A bit blurred, but our best attempt to get a photo of the loving couple in the cathedral.
In one day we visited the amazing Salt Cathedral at Zipaquirá, the strangely interesting Colombian Police museum in Bogota, and viewed the sunset from the summit of Monserrate. It was a busy day attempting to squeeze in as much as possible into our last full day in the Columbian capital, all of it good.
Lynette and I at the main square in Zipaquira.
Lynette and I at the main square in Zipaquira.
Zipaquirá is a small colonial mining town about 20km from Bogota. The salt mines are still active, and one area has been the site of not one, but two cathedrals. The first was structurally unsound and had to be permanently closed. The second was built in only three years from 1992 and is expected to last seven centuries due to improvements, however I had worrying expectations of a large flat salt plain and a typical stone cathedral sat squarely on top. Thankfully, yet again my expectations were completely wrong and it was actually damn impressive!
At the entrance we waited for the included English speaking guide, from right to left; Bram, Danesh, Brad, Piers, John, Lynette and Jean-C;aire.
At the entrance we waited for the included English speaking guide, from right to left; Bram, Danesh, Brad, Piers, John, Lynette and Jean-C;aire.
We’d mentioned to a few other travellers our plans, and quickly ended up with a crew of nine to make the trip. Travelling in a group always adds a bit of reassurance, especially when I’m on crutches, as the combined knowledge of all involved generally means you’ll get there in the quickest and safest manner. In this case, for those in Bogota who want to make the Salt Cathedral trip, you need to;
Take the B74 bus from Las Aguas bus stop (On the Monserrate side of La Candelaria just past the very bad car boot sale) to Portal Norte, it costs COP$1,500 (40p) one way and takes 40mins.
At Portal Norte, the Zipaquirá bus is normally the other side of the fence you are dropped off at. You buy your ticket on the bus, it costs COP$3,400 (£1) each way and takes 45mins.
When you arrive at Zipaquirá, you will be dropped off in the street; there is nowhere to store backpacks. Walk up towards the main square, take a left at the big church. Keep going to the end of the street about four blocks, it’ll open out and you’ll then see an open courtyard with a path heading up the hill. Take this path to the Salt Cathedral. The walk will take fifteen minutes from bus to Cathedral, even when hopping. The whole trip from La Candelaria, Bogota to the Cathedral will take 2hrs, entry is COP$15,000 (£4.50) for the basic tour which is likely all you’ll want. The guide is included.
Take the same bus to get back to Portal Norte (COP$3,400), to get back from Portal Norte to Las Aguas bus stop you’ll need the J72 bus, COP$1,500 again. If you’re planning on getting a taxi from Portal Norte, ask the bus driver to drop you off the stop before Portal Norte otherwise you have to buy a ticket (COP$1,500) just to get out. Ridiculous.
Happy smiling faces surrounded by solid salt. If only somebody had brought some tequila and lemon!
Happy smiling faces surrounded by solid salt. If only somebody had brought some tequila and lemon!
Excellent, the facts bit done! So, we all arrived as intact as we’d been when we left, and started the tour. The guide’s English was excellent, and the Cathedral itself amazing. They are really trying to push it as a top end tourist attraction though; while Dinesh read the hilarious accompanying book on the Cathedral itself (English words, Spanish speaking brain), he slowly realised the subliminal nature of its message. For example, end of page one “…must surely be the eighth wonder of the world” , end of page two “…could be considered the eighth wonder of the world” – we didn’t read till the end, but I’m pretty sure it would have said “…and that’s why IT IS the eighth wonder of the world”.
You can gauge the scale of this room from the tiny size of the people below the cross.
You can gauge the scale of this room from the tiny size of the people below the cross.
The entire cathedral is carved out of a mountainous deposit of salt, which would then be mined, cleaned of impurities and sold. It lies 180m below the surface with no natural lighting so it is all intentionally coloured and placed – this combined with the forced minimalist design (salt rock does not lend itself to intricate carving as it disintegrates) and cavernous rooms really makes the whole tour exceptionally impressive. The cathedral consists of fourteen “stations” that represent different stages in Christ’s life and death where people can pray, with further gigantically scaled rooms holding 40ft crosses, carvings of the birth of Christ, the obligatory tourist shop and more.
More sandstone carvings, representing the birth of Jesus.
More sandstone carvings, representing the birth of Jesus.
There was also a 3D movie that looked like something out of Transformers, we skipped this to save some time as we’d have had to wait thirty minutes before it even started. Our only observation was that they tried very hard to show that every construction process, every design decision, every necessary feature had a meaning attached or represented something. For instance, Lynette particularly liked their reasoning for having three steps down to the altar. Our guide said it represented the holy trinity. We say it was because four steps would have looked stupid, and two steps would not have been enough. There were many examples of this, but hey, we loved it, it was certainly something special to visit and one of our favourites in Columbia so far.
Simon Bolivar, a revolutionary figure that brought Gran Columbia its indepenance. Allegedly, this is the first statue of him created.
Simon Bolivar, a revolutionary figure that brought Gran Columbia its indepenance. Allegedly, this is the first statue of him created.
Columbia is trying very hard to shed its reputation as a dangerous destination, and in the last three years the backpacking boom in the area shows it is working. Many of our friends were surprised and even concerned at our decision to include Columbia, but almost every traveller you meet in South America simply can’t speak highly enough of the beauty and variety in the country. FARC is still very active, and many areas of the country remain a bad idea to visit for some time, but over the next few years you can see that Columbia will become inundated with visitors.
After the Salt Cathedral we headed back to Bogota to squeeze in the Police museum we had missed the day before and then Monserrate to check out the sunset. Brad tagged along as he also wanted to visit these in the same day, so we shared a taxi from Portal Norte (swearing at the ticket booth on the way) and headed back to La Candelaria.
Some of Pablo Escobar’s many guns. He purchased the papers for every one of the little guns in the middle that was manufactured; if he found somebody using one he would kill them.
Some of Pablo Escobar’s many guns. He purchased the papers for every one of the little guns in the middle that was manufactured; if he found somebody using one he would kill them.
The Police Museum itself is a must see attraction of Bogota for mainly one reason – Pablo Escobar. Escobar was an infamous drug lord who at one time controlled 80% of the world’s cocaine, and in 1989 was listed as the 7th richest man in the world by Forbes. He is attributed to over 484 murders, many of which were policemen and judges. At the same time, in his birth town of Medillin near Bogota he was a hero, he donated to local housing projects and built stadiums for local sporting teams.
Lynette, wondering just how she can fit this into her daypack.
Lynette, wondering just how she can fit this into her daypack.
As he tired of the smuggling game, he negotiated his capture by the police on the condition he was kept in a luxury mansion of his own design called La Catedral, with swimming pools, tennis courts and a Jacuzzi. When the police discovered he was still running his empire from ‘jail’ he simply walked out. Later, he tried to become a politician but as his crime ridden past was discovered and his path blocked, he arranged for many supreme high court judges to be killed in retribution. He was finally captured and killed by the police on a rooftop in Medillin, his brother maintaining he committed suicide as he was shot between the ears; something he had always claimed to do if he was cornered.
I feel some photoshop work coming on when it comes time to print… )
I feel some photoshop work coming on when it comes time to print… )
After the Police Museum we headed up to Monserrate, a high mountain overlooking Bogota that is accessible by cable car. You can also hike to the top, but for the last six months this route has been closed with no sign of the promised repair work to the path; this is killing many local businesses that depend on the trade that the hike brings so they’re not happy! However the view from the top is amazing, there is also church and an overpriced restaurant should you desire. Took hundreds of photos, tried to skim them down a bit but see the gallery. I even managed to catch a shot of some lightning!
Definitely Elvis. Won’t hear anything more on the matter.
Definitely Elvis. Won’t hear anything more on the matter.
We also met Dinesh at the top, and the owner of Cranky Croc hostel, an Australian called Andy, and his lovely parents. Small world; in fact pretty much everywhere we go we meet travellers from previous hostels so you are always among friends! We headed back to the hostel, having intended o the overnight bus to San Gil, the activity sports capital of Columbia. What actually happened, was we met three Irish guys we’d met earlier (and have continued to meet!) and polished off two bottles of rum between us. So the bus trip to San Gil happened the next day… but hey, the scenery in Columbia is so nice it is always better to see it during the daytime!
Zipaquira’s Salt Cathedral, Bogota’s Police Museum and Monserrate SunsetIn one day we visited the amazing Salt Cathedral at Zipaquira, the intriguing Colombian Police museum in Bogota, and viewed the sunset from the summit of Monserrate.
Below him are three path’s through, the right representing you have the least sins to be forgiven, the left meaning you have many.
This time I used a flash, the results although clear are suddenly very cold, and with no idea what hides in the darkness!
Our guide at the Police museum, standing next to a manequin of the first Columbian police officer and his “car”, around 1914.
Different police uniforms from around the world.
More uniforms from around the world!
Lynette and Danesh in the main square of Zipaquira. John is arguing with his camera in the background.
Lynette and I at the main square in Zipaquira.
A beautiful old building in the main square of Zipaquira.
A sculpture of a salt miner near the entrance of the mines and cathedral.
Lynette and the rest of the crew having purchased tickets; apparently I didn’t qualify for a disabled discount!
Outside the salt cathedral entrance, note its not 100% guaranteed good weather!
Walking down into the depths…
At the entrance we waited for the included English speaking guide, from right to left; Bram, Danesh, Brad, Piers, John, Lynette and Jean-C;aire.
Danesh was rather disappointed we didn’t get fully kitted out with miner’s gear.
Strangely enough, absolutely everything is made of salt. The walls, the floor, the ceiling and of course the cathedral itself.
There is a lor of fools gold dotted throughout the salt deposits, and originally many tonnes were shipped back to Europe before it was realised what they’d actually found.
Looking back up the “Oak’s tunnel” to where we had started walking in.
There are fourteen stations in the Cathedral, each labelled with roman numerals. These were rescued from the original cathedral which was closed due to structural issues.
This says something alopng the lines of “Jesus the Rescuer”, either way it is a great looking enscription that is about 2.5m high.
The first station’ it is difficult to take non-blurred photos due to the low light. Tripods are banned to help control the distribution of quality interior photos.
The second station. The cavernous nature of each station is immense and hard to convey in a photo. Behind the cross the cavern stretches back about the length of two football pitches.
Station three I think. The minimalist design that works so well is actually a compromise, due to salt’s nature if the carvings were intricate and detailed they would soon crumble away.
The echoes around this chamber helped to make this joining of tunnels special.
The cross in the distance is about 40ft high, the carved angel is made from sandstone as it would not be possible in salt.
You can gauge the scale of this room from the tiny size of the people below the cross.
This is a sandstone carving of St. Paul.
This room holds the helmets of all the miners who died in the cathedral’s construction, which was between 1992 and 1995. They achieved a monumental feat in only three years!
This seal is XXX
From the base of the 40ft cross, looking back at the window we viewed it from.
More sandstone carvings, representing the birth of Jesus.
They have had five baptisms and three weddings at the cathedral. It is only so few weddings as salt is bad luck in Columbia, so a salty wedding is a particularly bad idea!
During baptisms they normally use brine of a simiilar concentration to the salt. Four years ago a woman attempted to quickly wet her baby son’s head above this altar (which took seven man years to make), the dissolving of the salt that followed left this permanent gouge!
Happy smiling faces surrounded by solid salt. If only somebody had brought some tequila and lemon!
This no doubt representeded something else; the one bit they have overdone is the representations, even walking up three steps means something here!
This is not a glorious sculpture or a mountainous set of glowing stalagmites. It is a 12inch high lamp from the tourist shop. I thought it looked pretty cool though.
The focal lunar roof where three tunnels meet, very hypnotic.
Another station; where the physical cross is absent, it is actually carved out of the salt. The four blocks are for people to kneel at when praying.
Apparently they have approximately 2,000 people visiting for mass – the cave system can handle oxygen for up to 5,000 people before things would get tricky.
The carvings and lighting effects really are impressive.
A bit blurred, but our best attempt to get a photo of the loving couple in the cathedral.
The roofscape of ZIpaquira, a delightful colonial miners town in itself.
This machine was used to create magazines and leaflets; not clear how it ended up in a Police museum!
This was Pablo Escobar’s motorcycle which he gave to his brother, it was later confiscated by police.
A Colt-Mk 45mm at the back and a Browning 9mm in the front – both made of silver – a gift from Pablo Escobar.
Some of Pablo Escobar’s many guns. He purchased the papers for every one of the little guns in the middle that was manufactured; if he found somebody using one he would kill them.
One of the Police’s many Wanted posters for Escobar.
Escobar’s typical clothes. Ob the left, a tile from the roof where he died, it still has his blood spattered across it.
He also had these manufactured, cupboards specifically designed for hiding things in them. He had the original carpenter killed so that the secret was not revealed.
Pablo Escobar after plastic surgery, which he did often to evade capture and publicity.
This is to represent Escobar while he was voluntarily imprisoned at La Catedral. It was his own design and more like a luxury beach house that he continued to run his drug empire from, when this was realised he simply left to continue outside of custody.
Later in life, Escobar attempted to become a politician. When his crime-ridden past was revealed and his aspirations quickly stopped, he had several high court judges killed to help his fledgling career.
Pablo Escobar’s mobile phone!
If you want to be happy for a day, get drunk. If you want to be happy for a year, get married. If you want to be happy for life, become a police officer. Don’t ask me!
A shotgun guitar, made by XXX as a sumbol of piece. Only five were made, various people have used them including Coldplay at a concert.
Exampes of different Columbian police hats, unsurprisingly they increase in seniority as the feathers in their cap multiply (from left to right).
And now… hats from around the world!
These guns were often used by women, either in handbags or smuggled into jail where the sun doesn’t shine. Which is why they now get searched there. There’s always one who spoils it for everybody!
Different emblems of the Columbian police force.
The word for handcuffs in Spanish is the same as the word for wife – Esposas!
A variety of different calibre bullets used by the Columbian police force.
This is in their arms gallery, not every weapon is necessarily used by the police, but they like to have it close just in case.
I asked the guide, and apparently the only time he’d seen this weapon was in the same place as me. When the Joker took out the Batwing… )
Thankfully, I think the ammunition museum is far, far away from the arms gallery.
Lynette, wondering just how she can fit this into her daypack.
I asked, apparently it shoots lots of bullets into a crowd. I’m not sure he meant that.
They definitely had a lot of guns.
The view of Monserrate from the top of the Police museum.
Apparently, the President’s house. Looks more like an office block!
The Cathedral and Church Sagrida in Plaza Bolivar.
Simon Bolivar, a revolutionary figure that brought Gran Columbia its indepenance. Allegedly, this is the first statue of him created.
Capatilio Nacional, an impressive building presiding over Plaza Bolivar.
At the top of Monserrate mountain, who do we find? Danesh! The world truly is a small place.
We took the cable car up to the top to catch the sunset.
This storm cloud was gathering strength to the right, it came nowhere close but I was pleased to get this shot of lightning, however small!
Difficult to get the right light for a couple shot!
I feel some photoshop work coming on when it comes time to print… )
Unfortunately the clouds prevented the sun setting the sky ablaze, but as the lights of Bogota were switched on the city itself came alive.
The red lights of this area, I assume the financial district, gave it an otherworldy glow.
If only to be a city planner… nothing like spelling out your name in lights! Its possible that Bogota was designed by Elvis… if you squint.
Definitely Elvis. Won’t hear anything more on the matter.
That glow really started to look quite impressive! This is with a 5 second shutter speed to get the light trails.
Finally, an odd looking pond with fairy lights and a tribal stone head to finish off our trip to the summit of Monserrate.
Hello guys! Looks like you are having a great time – and I am very impressed with the website….I almost feel like I am travelling with you!
I hope your legs getting better Steve…..look after yourselves!
Mate, the leg is fighting back! I spent an entire day without crutches!! Hope all is well back in Reading, and that work is a pleasure to arrive to every day! )
This is a vivid example of irrational decision and policy making.The killing of Pablo Escobar is irrelevant to the flow of illegal drugs;the use and abuse of illegal mood altering chemicals started and will end at the customer level.Illegal drugs exist because there is a demand for it.
The production of Illegal drugs and the emergence of drug dealers would not be possible without a demand for them.
Therefore,any genuine eradication of illegal drug problem should start at the demand side of the equation.
Lynette and I at the main square in Zipaquira.
At the entrance we waited for the included English speaking guide, from right to left; Bram, Danesh, Brad, Piers, John, Lynette and Jean-C;aire.
Happy smiling faces surrounded by solid salt. If only somebody had brought some tequila and lemon!
You can gauge the scale of this room from the tiny size of the people below the cross.
More sandstone carvings, representing the birth of Jesus.
Simon Bolivar, a revolutionary figure that brought Gran Columbia its indepenance. Allegedly, this is the first statue of him created.
Some of Pablo Escobar’s many guns. He purchased the papers for every one of the little guns in the middle that was manufactured; if he found somebody using one he would kill them.
Lynette, wondering just how she can fit this into her daypack.
I feel some photoshop work coming on when it comes time to print… 
)
Definitely Elvis. Won’t hear anything more on the matter.
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Hello guys! Looks like you are having a great time – and I am very impressed with the website….I almost feel like I am travelling with you!
I hope your legs getting better Steve…..look after yourselves!
Mate, the leg is fighting back! I spent an entire day without crutches!! Hope all is well back in Reading, and that work is a pleasure to arrive to every day!
)
This is a vivid example of irrational decision and policy making.The killing of Pablo Escobar is irrelevant to the flow of illegal drugs;the use and abuse of illegal mood altering chemicals started and will end at the customer level.Illegal drugs exist because there is a demand for it.
The production of Illegal drugs and the emergence of drug dealers would not be possible without a demand for them.
Therefore,any genuine eradication of illegal drug problem should start at the demand side of the equation.