Here we are! Quilotoa crater!11-Jul-2009 17:16, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 28.0mm, ISO 400
The Quilotoa Circuit is a 200km loop that runs through beautiful landscapes and rural villages South of Quito. Having spent several days in the smog filled capital we were looking forward to breaking away from the bustle and seeing perhaps a more traditional slice of Ecuadorian life. The different sections can be tackled by bike, bus or on foot. We planned to squeeze the whole thing into only three days as time was tight, and on Friday morning set off for Latacunga, our first stop.
The gorge didn’t seem to care, and merrily cut off into the distance.
The gorge didn’t seem to care, and merrily cut off into the distance.11-Jul-2009 21:07, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
The Quilotoa Circuit starts in Latacunga, heads west to Pujili (15km and apparently a great downhill bike run), then to Zumbahua. From Zumbahua you head to the famous Quilotoa crater and then onwards to Chugchilan. Chugchilan, Sigchos and Isinlivia are three villages very close to each other, and you then travel to Saquisili before getting back to Latacunga. While you can actually travel the whole thing in one day by bus apparently, our plan was;
Day one, Friday: Bus from Quito to Latacunga, dump one backpack in a hostel and then bus direct to Zumbahua.
Day two, Saturday: Check out the renowned Zimbahua market in the morning, get a lift to Quilotoa circuit for lunch and then hike to Chugchilan in the afternoon.
Day three, Sunday: Hike between the three villages close to each other, and then bus direct from Isinlivia to Latacunga, where we would stay before heading off to Baños on the Monday.
Day One, Friday – Getting to Zumbahua
And after a morse code sleep of a night, Saturday morning and Zumbahua market arrived!
And after a morse code sleep of a night, Saturday morning and Zumbahua market arrived!11-Jul-2009 14:06, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 45.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
This went pretty well according to plan! Kinara Hostel (where we were staying in Quito) is between the old and new centres of Quito, and a taxi cost us $5 from there to the new South Terminal. This had only opened two days previously, and nobody had a clue where it was or what was going on. It is also miles away from the centre, and $5 was good value for the taxi. From here we got a 2hr bus to Latacunga that cost $1.50 each, and in Latacunga we dumped our largest back pack in Hostel Amazonas. We planned to stay here on the way back for one night, it was only $4 a room, but were a bit concerned it acted suspiciously like a brothel.
For $5 four of us hopped in an open topped truck towards Quilotoa crater.
For $5 four of us hopped in an open topped truck towards Quilotoa crater.11-Jul-2009 16:48, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 14.0, 35.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 400
The bus from Latacunga to Zumbahua was pretty smooth with more astounding views. We were packed in more than a baked bean tin, and near the end I squeezed into the front next to Lynette and was slightly alarmed when the driver offered to let me have a go at the steering wheel. Possibly more alarmingly I was just about to give it a go, when at “Listo?” Lynette reminded me that I’d be in half control of a jam packed bus navigating some exceptionally twisty roads with very distacting views… so thankfully I didn’t take him up on his offer! It was a shame we had to rush through rather than bike the first part, but we needed to hit the market for Saturday morning. On arrival we immediately ditched our plan to stay in the guidebook recommended Hostal Richard, which looked less than half finished, and stayed in the much better Hostal Comodor for $5 pp with a bit of bargaining. It seemed to be completely run by a lovely ten year old girl called Sandra, but then all the young women we’ve met in rural Ecuador seem to be wise beyond their years. Bags dumped, we found one of the few open bar/restaurants and chilled out with a few beers and some Almuerzos (basically a Menu del Dia). We were happily being charged very reasonable rates until a slightly louder French couple joined us and all the prices suddenly went up. I don’t think the locals appreciated the change in atmosphere…
Day Two, Saturday – Zumbahua Market and the Quilotoa Hike
Not a bad view to savour while being served an Ecuador fry up…
Not a bad view to savour while being served an Ecuador fry up…11-Jul-2009 15:21, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 11.0, 28.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
The next morning we woke up bright and early; not a lot of choice as the market started in full swing from around 5am and our room overlooked it. Only a small corner was devoted to tourist purchases which was great and quite an eye opener. They love their bananas, and had lots of random bits and bobs all over the place that you can see in the photos below. As per the captions, Angela I apologise for the gratuitous animal preparation that went on all over the place. Having stocked up on warmer gear for the next few weeks, and a rather awesome hat for myself, we hooked up with yet another couple and bargained ourselves a pickup truck to Quilotoa crater, the main attraction of the circuit. We asked him to pull down the tarpaulin roof so we could better appreciate the surroundings, it also meant we could literally taste it as the hot, dusty day meant the grit upheaval ended up mostly in our mouths.
The left side of the crater…11-Jul-2009 17:40, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
On arrival we paid our $2 entry and took the short walk to the rim, via an agua purchase and accidentally mystifying a poor girl with a totally misunderstood card trick. The crater itself is as immense as the pictures. The water filled caldera is the westernmost volcano in the Ecuadorian Andes and was formed by its collapse in a catastrophic eruption 800 years ago, which produced flows and lahars that reached the Pacific ocean. The water is a deep blue and green due to the minerals it has absorbed; we’re intrigued to know if there are any fish in there and if so how they got there!
Señora Wayne was later found to be called Maria, and a lovely lady with crazy teeth.
Señora Wayne was later found to be called Maria, and a lovely lady with crazy teeth.11-Jul-2009 19:05, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 38.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
We followed the guide book’s brief instructions on how to navigate the rim and start the hike to Chugchilan religiously. Unfortunately, those very instructions are a bit crap and we managed to get lost three times, each error resulting in a bracing hike back to the top again to try a bit further round. We turned down the offer of local guides on the way round several times until we met Señora Wayne with crazy gold and jade teeth, who pointed us in the right way twice before pretty much dragging us in the right direction to make sure we made it out alive. $2 well invested!
Now THAT’s a gorge. Although mysteriously lacking a convenient bridge.
Now THAT’s a gorge. Although mysteriously lacking a convenient bridge.11-Jul-2009 20:47, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
The stamina testing hike itself was great, an excellent mix of incredible views and varied terrain. Half way you travel through the small village of Guayama, which looks as though it has only just been built. We stopped for lunch (two bread rolls, a small bar of chocolate and a shared diet coke) and looked out into the distance where we could see Chugchilan. With glee we noted it must only be an hour or so from here, it looks so close. Forgetting the ominous gorge, we reasoned there must be a convenient bridge which would offer a dramatic panorama to bring a smile to our faces. Not so – the gorge is a very real and deep thing, and you’ve got to go all the way down before coming all the way back up again. Still, it managed to offer the dramatic panoramas we’d been looking for!
We made our way down, we’re currently about half way from the top where we started.
We made our way down, we’re currently about half way from the top where we started.11-Jul-2009 21:11, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
Five hours from Quilotoa we traipsed into Chugchilan with our thighs about to melt and pulled up at Cloud Forest Hostel ($10 pp, includes dinner and breakfast). We’d managed to make the last half hour pretty quickly, motivated by the group that we passed taking the (flatter but longer) road route and the chance they might steal the last available rooms in our chosen hostel. Some fantastically amazing hot showers later we chatted with some fellow travellers over the included dinner and started to think about day three. Which is where it went a little Pete Tong, as we’d planned on hiking the last three villages and getting a bus back to Latacunga; except it was Sunday and there were no buses from the last village. So day three ended up a bit shorter…
Day Three, Sunday – Bus back to Latacunga and then on to Baños!
Here we are! Quilotoa crater!11-Jul-2009 17:16, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 28.0mm, ISO 400
Seriously, that was our revised plan! Cut it short and head on through Ecuador! But there are plenty of other options to take should you find yourself in the same position. Go horse trekking and visit the cheese factory, find some of the only decent cheese in South America! Hike the three villages, but get a bus back to Chugchilan and get another bus from there. Go visit some more excellent markets that are in the area. Go climbing even! But, for us we are now getting very aware of the time we have left and needed to press on. Baños awaits!
PS – I ate my first barbequed Guinea Pig of South America in Chugchilan. Tastes good, not much meat. Funny teeth.
We arrived in Zumbahua late on Friday, staying in a hostel overlooking the empty square before the market.10-Jul-2009 23:25, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
And after a morse code sleep of a night, Saturday morning and Zumbahua market arrived!11-Jul-2009 14:06, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 45.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
With many, many bananas. Including some of different colours, apparently the red ones are quite tasty!11-Jul-2009 14:46, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
Virtually all of the women in rural towns wear the obligatory felt hat with varyingly ornateness of shawl.11-Jul-2009 14:50, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 11.0, 105.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 400
We didn’t get one for ourselves, but there were many felt hats available!11-Jul-2009 14:07, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 68.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
Angela, in advance I apologise for the next few photos. Just click through quickly. But just so you know, in Ecuador there are a wide variety of limbs available for your perusal.11-Jul-2009 14:55, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 50.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
Awwww! Isn’t that cute! You can buy a sheep here! (Angela, look away now)11-Jul-2009 14:57, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 50.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
Oh bugger. No sheep left. However, just round the corner are a wide variety of slow cooked mutton delicasies available for breakfast.11-Jul-2009 14:57, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 13.0, 50.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
The Llamas are considered a cut above (sorry) and aren’t normally for eating. In fact, you can buy a baby one for $20 should you need it.11-Jul-2009 15:00, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 11.0, 90.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 400
This auctioneer was augmented by speakers throughout the market, you couldn’t get away from him. I don’t think he paused for breath from 5am.11-Jul-2009 15:02, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 63.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
Each of these ladies brought a variety of herbs, spices and flowers available for purchase with them.11-Jul-2009 15:03, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 30.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
Good bye to Zumbahua market, you made us buy much more woollen goods than we ever thought we needed.11-Jul-2009 16:21, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 13.0, 28.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
For $5 four of us hopped in an open topped truck towards Quilotoa crater.11-Jul-2009 16:48, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 14.0, 35.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 400
Oh, and I bought a hat. I think it is immensely cool and will be wearing it in lots more photos now, even if I wasn’t wearing it before I saw the camera.11-Jul-2009 16:47, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 11.0, 28.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
The girls we met are incredible and seem wise beyond their years. The hostel we stayed at in Zumbahua seemed to be run by a ten year old called Sandra!11-Jul-2009 16:55, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 105.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 400
This one’s a card shark and even younger! Although I think my magic trick went a little over her head. And her dad’s.11-Jul-2009 17:06, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 38.0mm, 0.067 sec, ISO 400
Waaay off in the distance is Chugchilan, our destination before the sun goes to sleep.11-Jul-2009 18:20, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 105.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
A moment of indecision on which path to take, and Señora Wayne popped out of nowhere.11-Jul-2009 18:47, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 93.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
Señora Wayne prowls Quilotoa crater, offering her scouting services to wayward travellers in exchange for small change.11-Jul-2009 18:52, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 105.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
On the basis that every time we ventured a bit further away we made the wrong fork decision, Señora Wayne was a worthwhile investment.11-Jul-2009 18:55, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 11.0, 28.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
Señora Wayne was later found to be called Maria, and a lovely lady with crazy teeth.11-Jul-2009 19:05, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 38.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
Guayama village is a slightly less than midway stop; and it looks as though they’ve only just started building it.11-Jul-2009 20:13, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 13.0, 28.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
Look! Chugchilan! There in the distance over the gorge! Surely there’s a convenient bridge somewhere…11-Jul-2009 20:32, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
That’s not a bridge… but then it only spanned a small tributary of the main gorge.11-Jul-2009 20:40, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 50.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400
We made our way down, we’re currently about half way from the top where we started.11-Jul-2009 21:11, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
Confusingly, the inviting but spindly log bridge is being contradicted by a nameless sign.11-Jul-2009 21:17, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 28.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400
We’ll give it a go anyway! Lynette voted for the long jump rather than trust the logs.11-Jul-2009 21:19, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 40.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400
Not so many photos on the way up the other side, too tired, but we did find the wicked witch’s house.11-Jul-2009 21:40, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
Love the hat Steve ;o) Well passed my bike test yesterday, picking the bike up next weekend, thanks for the message Lynette, I’ll be careful for sure, I wanna see you guys in Oct. Everything looks amazing what you are doing, you’re giving me idea’s for future hols….. Keep enjoying yourselves and speak soon x
The gorge didn’t seem to care, and merrily cut off into the distance.
And after a morse code sleep of a night, Saturday morning and Zumbahua market arrived!
For $5 four of us hopped in an open topped truck towards Quilotoa crater.
Not a bad view to savour while being served an Ecuador fry up…
The left side of the crater…
Señora Wayne was later found to be called Maria, and a lovely lady with crazy teeth.
Now THAT’s a gorge. Although mysteriously lacking a convenient bridge.
We made our way down, we’re currently about half way from the top where we started.
![[Facebook]](http://mace.me.uk/mrandmrs/wp-content/plugins/bookmarkify/facebook.png)
![[MySpace]](http://mace.me.uk/mrandmrs/wp-content/plugins/bookmarkify/myspace.png)
![[StumbleUpon]](http://mace.me.uk/mrandmrs/wp-content/plugins/bookmarkify/stumbleupon.png)
![[Email]](http://mace.me.uk/mrandmrs/wp-content/plugins/bookmarkify/email.png)
Love the hat Steve ;o) Well passed my bike test yesterday, picking the bike up next weekend, thanks for the message Lynette, I’ll be careful for sure, I wanna see you guys in Oct. Everything looks amazing what you are doing, you’re giving me idea’s for future hols….. Keep enjoying yourselves and speak soon x