Lynette and I in front of our death buggy that careered over the dunes with a complete disregard for human life.01-Aug-2009 22:40, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
After our amazing morning checking out sea lions and bird poo in Isla Ballestas, we were heading out to a fabled oasis in the middle of the desert, Huacachina. This was our mini weekend break, after which we would be flying over one of the great South American traveller’s tick boxes, the Nazca lines. In Huacachina we’d been looking forward to trying sand boarding without injuring yet another body part, and in Nazca attempting to keep our stomachs under control while being thrown around in a tiny Cessna. Would we succeed in both?!
Note: 1 GBP = ~5 Peruvian Soles at time of writing.
He’d also hilariously been taught to screech ‘F@£# off!’ by the gardeners.
He’d also hilariously been taught to screech ‘F@£# off!’ by the gardeners.01-Aug-2009 17:49, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 65.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 100
After a bus from Pisco (again from the Pan American highway) to Ica (1hr, 4 soles) and then a 5 soles taxi to Huacachina, we checked into our accommodation treat for Peru. El Huacachinero is the most expensive hostel and recommended in Huacachina (110 soles for a double with bath and breakfast, no internet) and a place we were looking forward to spoiling ourselves in. However, high expectations always end in disaster and we ended up with a pretty poor continental breakfast, towels that didn’t turn up until after an hour of nagging, and a bus depot virtually under our window. On the silver side, we know now that expensive hotels don’t necessarily translate into the tranquillity you’re looking for! That’ll help keep the budget in check then… After one night we moved into Hostel Salvatierra (40 soles for a double with bath no breakfast or Wi-fi) for the remaining two, and certainly felt we were getting more value for our money.
I apologise for the large number of desert shots, but it really was a beautifully tranquil place.
I apologise for the large number of desert shots, but it really was a beautifully tranquil place.01-Aug-2009 22:35, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 14.0, 28.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
On arrival in Huacachina we were exceptionally pleased to find glorious sunshine, a beautiful lagoon surrounded by friendly and safe hostels and bars, all fenced in by immense sand dunes that made sure the outside world had no chance of getting in. In short, an excellent place to chill out for a few days so we settled down to a waterfront beer and felt pretty smug. Within minutes we met Chris who then became an adopted travel buddy for the rest of our time in this mini paradise. After a few beers and a terrible pizza (tasted like it had been dipped in sugar; they just don’t make good pizzas here!) we hit the sack and looked forward to a full day of hard sun bathing when we woke.
In the morning of our first full day we climbed to the top of the nearest dune, Huacacina is the small lagoon on the left surrounded by desert. In the morning cloudy and cold, in the afternoon guaranteed sunshine. Promise.
In the morning of our first full day we climbed to the top of the nearest dune, Huacacina is the small lagoon on the left surrounded by desert. In the morning cloudy and cold, in the afternoon guaranteed sunshine. Promise.01-Aug-2009 17:12, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 100
Unfortunately, the first sight that greeted us through our rather flash curtains in El Huacachinero was grey, overcast clouds and a pretty chilly air. We needn’t have fretted, at this time of year that’s how the sky rolls and by noon you are guaranteed roasting sunshine and clear blue skies. We spent the morning cold hiking to the top of the nearest huge sand dune for a good view of our surroundings (and also to video my little sister Cathy a quick happy birthday). A bit of good hard climbing in particularly unhelpful sand soon warmed us up and the vista although cold was amazing, our little lagoon town really was in the middle of nowhere and the desert stretched on for miles. We also met Chloe and Lee up on the top of the ridge who were desperately attempting some DIY sand boarding, we’d see them quite a bit more in the coming week or so.
Later that day we were off buggying and boarding. Here we have Lynette showing off Huacachina’s finest planks of wood… oh you mean these are SANDboards?
Later that day we were off buggying and boarding. Here we have Lynette showing off Huacachina’s finest planks of wood… oh you mean these are SANDboards?01-Aug-2009 22:14, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 28.0mm, 0.013 sec, ISO 400
After we’d tumbled back down and checked into a different hostel, we arranged our dune buggying and sand boarding, one of the main activities for the area. After some bargaining we booked this for 30 soles, and at 4pm we patiently waited for our chariot to take Chris, Lynette and I off into the desert. We’d already been warned it was a bit of a hairy ride, and the drivers definitely have a whale of a time driving to the absolute tip of a massive dune, teetering on the edge, and then ripping steeply back down the other side to a chorus of white knuckled screams before skidding it across the sand to do exactly the same over another. The sand boarding itself was a bit of an experience, the boards certainly aren’t the stylish warm climate cousins of snowboards, more like the bastard children of a plywood and Velcro mud wrestle. The main issue being that you simply can’t carve through sand, it’s more like a point and go. They also need tremendous amounts of wax for every single run; luckily the driver had plenty of candles to pass around.
Showing off my boarding stance, didn’t manage to stay this upright most of the way down though…
Showing off my boarding stance, didn’t manage to stay this upright most of the way down though…01-Aug-2009 23:13, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 45.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400
The easiest and potentially most satisfying way of heading down the dunes is actually just to lie on your front, keep your head up and hope for the best. Any attempt at standing quickly involves a face full of sand or your board wedged under a foot of the stuff. Actually it’s not that bad, managed a few successful runs but turning is an absolute nightmare. After a few warm up runs we moved on to the adult stuff; immensely steep dunes that would take several hours to walk up but thankfully take the buggies only a couple of minutes to climb. They also look incredibly fast and painful should you come off. Thankfully, most of the time they were just great fun. One couple actually did bring along their snowboards and showed us what could be done be screaming down a slope, carving near the end and managing to catch some decent air before heading straight down another slope to the left. We trudged on through treacle…
Our last shot of a great experience and an exceptional place that is Huacachina.
Our last shot of a great experience and an exceptional place that is Huacachina.01-Aug-2009 23:42, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
The activity itself was great fun, something different and timed perfectly to allow us to watch the sun go down over the Peruvian desert. The drive back in the buggies was also even better at night… the next day we managed to get our full afternoon of sun bathing, and I managed to maintain a clean sheet at Chess against Chris. We even tried our first Pisco sours, which were beautiful and right up there with Caipirinha’s, although they’re slightly more difficult to make and involve a raw egg so practicality wise they’re not such a winner. Even more amazing, in a Spanglish kind of way, was that we found a cafe serving a full English breakfast, albeit with slightly fluorescent baked beans and a salami for a sausage. Still awesome breakfast though, especially when followed by a Pecan and Chocolate cookie. All in all, a good few days!
Soon after we made the trip to Nazca airport, pretty much exclusively used for flights over the Naza lines, with a related documentary constantly playing.
Soon after we made the trip to Nazca airport, pretty much exclusively used for flights over the Naza lines, with a related documentary constantly playing.03-Aug-2009 21:27, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 400
Our next port of call was a major must do for any South American traveller, the Nazca lines. These ancient geoglyphs are believed to have been etched into the desert by three different cultures; the Paracas (900-200BC), the Nascas (200BC-600AD) and the Huari (around 630AD). The most popular theory has been put forward by Dr Maria Reiche, who believes they represent a vast pre-Inca astronomical calendar. She has funded museums, built viewing platforms, and studied these lines for over 40 years. Other theories include alien landing sites, athlete running tracks, and that the ancient Nazcas actually flew around in hot air balloons. Crazy.
The captain of our plane, a cheery chap who probably has a running competition with his peers over the record number of sick bags filled a week.
The captain of our plane, a cheery chap who probably has a running competition with his peers over the record number of sick bags filled a week.03-Aug-2009 23:09, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
We went for the most cost efficient approach and took a bus straight from Ica to Nazca (4hrs, 10 soles, accidentally arriving a bit late around 3pm) before booking a flight directly at the airport. Tours would normally cost $70-80, while booking at the airport direct should cost you $50 providing you can be flexible on the day. We were successful, only taking a $55 flight as we were late and this meant they would definitely fit us in (ahem), plus they maintained it was a smaller plane and therefore cost more per person. Before long we were walking out on to the airfield to board our six man (including pilot) Cessna for our roller coaster flight across the desert. Roller coaster because with every individual glyph the pilot will allow you to view from both the left and right side of the plane – great for pictures, bad for my stomach (which is rapidly losing its cast iron reputation).
My favourite, the astronaut! And no doubt the source of many extra terrestrial Nasca theories!
My favourite, the astronaut! And no doubt the source of many extra terrestrial Nasca theories!03-Aug-2009 22:44, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 73.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
One of the most amazing aspects was the sheer number of symbols, lines and etchings. The promotional materials only discuss the biggest and clearest twelve, supposed to link with the signs of the zodiac, but in fact there are many tens more that adorn the desert floor, as well as other geometrical shapes and lines that then focus or point to nearby hills, other shapes, star constellations and anything else you could possibly attribute them to. When you consider they have found ancient aqueducts under the desert that you’re able to crawl through, hundreds of pre-Inca cemeteries and also unrelated well preserved heads (but no bodies), you can see how so many historians have found boundless details to argue and hypothesise over all these years. Certainly it was a worthwhile trip, and yet another aspect of the ancient history we want to learn more about on our return.
Another cheeky set of curves, the monkey!03-Aug-2009 22:49, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 73.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
Once finished at the airport, we took a taxi back to Nazca and started looking for a night bus to Arequipa. We hadn’t already booked one as we hadn’t been sure we’d get a flight that day (needn’t have worried), and irritatingly other people had got there first and booked our seats before us. Suddenly out of nowhere popped a potential saviour, we’ll call him Dodgy Dave. He said his friend had just started a bus company, and while he didn’t have an office in the main station the bus left from just outside of town and would give us a taxi there for free. He showed us pictures of the bus, which looked gloriously genuine enough; clean, big and hopefully plenty of leg room. Cutting a long story short, which got more and more dubious as the evening went by, we ended up in the crèche section of a smelly, sweaty bus that was worth nowhere near the 70 soles we paid for it each. We finally made it to Arequipa that morning without letting too much blood (ours or our neighbours) and vowed vehemently to never, ever take a bus with a name we have not had recommended again. Ever. Anyway, on to Arequipa!
Our beautiful and short lived stay in El Huacahinero hostel, so close to perfect but falling dismally short.01-Aug-2009 04:34, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.1 sec, ISO 1600
In the morning of our first full day we climbed to the top of the nearest dune, Huacacina is the small lagoon on the left surrounded by desert. In the morning cloudy and cold, in the afternoon guaranteed sunshine. Promise.01-Aug-2009 17:12, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 100
Attempting to sprint back down again resulted in a lot of forward rolls and lots of sand in pockets.01-Aug-2009 17:47, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 65.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 100
He’d also hilariously been taught to screech ‘F@£# off!’ by the gardeners.01-Aug-2009 17:49, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 65.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 100
Another beautiful bird we’ve been trying to get a close up shot off ever since we arrived in Peru.01-Aug-2009 22:08, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 105.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 100
Later that day we were off buggying and boarding. Here we have Lynette showing off Huacachina’s finest planks of wood… oh you mean these are SANDboards?01-Aug-2009 22:14, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 28.0mm, 0.013 sec, ISO 400
We set off in our dune buggy towards the seemingly infinte desert that surrounds Huacachina.01-Aug-2009 22:32, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 11.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
As a new friend of ours Lee put it, Huacachina is like that mythical location on the front of a packet of dates.01-Aug-2009 22:35, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 14.0, 28.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 400
The further from civilisation you get, the more amazing the open desert becomes, and the more impossible it would look to trek through.01-Aug-2009 22:35, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 11.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
I apologise for the large number of desert shots, but it really was a beautifully tranquil place.01-Aug-2009 22:35, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 14.0, 28.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
Lynette and I in front of our death buggy that careered over the dunes with a complete disregard for human life.01-Aug-2009 22:40, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
In the distance you can see the city of Ica, which is no where near as interesting as Huacachina.01-Aug-2009 22:42, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
While hot in the day, like most deserts it gets exceptionally cold at night which keeps you moving!01-Aug-2009 22:42, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 13.0, 28.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
The desert is criss-crossed with buggy tracks, and unfortunately (especially near Huacachina) a bit too much litter. Bit hard for a garbage truck to do the rounds.01-Aug-2009 22:42, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 53.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
Lynette after her first sand board run! Taking the practical and far more fun option of face first diving…01-Aug-2009 23:04, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 105.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
Showing off my boarding stance, didn’t manage to stay this upright most of the way down though…01-Aug-2009 23:13, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 45.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400
The obligatory group silhouette shot. We did try to spell Huacachina, but had forgotten the beachball for the ‘i’.01-Aug-2009 23:34, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 95.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
The setting sun provided an increasingly dramatic backrop for our boarding, it also blinded you at just the right moment.01-Aug-2009 23:36, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 11.0, 28.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
One of the first long and steep runs, hence the faltering confidence and blockage at the ridge.01-Aug-2009 23:36, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 28.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 400
Chris and Lynette, demonstrating the best way of managing to stand upright with a sandboard.01-Aug-2009 23:38, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 95.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
On to Steeper and Longer ridge, fondly called ‘Sandpit of Death by Friction’.01-Aug-2009 23:38, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 28.0mm, 0.02 sec, ISO 400
Our last shot of a great experience and an exceptional place that is Huacachina.01-Aug-2009 23:42, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
Soon after we made the trip to Nazca airport, pretty much exclusively used for flights over the Naza lines, with a related documentary constantly playing.03-Aug-2009 21:27, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 400
Heading out to our little Cessna, which held a total of six people including the pilot.03-Aug-2009 22:29, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
A tight squeeze for all of us, but the pilot was good and made sure we got our fair share of rollercoaster!03-Aug-2009 22:31, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 28.0mm, 0.025 sec, ISO 400
There are also hundreds of geometrical shapes beyond the main twelve attributed to signs of the zodiac.03-Aug-2009 22:42, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 38.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
My favourite, the astronaut! And no doubt the source of many extra terrestrial Nasca theories!03-Aug-2009 22:44, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 73.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
The menacing spider, with one lucky leg. Other Nazca theories include running lanes for races.03-Aug-2009 22:51, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 105.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
The scenery that surrounds the flight is equally as stunning, although I was breathing hard at this point while trying to appreciate it.03-Aug-2009 22:54, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 30.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
The Hands, The Tree, and another one. This is where Maria Reiche built her viewing platform.03-Aug-2009 22:57, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 60.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
Where the arid desert meets the mountains, but in these dried out deltas there is vegetation that hints at wetter seasons.03-Aug-2009 23:02, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 38.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
Nazca itself, which is heavily orientated towards tourists with many bars and shops.03-Aug-2009 23:04, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 45.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
The captain of our plane, a cheery chap who probably has a running competition with his peers over the record number of sick bags filled a week.03-Aug-2009 23:09, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
clean sheet at chess….just get the facebook application up and I’m up for a rematch from afar!
The bus story is fantastic, of all the buses I took in south America, few lived up to their billing, most are just ordeals
Had a great few days with you at the oasis, hope you like the pics I’ve tagged of you on facebook. Really was one of the highlights of my trip.
Journey home was pretty uneventful, except they lost my bag for a few days on the flight. Being back at work is a culture shock and a really jealous of your guys still being out there, but it is nice to be back with James…
He’d also hilariously been taught to screech ‘F@£# off!’ by the gardeners.
I apologise for the large number of desert shots, but it really was a beautifully tranquil place.
In the morning of our first full day we climbed to the top of the nearest dune, Huacacina is the small lagoon on the left surrounded by desert. In the morning cloudy and cold, in the afternoon guaranteed sunshine. Promise.
Later that day we were off buggying and boarding. Here we have Lynette showing off Huacachina’s finest planks of wood… oh you mean these are SANDboards?
Showing off my boarding stance, didn’t manage to stay this upright most of the way down though…
One couple actually did bring along their snowboards and showed us what could be done be screaming down a slope, carving near the end and managing to catch some decent air before heading straight down another slope to the left. We trudged on through treacle…
Our last shot of a great experience and an exceptional place that is Huacachina.
Soon after we made the trip to Nazca airport, pretty much exclusively used for flights over the Naza lines, with a related documentary constantly playing.
The captain of our plane, a cheery chap who probably has a running competition with his peers over the record number of sick bags filled a week.
My favourite, the astronaut! And no doubt the source of many extra terrestrial Nasca theories!
Another cheeky set of curves, the monkey!
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clean sheet at chess….just get the facebook application up and I’m up for a rematch from afar!
The bus story is fantastic, of all the buses I took in south America, few lived up to their billing, most are just ordeals
Had a great few days with you at the oasis, hope you like the pics I’ve tagged of you on facebook. Really was one of the highlights of my trip.
Journey home was pretty uneventful, except they lost my bag for a few days on the flight. Being back at work is a culture shock and a really jealous of your guys still being out there, but it is nice to be back with James…