Introduction: Colombia is the 26th largest country in the world and bigger than France and Spain put together. Its history of drugs and violence has also put off many travellers (and nearly us), but on travelling through this amazing country it has become our favourite so far in South America. Named after Christopher Colombus, even though he’s never set a foot there, in the last few years it has increasingly opened to tourism and allowed backpackers to fully appreciate this great country.
| Local name: | Republic of Colombia | Flag: | ![]() |
|---|---|---|---|
| Population: | 45,644,023 | Life expectancy: | 72.8 |
| Size: | 401,042 sq mi | Currency: | Colombian Peso |
| Capital: | Bogotá | Capital population: | 7,594,000 |
| Language: | Spanish | ||
| Religion: | Roman Catholic 90% | ||
When we went:12th June to 6th July 2009
Where we went:Flew into Bogota, took a bus to San Gil, then to Taganga (via Santa Marta). Took another bus to Cartagena, then flew back to Bogota to take a bus straight to San Agustin. Finally took a bus to Popayan to go straight to Ipiales ready for the border crossing.
Where we stayed:
- Cranky Croc in Bogota – Our first hostel in Colombia and bang in the middle of La Candelaria, when we arrived it was jam packed with people and had a real buzz; thankfully the majority were just meeting up to head out as needed to chill a bit but a great place to socialise. COP$45,000 for double with shared bathroom. Great atmosphere, chill out room, big kitchen and hang out area. Andy the owner is a good guy, would stay again. Good wireless internet.
- Hostel Sue in Bogota – Our previous hostel was so popular when we decided to stay longer in Bogota there was no room. These were round the corner and available with a good room. Good hang out area, TV room but small kitchen. It does have a ping pong table though! COP$45,000 for a double room with shared bath, many live here on extended stays so the standard of Spanish is high! Has wireless internet but with limited range.
- Santander Aleman in San Gil – Unfortunately our preference, the one and only Macondo hostel run by Shaun, was full so we stayed in the overspill a few doors down. A decent enough hostel but no wireless was a big minus. Fairly sociable and great breakfast (not included). COP$38,000 for the double room with shared bathroom – you’ll end up spending most of your time at Macondo even if you’re staying here!
- Casa de Felipe in Taganga – Again a must stay when you are in Taganga; it has a fantastic and large patio area with hammocks that overlooks Taganga and is very popular. Also one of the best restaurants in town, for COP$16,000 you can get a fillet steak that melts in your mouth; you don’t have to stay there to enjoy. Good wireless, COP$50,000 for a double with private bathroom breakfast is available but extra.
- Casa Holanda in Taganga – A fairly new hostel and very clean with pretty good wireless; this is a good choice if you’re staying in Taganga. COP$50,000 for a double room with private bathroom with breakfast included – they do happy hour cocktails but they’re watered down so don’t get too excited.
- Hostal Pelikan in Taganga – Been around for a while, they’re currently renovating/extending it. Friendly and with wireless, it has a good patio/balcony (not sun facing) to watch Taganga go by. We paid COP$25,000 for a double with shared bathroom, as the room hadn’t finished being built!
- Hostal Real in Cartagena – Unfortunately we didn’t really enjoy our stay here; no ventilation and too hot in the rooms, bin in the bathroom not changed for three days and only had a twin available when we’d booked in advance (COP$40,000 double with bath). Not recommended, stay at Media Luna instead; it looked great!
- Casa de Francois in San Agustin – A great character hostel in the hills of San Agustin. Francois is an excellent host who knows the area, the hostel itself is a small farm you can buy produce from. Bit of a hike from the town (15 Colombian minutes) although he’ll pick you up in his new(!) van. Definitely recommended, COP$35,000 for a double with semi-private bathroom.
- Hotel Belmonte in Ipiales – We stayed here for one reason only; its basic, on the border and cheap. It ticks all these boxes admirably, plus they are friendly and it has a good location. COP$18,000 for a double with shared bath.
Things we saw: Underwater treasures that to us diving newbies got us hooked. Pablo Escobar’s guns. Lots of gold. An immensely impressive Salt Cathedral.
Things we did: Visited some awesome museums in Bogota – don’t listen to those who don’t like Bogota! Apparently you can try on a bullet proof jacket and get shot near the police museum. Missed that. Saw the sunset from the top of Monserrate. Went paragliding in San Gil. Did an excellent PADI Open Water course in Taganga. Played Citadels, a great card game. Met some good people. Saw too many stone heads. Went horse riding. Drank beautiful banana and Oreo smoothies.
The Food: Started enjoying Menu del Dia; a cheap and usually tasy two course meal. Still no excellent indiginous food to speak of though!
The Drink: More beer… Beer is about COP$1000-1,500 (~50p) in shops, and COP$2-3,000 (~£1) in bars/hostels.
Top five things to remember:Paragliding over Colombian countryside. Fantastic scenery and beautiful everywhere, worth taking buses in the day. The incredible Salt Cathedral, bar the unnecessary embellishment. Seeing ten lobsters chilling on two shelves, 20m down. Attempting to offload my crutches with animated dancing at Bogota bus station.
The not so good things: Not a lot, we loved Colombia! Only that we didn’t have enough time to visit Medillin and the Coffee District. Plus that my knee wasn’t up to the fabled Lost City trek or visiting Tayrona National Park.
Useful links:
- Colombian Flight Comparison site
- Hosteltrail - Good site for finding hostels in Colombia.
Blog posts:
- Gallery: Museo del Oro & Botero in Bogota
- Gallery: Zipaquirá’s Salt Cathedral, Pablo Escobar and Monserrate in Bogota all in one day!
- Gallery: Paragliding in San Gil and Meandering in Barachi!
- Gallery: One week with PADI & Paddys in Taganga!
- Gallery: Mud and Magic in Cartagena, Colombia!
- Gallery: Crossing the Colombian border in Ipiales and Las Lajas Cathedral



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