 Beaming smiles, a hot shower is just around the corner, with the layered vista of Colca Canyon behind.06-Aug-2009 17:58, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400 |
After a horrendous night bus we arrived early in Arequipa, known as the second city of Peru, and quickly found a beautiful, clean, safe city that was a pleasure to walk around. Our main reason for hitting the town was to make a side visit to Colca Canyon, ever so nearly the deepest in the world (beaten by only 163m by its neighbour), twice as deep as the Grand Canyon, and famous for viewing one of the most majestic birds of prey, the Condor. But would our bus antics start to get any smoother? Would we see any Condors? Would we finally get a decent hot shower?
 On to the beautiful city of Arequipa, often called the second city of Peru.
On to the beautiful city of Arequipa, often called the second city of Peru.04-Aug-2009 16:52, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 45.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400 |
We arrived bright and early in our pre-booked hostel, Arequipa Backpacker’s Hostel. Plus points; a friendly hostel with excellent information on the area and staff that work hard. Minus points; cold showers, no Wi-Fi, and not cheap at 53 soles for a double with shared bath but it does include a meagre continental breakfast. We did quickly check a friend’s recommendation of Like Home Bed and Breakfast, which was 36 soles with breakfast, Wi Fi and a decent roof terrace, but they couldn’t guarantee space and since we only needed the one night we decided to stay put and start exploring the city.
 The central Plaza de Armas is absolutely wonderful, and possibly even more impressive at night.
The central Plaza de Armas is absolutely wonderful, and possibly even more impressive at night.04-Aug-2009 17:03, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400 |
We started with breakfast, and after three false starts (all recommended, all closed), we happened across Casa Verde cafe (Jerusalen 406) which serves pretty good food for an excellent price. Plus, as its run by a charity that attempts to give street kids a better life you can feel good all over and not just in your rapidly filling stomach. Having eaten, we grabbed showers at the hostel and wandered through the beautiful Plaza de Armas on the way to the famous Siena Santa Catalina Monastery, one of the many attempts by the Spaniards to bring Catholicism to the native masses. Built in the 16th century, the nuns were completely segregated from the rest of the city and only communicated through wooden grills.
 A well in the main kitchen, now dried up and full of coins.
A well in the main kitchen, now dried up and full of coins.04-Aug-2009 20:14, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 1.6 sec, ISO 400 |
After 391 years of isolation, in 1970 they decided on a way to preserve their buildings, way of life, and generate cold hard cash and employed the services of Promociones Turisticas del Sur SA. Combined with sponsorship including local banks and large breweries (!) they decided to open the monastery to the masses and have created a fairly successful tourist attraction. With well spoken guides available, decent English translations, and a route that lasts a couple of hours through the five hectares of grounds they have done well, but it is quite expensive at 35 soles per person, plus 20 soles if you want a guide. It had been recommended highly by others we’d met, which was a great shame as our high expectations were dashed fairy swiftly. There are only so many nun’s bedrooms and kitchens you can take a look at, and yet again after the beautiful Cartagena the famed colonial architecture only registered a tremor on our interest scale.
 Lynette in one of the many kitchens, we’re not sure they were that great at cooking, most of them seemed to be completely burnt out in a chip pan accident.
Lynette in one of the many kitchens, we're not sure they were that great at cooking, most of them seemed to be completely burnt out in a chip pan accident.04-Aug-2009 19:40, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.4 sec, ISO 400 |
We moved swiftly on and after some lunch and a brief try of the local Queso Helado (cheese ice cream, very evident why it remains a local delicacy) we decided to enjoy a good old fashioned Vanilla & Chocolate cone in the Plaza de Armas and gently snoozed in the sun. Later that evening we went for dinner with some people we’d met in the Hostel at Tacos & Tequila, a fantastic and highly recommended Mexican restaurant near the plaza. For 10 soles you can have three tortillas, Mexican rice, guacamole, salsa and two different sides. Beer and Tequila is extra. If you’re going to Arequipa, you have to eat here; we did both nights we could! After a few more beers and what felt like a very long day, our heads hit the pillow and we went to sleep dreaming of Rum & Yoghurt (a strange concoction that a German recommended to us at dinner. Verdict to come).
 My gorgeous wife, with the volcano El Misti in the background.
My gorgeous wife, with the volcano El Misti in the background.04-Aug-2009 20:18, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 35.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400 |
We started the next day with a quick visit to the Ice Maiden Juanita, who is about five hundred years old and lives in a freezer. Juanita was discovered on the top of the dormant 6,288m volcano Mount Ampato near Arequipa, and is one of many children sacrificed as gifts to the mountain gods by ancient Incans. What makes Juanita so important is that soon after her death, an avalanche of snow preserved her body in excellent condition on both the interior and the exterior and offered huge insight into Incan tradition. Insights such as being able to analyse the contents of her stomach to verify that she was marched to the top of Ampato of her head on Coca leaves, given a very potent alcoholic drink to help induce a trance like state before being knocked over the head unconscious and left for dead. What a hangover! She was considered one of the lucky privileged to have this honour, and was also unique in her status in society evident by her noble attire and clothing. Times magazine considered Juanita one of the top ten recent archaeological finds in recent history in 1995.
 Randomly a herd of chanting joggers went through the streets, no idea why.
Randomly a herd of chanting joggers went through the streets, no idea why.04-Aug-2009 18:46, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 11.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400 |
Juanita is kept at the Andean Sanctuaries Museum, entry 11 soles each, and includes a short video and excellent English speaking guide (tips recommended) who will show you the ancient clothing, ceramics and other offerings that have been found both with Juanita and other sacrifices to the gods over the years. The children were always sacrificed in pairs, a boy and a girl, and it was fascinating to think they all walked to their deaths with the confidence of privilege, with sandals, shawls and Coca their only comfort. Now it takes scientists and archaeologists high grade mountaineering equipment, oxygen tanks, and the latest technology to decipher the past – on their return to where they first found Juanita for the excavation they were dismayed to find she had fled in a recent mountain slide. In order to find her they flung a boulder in the direction they guessed she had gone and followed it down to reveal her hiding place. Definitely a recommended visit.
 Colca Canyon itself, with excellent examples of the terraced agriculture that the Andes are famous for.
Colca Canyon itself, with excellent examples of the terraced agriculture that the Andes are famous for.07-Aug-2009 16:22, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 38.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400 |
After the museum we met with Lee & Chloe (just!) who we’d planned to visit Colca Canyon with. Colca Canyon is the second deepest canyon in the world at over 3km, twice as deep as the Grand Canyon, only beaten by its close neighbour by 163m. Admittedly, it is not as impressive as the Grand Canyon and its steep sides as the drop is more gradual and one side is higher than the other. Still, the views were alleged to be amazing and also offer the chance to see the Condors and their 3m wing spans rise on the morning thermals. Greetings completed, we took a bus to the Terminal Terrestre and headed to Cabanaconde (15 soles each) for our trek. There are many different ways to explore the canyon including trips to Chavey followed by two or three day hikes to the many villages that surround the canyon – most start with a 4am bus from Arequipa. We took it relatively easy and headed straight for the village in its heart for a short trek around the surrounding area. We arrived late in the day and walked into our chosen hostel, Pachamama, to find it absolutely rammed and all the residents craning their necks around like a scene from An American Werewolf in London to find our four blank faces jammed in the doorway with about 200 litres of pack between us.
 Most rural Peruvians are more than shy about having their photo taken, this guy was more than happy to pose. I swapped him the current time for his troubles.
Most rural Peruvians are more than shy about having their photo taken, this guy was more than happy to pose. I swapped him the current time for his troubles.06-Aug-2009 14:43, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400 |
Thankfully, they still had space – in the latest addition to their Cabanacondo empire Pachamama Three! It is a popular place; 12 soles per person offers a bed for the night as well as a breakfast including pancakes and scrambled eggs – excellent value! We headed to a local restaurant round the corner for a couple of beers before our early start the next day. We woke with the intention of eating breakfast and heading back out for 7am with a leisurely walk to Mirador de Tapay; a slightly closer and less crowded spot to view the rising Condors at 9-10am. Unfortunately (or expectedly to those who know us) we didn’t all manage to be properly ready until about 8am – I blame the very filling but Peruvian timed breakfast. Which meant that we had about 90 minutes to sprint a 2.5 hour walk from the village to Mirador de Tapay, thankfully we’d stocked up on Coca leaf tea and were ready for the suddenly punishing hike in the surprisingly hot morning sun.
 Lee and I in the obligatory triumphant pose in front of 6km high mountains.
Lee and I in the obligatory triumphant pose in front of 6km high mountains.06-Aug-2009 15:26, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400 |
Buckets of sweat, many dodged donkeys, stunningly motion blurred views and ninety minutes later, we arrived surprisingly at our destination just in time for a magnificent Condor to rise from the canyon depths. Which made the gruelling morning suddenly seem worthwhile; until that point it wasn’t clear we’d all make it! A chilled out hour appreciating the four or five Condors we managed to spot ensued, alongside less beautiful examinations of the horrific blisters on Lee’s foot. By the end we’d convinced ourselves that with the eight eyes between us, and the double vision from the sheen of sweat that covered our eyeballs, we’d actually seen more like eighty of the impressively spanned birds and one of them even carried off a small Frenchman. Not bad for a morning’s work.
 A cactus edged wall helped win this particular Peruvian a “stone perimeter of the year” award.
A cactus edged wall helped win this particular Peruvian a “stone perimeter of the year” award.06-Aug-2009 17:08, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400 |
The walk back was thankfully a lot more sedate, and with time on our side we had the opportunity to appreciate the views that surrounded us and the animals that were either skiving from a hard day’s work or blissfully free in the open air. Very invigorating; but like all high altitude areas in the Andes exceptionally hot during the day! We arrived back in the village to find some good news and some bad; the bad being that the 2pm bus we’d planned to take back to Arequipa was fully booked (we didn’t even know you could book) so we were stuck for the day. The good news was that the restaurant had some more Alpaca (a type of Llama famed for its fine wool) in which went down a treat with some red wine sauce for only 13 soles. So only slightly grudgingly, I called our bus company and managed in Spanglish to move the night bus we had booked to Cusco to one night later, booked the morning bus to Arequipa and had a siesta to get over the trauma. Lesson learned; if you are in Cabanacondo then book your bus back to Arequipa in advance!
 On the way out we passed Cruz del Condor, the more visited mirador for viewing the Condors on their thermals in the morning.
On the way out we passed Cruz del Condor, the more visited mirador for viewing the Condors on their thermals in the morning.07-Aug-2009 16:22, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 102.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400 |
On our return the next day to the Terminal Terrestre I ventured over to the Cial office to confirm they had changed our bus to that night. They promptly denied all knowledge, said the woman I had spoken to was not working that day and the manager wouldn’t be in till later. Short of it being we’d need to buy our 60 soles per person tickets all over again; but they were now 70 soles as it was a Friday. As the air slowly turned blue I asked what time the manager was going to turn up and asked them to keep two seats reserved in the meantime. We then disappeared back to the city centre for a Mexican with Lee & Chloe before venturing back with carefully crafted Spanish phrases that only mentioned the pending manager’s ancestry once or twice. Only to find that actually he wasn’t there, and he also wouldn’t be turning up till the next day. As a vague compromise, we managed to purchase two replacement tickets to Cusco at the reduced price of 50 soles each and hung around for our night bus (8pm with Cial) – with the small consolation that the new Terminal Terrestre at Arequipa has open WiFi so we could check our emails.
 Seemingly wild horses ran across the plain, notably disappointed we weren’t carrying apples or cubes of sugar.
Seemingly wild horses ran across the plain, notably disappointed we weren't carrying apples or cubes of sugar.06-Aug-2009 17:45, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 65.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400 |
So, while the last thirty six hours or so in Arequipa certainly had its moments, with a bit more advanced planning the whole escapade would have run far more smoothly and even so it certainly did not blight our experience of this beautiful city and its surroundings. It’s on the route from Nasca to Cusco, adds only a couple of days, and apparently you can even get a day bus from Arequipa to Cusco for 15 soles. Done – on to the home of the Incas!
PS, Pachamama had hot showers. 
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On to the beautiful city of Arequipa, often called the second city of Peru.04-Aug-2009 16:52, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 45.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400 |
The central Plaza de Armas is absolutely wonderful, and possibly even more impressive at night.04-Aug-2009 17:03, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400 |
Randomly a herd of chanting joggers went through the streets, no idea why.04-Aug-2009 18:46, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 11.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400 |
One of the many beautiful churches in Arequipa, which are easy to appreciate in this clean and warm (by day) city.04-Aug-2009 18:53, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400 |
The opening shot of the Siena Santa Catalina Monastery with buildings date from the 16th to 19th century. Through these wooden grills the nuns communicated with the outside world.04-Aug-2009 19:23, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 1 sec, ISO 400 |
A life size model of The Last Supper. The Mary Magdelan model was away being cleaned.04-Aug-2009 19:25, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 35.0mm, 0.5 sec, ISO 400 |
The architect called the monastery a “Lesson in Architecture” and it is true that the five hectares it covers are gorgeously created.04-Aug-2009 19:28, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400 |
Inside one of the many churches within the monastery.04-Aug-2009 19:29, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.3 sec, ISO 400 |
This creepy looking nun still guards her bedroom. We think the reason for the seeming creepiness is you can't tell which way she is facing!04-Aug-2009 19:31, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.167 sec, ISO 400 |
The hundreds of paintings and murals distributed throughout are all being restored but represent excellent work and no doubt are of incredible interest to the right scholar.04-Aug-2009 19:32, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 70.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 400 |
One of the more plain beds, which is what we expected of a nun having given up all of her worldly possessions.04-Aug-2009 19:34, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.25 sec, ISO 400 |
Some rooms were more resplendent than others, and there certainly were many.04-Aug-2009 19:34, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 1 sec, ISO 400 |
In here were many paintings of past nuns, they all looked remarkeably similar.04-Aug-2009 19:35, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.167 sec, ISO 400 |
The Orange Cloister, named inventively after the orange trees that were planted there.04-Aug-2009 19:35, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400 |
The nun's day starts at 5am, when daily tasks and prayers are the first port of call.04-Aug-2009 19:39, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.25 sec, ISO 400 |
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Lynette in one of the many kitchens, we're not sure they were that great at cooking, most of them seemed to be completely burnt out in a chip pan accident.04-Aug-2009 19:40, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.4 sec, ISO 400 |
John, this one is for you! Thought you might appreciate the teapots…04-Aug-2009 19:43, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 35.0mm, 0.8 sec, ISO 400 |
A very ornate piece of craftmanship that would outshine any Christmas tree.04-Aug-2009 19:44, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.5 sec, ISO 400 |
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Wow….puts my 3 peaks challenge into perspective!
Hope all is well.
Steve! Good to see you are able to get about now, and what a stunning place to get about. The equines looked in far better condition than the ones earlier in your trip and the views look breathtaking.