croc hostel on the left, Guadalupe and Monserrate mountains to the back.

Cranky Croc hostel on the left, Guadalupe and Monserrate mountains to the back.13-Jun-2009 17:28, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 200

We stayed the first two nights in the relatively new and fairly lively Cranky Croc hostel; when we arrived it was rammed with revellers all about to hit Zona Rossa for the night, the upmarket place to be in Bogota and unfortunately not budget or cripple friendly! After a 12hr flight however, we were happy for them to head on out while we chilled back in the hostel for the evening and made a few new friends. Lynette had learnt from our trip around Brazil, and we were determined to make the most of our time in Colombia now that my leg was slowly repairing itself, so put together a great itinerary for the next few days in Bogota, and highlighted a few places we’d like to visit afterwards. Having been mostly imprisoned in hostels for the last couple of weeks, the excitement of what we would see in the next week or so was very welcome!

Saturday we woke and decided to start our roam around La Candelaria, the old centre of Bogota and conveniently where our hostel was based. Unfortunately, we made it as far as the supermarket when my hopping spasm that I’d been reduced to made be absolutely knackered; the altitude and distances we needed to cover made our brand new plans yet again unachievable without help! So, it was back to the hostel to try and source some crutches. Long story short, by 6pm we’d had them dropped off at the hostel and rented for a month. Happy days – to celebrate Lynette & I headed into town for a few beers and eagerly awaited Sunday… would we finally be able to actually do something?!

Wrong camera setting. But this is the entrance to Museo del Oro!Wrong camera setting. But this is the entrance to Museo del Oro!

Wrong camera setting. But this is the entrance to Museo del Oro!14-Jun-2009 20:52, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 22.0, 28.0mm, 0.05 sec, ISO 1600

So, Sunday arrived! I hoisted my new ‘old skool’ crutches under my armpit and we set off for Museo del Oro, the famous gold museum of Bogota (coincidentally free to enter on Sundays). I’ll admit, we were a bit confused as to why it was such a landmark; I anticipated three main exhibits. Here’s some old gold. Here’s some new gold. Here’s some fools gold. There’s the exit…

Priests placed groups of objects as offerings inside pottery containers of various different shapes.Priests placed groups of objects as offerings inside pottery containers of various different shapes.

Priests placed groups of objects as offerings inside pottery containers of various different shapes.14-Jun-2009 20:08, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 9.0, 40.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 1600

However our fears were unfounded and we can sincerely say that Museo del Oro is one of the best laid out museums we have ever visited. It takes you on a journey through the mining of gold, the manufacture of gold items, its importance in tribal culture, its impact on Colombian history and much more. All translated into perfect English for foreign visitors, clean and up to date. It took us about 3hrs to see everything, and we could have easily spent more. I’ve tried to pass on some of the highlights in the gallery below, but a couple of interesting bits about gold & Columbia;

  • This is a gold model of a Chieftain covered in gold heading out on a raft into the water covered in gold. It is this legend that was used to confuse the Conquestidors into chasing a different meaning of El Dorado in search for riches.This is a gold model of a Chieftain covered in gold heading out on a raft into the water covered in gold. It is this legend that was used to confuse the Conquestidors into chasing a different meaning of El Dorado in search for riches.

    This is a gold model of a Chieftain covered in gold heading out on a raft into the water covered in gold. It is this legend that was used to confuse the Conquestidors into chasing a different meaning of El Dorado in search for riches.14-Jun-2009 20:39, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 4.5, 105.0mm, 0.05 sec, ISO 1600

    When the Spanish Conquistadors first came to Columbia (which is named after Christopher Columbus, even though he never set a foot in the area!) they were amazed with the valuable jewels and gold that the various tribes wore daily and this was a major factor in their conquest of South America. In Columbia, they heard the legend of El Dorado, a golden city studded with emeralds that set their imagination, and potential profits, roaring. They never found the city, because it didn’t actually exist. The truth was that a South American tribal leader used to cover himself in resin and gold dust, before entering Lake Guatavita and leaving golden presents as offerings to the gods. When he returned from the lake, all the gold dust would be washed off and the ceremony complete. When the story of this legend reached the Conquistadors it was confused into a city, and the natives had no problem with fuelling the rumours and sent armies on wild goose chases across the region in search of a place that didn’t exist.

  • The poporos, which are containers that held the lime that was used when coca leaves were being chewed, are shaped like humans, birds, jaguars and alligators.The poporos, which are containers that held the lime that was used when coca leaves were being chewed, are shaped like humans, birds, jaguars and alligators.

    The poporos, which are containers that held the lime that was used when coca leaves were being chewed, are shaped like humans, birds, jaguars and alligators.14-Jun-2009 19:38, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 5.6, 105.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 1600

    One of the principle methods of working with gold is the “Lost Wax” process. Designs were fashioned from the wax of Angel Bees (who have no sting), which were then covered in clay and fired. The wax would melt and drain away in channels, leaving a fired clay mould that molten gold was poured in to. The clay would be broken, leaving intricate detail that would not be possible with hammer and stone. In this way, each design was unique as the mould could only be used once. Different alloys could be poured in at different stages to create varying colours and textures. When the Europeans first found examples of this work, the fingerprints they found in the gold led them to believed they had been fashioned by hand, when in fact they were impressions left in the wax at the very start of the process.


  • Candidates for the priesthood were trained by wise men and elderly masters. They spent years locked up in temples and caves, where they never saw the light of day and where they were subjected to diets without salt or chilis and many other restrictions.Candidates for the priesthood were trained by wise men and elderly masters. They spent years locked up in temples and caves, where they never saw the light of day and where they were subjected to diets without salt or chilis and many other restrictions.

    Candidates for the priesthood were trained by wise men and elderly masters. They spent years locked up in temples and caves, where they never saw the light of day and where they were subjected to diets without salt or chilis and many other restrictions.14-Jun-2009 20:28, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 11.0, 38.0mm, 0.05 sec, ISO 1600

    The shamans were respected yet crazy people. Locked away in caves for much of their youth in training, they typically adopted the characteristics of a certain animal in their practises. For instance, a jaguar shaman would see jaguars as humans and their fellow tribesman as their prey. Not a great situation for either party!

The first thing you see in the Botero museum is this massive hand!The first thing you see in the Botero museum is this massive hand!

The first thing you see in the Botero museum is this massive hand!14-Jun-2009 21:16, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 4.0, 28.0mm, 0.025 sec, ISO 1600

We left the gold museum and headed for our next stop, the Botero museum. Fernando Botero Angulo (born April 19th 1932), is a famous Columbian neo-figurative artist who donated over 800 pieces of his work to Bogota city, on the condition that any entrance to the exhibits would be free. Botero drew all of the people in his paintings as overweight, and this followed through into animals and his sculptures. Since the museum was created, many other artist’s work has been added, including Renoir, Monet and Salvador Dali. The museum itself is again beautiful, set in a large colonial building that houses many other exhibits and galleries, although we didn’t have time to see these, we were trying to rush to the police museum! We left Botero’s paintings and continued though La Candeleria.

The streets of Bogota, 2640m altitude.The streets of Bogota, 2640m altitude.

The streets of Bogota, 2640m altitude.14-Jun-2009 21:56, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 16.0, 73.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 1600

Bogota itself is laid out in blocks, with Carreras being perpendicular to Calles, making everything very easy to find. The streets are mostly clean and well kept, particularly in the more visited spots. As with any city we’ve visited so far, you don’t go anywhere quiet at night, and you keep your wits about you during the day. We met Vincent in our second hostel in Bogota, a Frenchman living in an apartment here for the last two months. He’s been mugged five times, every time on a Sunday, the last time he was walking to his apartment when a man sleeping on the street suddenly rose and chased him to the door brandishing a machete. The assailant managed to get through the front door, and only ran away when Vincent’s cries woke other apartment tenants who then came out to see what the commotion was. We were glad to hear these stories, as it reminded us to always stay vigilant!

The view of Capitolio Nacional from Plaza Bolivar.The view of Capitolio Nacional from Plaza Bolivar.

The view of Capitolio Nacional from Plaza Bolivar.14-Jun-2009 22:19, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 18.0, 28.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 1600

On the way to the Police Museum, we stopped for a quick snack of pasties & juice, and what we thought was a donut but was actually bread cement covered in icing for 6,500 pesos (~£2), and then went to cross the majestic Bolivar square. Simon Bolivar is a political hero in South America, heavily responsible for liberating the various countries from Spanish rule and creating the independent Gran Columbia, of which he became president, in 1821. He’s also the only man to have a country named after him, Bolivia, not bad going! The square is very impressive, on one side is the Capatolio Nacional with its massive columns and on another the Cathedral & Sagrario Chapel – it is this cathedral where we were heavily sidetracked by a large crowd and army band about to herald something obviously special; although we had no idea what. The band stopped and started intermittently, each time sending up a huge flock of pigeons which in the Columbian sunshine looked glorious. A few members of the crowd hurried to the red carpet that was fenced off and flowing from the cathedral to lay rose petals to continue towards the centre of Bolivar square. We trembled with excitement(ish)… what was going to come out of the cathedral? A famous wedding? The President of Columbia? Finally a long procession of religious figures emerged; we should have guessed it was a Church after all! There was lots of clapping and cheering, and then we headed back to the hostel, saving the Police museum for another day.

This guy was a rather less successful; but fearless nonetheless!This guy was a rather less successful; but fearless nonetheless!

This guy was a rather less successful; but fearless nonetheless!14-Jun-2009 23:01, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 6.3, 73.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 1600

On the way back we saw more sides of Bogota, they are heavily into skateboarding, BMX biking and also graffiti (which is exceptional; I’ve never seen a huge graffiti mural with sparkling glitter liberally daubed across it, they look great! If only we hadn’t been whizzing past in a taxi at the time…) – there is a rock festival next week which looks heavily death metal focussed. The skateboarders we saw were hilarious, a bit like a live action You’ve Been Framed, the ten step drop they were jumping had probably a 5% success rate, but they kept on trying! No fear… That night we also moved hostels across to Hostel Sue Candelaria as Cranky Croc was full and we had not booked that far in advance. A lot of locals were staying there, reminding us how bad our Spanish still is! We settled down to an interesting attempt at Stroganoff and then watched Che on a great 42” plasma with surround sound. A great and even educational way to finish a day. But man, these crutches make your armpit hurt!!

Next »
View of the Amazon river, from the plane over Manaus.

View of the Amazon river, from the plane over Manaus.12-Jun-2009 22:38, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 5.0, 28.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 200

Cranky Croc hostel on the left, Guadalupe and Monserrate mountains to the back.

Cranky Croc hostel on the left, Guadalupe and Monserrate mountains to the back.13-Jun-2009 17:28, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 200

Wrong camera setting. But this is the entrance to Museo del Oro!

Wrong camera setting. But this is the entrance to Museo del Oro!14-Jun-2009 20:52, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 22.0, 28.0mm, 0.05 sec, ISO 1600

Around 200BC, a Cauca valley goldsmith pressed seven sheets of gold onto a sea snail, the natural shell has deteriorated but the gold has retained its shape.

Around 200BC, a Cauca valley goldsmith pressed seven sheets of gold onto a sea snail, the natural shell has deteriorated but the gold has retained its shape.14-Jun-2009 18:51, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 4.0, 28.0mm, 0.025 sec, ISO 200

One of the many beautiful objects in Museo d'Oro

One of the many beautiful objects in Museo d'Oro14-Jun-2009 18:59, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 4.0, 75.0mm, 0.05 sec, ISO 200

Much of the work is incredibly intricate, and needs to be blown up to fully appreciate the workmanship.

Much of the work is incredibly intricate, and needs to be blown up to fully appreciate the workmanship.14-Jun-2009 19:01, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 5.0, 105.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400

The start of the “Lost Wax” method of creating gold artifacts.

The start of the “Lost Wax” method of creating gold artifacts.14-Jun-2009 19:02, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 5.0, 50.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 400

Originally, Europeans thought that the gold was moulded by hand, due to the fingerprints on the gold. It was actually fingerprints on the original wax, from which moulds were created.

Originally, Europeans thought that the gold was moulded by hand, due to the fingerprints on the gold. It was actually fingerprints on the original wax, from which moulds were created.14-Jun-2009 19:03, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 5.6, 60.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400

On the left is an original wax model, which is then wrapped in clay and fired. The wax melts, leaving a mould that gold is carefully poured in to. Finally, the clay mould is broken and discarded, leaving the golden creation on the right.

On the left is an original wax model, which is then wrapped in clay and fired. The wax melts, leaving a mould that gold is carefully poured in to. Finally, the clay mould is broken and discarded, leaving the golden creation on the right.14-Jun-2009 19:04, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 6.3, 60.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400

More moulds, and finished articles.

More moulds, and finished articles.14-Jun-2009 19:05, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 5.0, 48.0mm, 0.013 sec, ISO 400

The work is so incredibly fine; often different alloys are poured into a mould at different stages to produce variations in colour and texture.

The work is so incredibly fine; often different alloys are poured into a mould at different stages to produce variations in colour and texture.14-Jun-2009 19:06, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 5.0, 105.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400

This chart represents the different colours that can be created by creating alloys from silver, gold and copper.

This chart represents the different colours that can be created by creating alloys from silver, gold and copper.14-Jun-2009 19:21, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 4.0, 30.0mm, 0.025 sec, ISO 400

These are stones from San Agustin, a place we are likely to visit in our travels of Columbia; a major attraction with large carved stones.

These are stones from San Agustin, a place we are likely to visit in our travels of Columbia; a major attraction with large carved stones.14-Jun-2009 19:32, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 6.3, 28.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 1600

These are monkeys. Can't fail with monkeys on anything.

These are monkeys. Can't fail with monkeys on anything.14-Jun-2009 19:33, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 7.1, 105.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 1600

Discs are often decorated with contrasting textures and colours; when hung from a cord during ceremonies and made to spin they had hypnotic effects.

Discs are often decorated with contrasting textures and colours; when hung from a cord during ceremonies and made to spin they had hypnotic effects.14-Jun-2009 19:34, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 7.1, 45.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 1600

The human figure was portrayed with pronounced skull deformation and with numerous ornaments inserted in the skin.

The human figure was portrayed with pronounced skull deformation and with numerous ornaments inserted in the skin.14-Jun-2009 19:35, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 1600

Stamps and rollers that were used for painting the body. Pottery figures were also generally painted, but they have lost their colour with the passing of time.

Stamps and rollers that were used for painting the body. Pottery figures were also generally painted, but they have lost their colour with the passing of time.14-Jun-2009 19:36, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 1600

Fabulous beings, probably mythical ancestors or transformed shamans, combine human features with those of feline figures, toads, bats, snakes, tortoises and birds.

Fabulous beings, probably mythical ancestors or transformed shamans, combine human features with those of feline figures, toads, bats, snakes, tortoises and birds.14-Jun-2009 19:37, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 6.3, 38.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 1600

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