The happy crew at the bottom of the downhill; now all that is left is about 1,500m of up!13-Aug-2009 17:25, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 28.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400
The lost Incan city of Choquequirao is known as the sacred sister to Machu Picchu, only accessible by foot and receiving just one percent of the visiting tourists annually. As each year progresses, the site becomes busier, so time is of the essence before this mostly unheard of archaeological treasure becomes another tourist’s tick box. With so many improbable rumours to be investigated, the challenge of a soul crushing hike and the opportunity for a good spot of camping, how could we possibly give it a miss? Would my knee hold up? More importantly, is rum and yoghurt actually drinkable?
Note: 1 GBP = ~5 Peruvian Soles at time of writing.
And thankfully we made the effort to reach the flat topped hill, where certainly the most amazing views of Choquequirao are available.
And thankfully we made the effort to reach the flat topped hill, where certainly the most amazing views of Choquequirao are available.12-Aug-2009 21:29, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 30.0mm, 0.013 sec, ISO 400
Choquequirao, or Cradle of Gold, is a partly excavated ruined city of the Inca in the south of Peru. Very similar in style and location to the more famous Machu Picchu, it is often referred to as its sister city and was built about 500 years ago but remained largely untouched until only thirty years ago. Estimated to be far bigger than Machu Picchu itself, only 30% of the ruins have yet been rescued from the jungle’s clutches since excavations began in 1970. Although it had had the occasional explorer through its walls in the last few hundred years, no great attention was paid until Hiram Bingham, the discoverer of Machu Picchu, visited Choquequirao in 1909. While it is still only accessible by a strenuous two day hike for now, there is constant talk of building either another train or perhaps a cable car to the site, to help relieve the pressure from the overcrowded Machu Picchu, which is estimated to have received 1m visitors in 2008, or over 2,000 a day. Choquequirao receives less than 1% of this, and to be one of these few was a temptation that we could not ignore!
First stop in Cuzco, the interrupted tranquility that is the Plaza de Armas.
First stop in Cuzco, the interrupted tranquility that is the Plaza de Armas.08-Aug-2009 21:50, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
We arrived in Cusco on a night bus from Arequipa, again suitably drained and really starting to doubt the logic of swapping one night’s accommodation for a dazed day of exploration, with our heads full of warnings from other travellers and guidebooks on how much of a tourist trap the town is and that there really isn’t much to see. Well, for us it was a pleasant surprise on how much fun the city really is; as long as you can screen out the obligatory pose with a traditional dressed Peruvian (and her Llama) for a photo, dodge the hundreds of offered massages and stop blinking confusedly at the hundreds of finger puppets long enough to appreciate the cleanliness, the beautiful plazas, and hybrid Colonial and Incan architecture you can find the place quite fascinating. Of course we didn’t pick up on any of this to start with, as we staggered from hostel to hostel to find something to our taste and eventually settled on a hostel in the up and coming Artisan area of Cusco aptly named Andes de San Blas. 60 soles a night got us a double with private bathroom, breakfast and wireless internet (slow and only accessible in the lobby), we’ve ended up returning here many times after mini trips to the surrounding attractions!
Periodically military parades and bands will stride through the streets to gather a crowd.
Periodically military parades and bands will stride through the streets to gather a crowd.09-Aug-2009 18:00, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 28.0mm, 0.013 sec, ISO 400
At our first breakfast we met a fascinating French couple who were taking travelling to the next level. Not only were they cycling the length of the Americas (From the top of North America to the tip of the South), they were also being sponsored by investors from home to investigate various microfinancing opportunities across South America. This struck me as an excellent way of really understanding how a country works, how its inhabitants operate and what the future may have in store for an area that is generally third world. Coincidentally, they had also just returned from a DIY trip to Choquequirao, and conveniently written the whole experience up into a three page guide on how to tackle the thing yourself. Armed with new knowledge and motivation we arranged to meet with Martins & Dagmara, a Latvian couple we’ve met repeatedly since Columbia and have now become firm friends. Unsurprisingly like us they’re also a fan of the odd beer; so we set the trap in a local bar bringing freshly printed copies of the proposed plan with us.
How long an hour lasts for a tree we’re not sure, if its anything like dog years then we have a long wait…
How long an hour lasts for a tree we’re not sure, if its anything like dog years then we have a long wait…08-Aug-2009 22:32, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 30.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
A few beers in we broached the subject; it didn’t start well – they hadn’t heard of Choquequirao, had been planning their own trip to Machu Picchu, and had only arrived in Cusco about four hours previously. Undeterred, we sold the benefits and before long Dagmara was positively giddy with the prospect and we arranged to meet the next day to sort out camping equipment and get cracking. Bargaining went well, the budget was looking good, and we turned up at the rental shop to do the complete the deal. In another stroke of fate, we met another couple who were also about to do the Choquiquerao trek, in exactly the same way, at exactly the same time, and also seemed pretty clued up on what they were doing! Soon enough, our group of four hyped up hikers was now six, and we set off to the supermarket for supplies.
Here is our host for the evening preparing dinner in her actual kitchen!
Here is our host for the evening preparing dinner in her actual kitchen!11-Aug-2009 00:15, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 400
The next day we set off with our camping equipment and various kitchen sinks packed, leaving the absolutely unnecessary at our respective hostels. Jille and Chris had immediately proved their indispensability the night before by taking a taxi to the Terminal Terrestre and booking tickets for all of us on the bus to Abancay and then jumping off at the intersection to Cachora (15 soles), to then take a Colectivo (25 soles per car, negotiating is nigh on impossible) to Cachora itself which is the starting point for the trek. We’d planned to stay in Hospedaje Salkatay, but this was full so we were ferried across to La Casona de Ocampo (10 soles bed, 5 soles dinner, 5 soles breakfast) a delightfully rudimentary hostel that completely set the scene for the off the beaten path trek we were about to attempt. After organising our mules and arriero, plus a bit of beer and bonding, we hit the sack ready to set off at 7am all packed and ready to go.
Our arriero (mule and horse carer) Valentin packing up the donkeys ready for departure.
Our arriero (mule and horse carer) Valentin packing up the donkeys ready for departure.11-Aug-2009 14:57, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
When the mules didn’t actually turn up until a typically Peruvian two hours later than planned, we finally set off at 9am and skipped our way out of Cachora. So that you’re aware, Cachora is very small and not exactly a hot spot for renting camping equipment or buying supplies so definitely do this in advance. So, for those who are looking for this information please find a bunch of facts and figures below, with the actual blog summary at the bottom…
Lynette and Dagmara soaking up the hot sun!11-Aug-2009 15:48, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
We did the hike in four days, but five would have been much better and less strenuous (camp at Apurimac River on the first day, day two hike to last campsite, day three Choquequirao, days four and five fairly similar route back). Of course, there is a much longer hike that continues on from Choquequirao and finishes at Machu Picchu. This takes 8/9 days and is not for the feint hearted!
Lynette examining one of the largest Aloe Vera plants we’ve seen in this field of them on the way down.
Lynette examining one of the largest Aloe Vera plants we’ve seen in this field of them on the way down.11-Aug-2009 18:54, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
To put the below altitudes in perspective, day one was a total altitude change of over 2.5km, at over 2km above sea level. If you add up three of the famous peaks in the United Kingdom; Ben Nevis (1,300m climb), Snowdonia (864m climb), and Scafell Pike (850m climb) it is a total of 3km. A bit of poetic license here; but for those intrepid hikers at Solsis who are attempting to go up AND down all three of those peaks in 24 hours… good luck! Take your iPods!
Waypoint
Altitude
Distance walked
Notes
Day One
Cachora
2,850m
0km
A pretty tough first day covering 25km and a combined altitude change of over 2.5km. First 11km – easy. Next 14km, knee crushingly painful! Took us about 8hrs.
Huarac Punku
3,100m
11km
Chuiquiska Campsite
~2,100m
18km
Apurimac River Campsite
1,550m
21km
Santa Rosa Campsite
2,013m
24km
Santa Rosa Alta Campsite
2,243m
25km
Day Two
Marcapata Campsite
~2,850m
28km
13km covered, the last 3km to Choquequirao is quite tough, as is hiking up, down and around the site. 9hrs including 4.5 at the site.
Last Campsite
~3,000m
32km
Choquequirao
3,150m
33km
Marcapata Campsite
~2,850m
38km
Day Three
Apurimac River Campsite
1,550m
45km
More crushing of knees,was very hot for us, 8hrs including 3hrs just hiding in shade!
Chuiquiska Campsite
~2,100m
48km
Day Four
Huarac Punku
3,100m
55km
Potentially the toughest day with 1.5km altitude change when tired. We set off at 6am to avoid the heat, recommended!
Cachora
2,850m
66km
Budgeting for Choquequirao
The below information should suit as a guide if you’re planning your own trek or need a checklist to make sure you’ve covered everything – these are what we paid and include appropriate negotiation!
Four day hike for six people
Cost (soles)
Camping equipment (3 x 2 man tent, 6 x sleeping bags, mats, walking sticks,2 x stove, pots and pans)
450
Gas x 4
80
Rehydration tables & water purification
40
Abancay bus & back (15 there, 10 back)
150
Colectivo
50
Food (You need to feed your arriero)
300
Camp sites
24
3 x Mules (20/day)
240
Horse (20/day) In case of injury/tiredness
80
Arriero (20/day) (mule carer)
80
Spending money (20 soles per person)
120
Cachora hostel & food (20 soles per person)
120
Choquequirao entrance (36 soles per person)
216
Final price per person
325 soles, $108 or £65.
What we ate on the hike
Relaxing for our meal of vegetable mush and sausages after a long day’s hike… lovely!
Relaxing for our meal of vegetable mush and sausages after a long day’s hike… lovely!12-Aug-2009 18:52, FUJIFILM FinePix F40fd , 2.8, 8.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 800
You can hire a “cocinero” (cook) in Cachora for the hike, we didn’t bother and continued our DIY mantra throughout dividing cooking so that each couple cooked breakfast and dinner once. Don’t forget to account for your arriero, even though he’ll probably palm it off on his mates anyway the cheeky bugger. To drink: Water from the taps with purifier tablets prepurchased – no problems. And we brought some rum and coke… one bottle per couple. Breakfast: Coca tea, porridge with honey (using water), granola and yoghurt.
Lunch/snacks: Inka (granola) bars, Snicker bars, apples, oranges, toffee sweeties! Dinner: Worked well as each couple was responsible for one night;
Poached/friend chicken with cumin & spices + potatoes (The chicken was purchased in Cachora, and survived day one without going bad).
Vegetable and tinned sausage stew with rice (Vegetables would survive slightly longer without going dangerously off).
Tuna in tomato sauce with pasta and cheese (Tuna is expensive in Peru, but everything was tinned so wouldn’t go off).
Other suggestions would be soya based meals or simply tinned meals as these are freely available and dried so they are good for transport. Tinned items in general are more expensive in Peru though.
Our views on the hike and Choquequirao itself
One thing that is certain is how incredible the views are surrounding the ancient city; one of the prime factors in their choosing of the site.
One thing that is certain is how incredible the views are surrounding the ancient city; one of the prime factors in their choosing of the site.12-Aug-2009 20:17, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
It was hard work! There is no denying that. Arranging the hike in a DIY fashion was simple enough, and if you’re planning on doing it yourself I hope the above information is useful. I actually really enjoyed the hike itself; when the going got tough I simply plugged into the iPod, found a rhythm and battling with my own body in an effort to keep going. Lynette enjoyed it less; both her and Dagmara had major issues with the heat and the day we got up super early to start in the cooler temperature was definitely a good idea.
Our feet actually bought us both presents they were so grateful for the icey dunking.
Our feet actually bought us both presents they were so grateful for the icey dunking.13-Aug-2009 17:45, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 30.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
The views are astounding; Apurimac Canyon is yet another example of the Andes at their best, rolling mountains, steep cliffs, snow capped mountains, careering donkeys and rural villages all combine to make it an unforgettable experience. With appropriate banter and a good group which we were lucky to have it’ll be a trek that not many have yet experienced and you can feel a huge amount of pleasure in still being classed as one of the first. But it is certainly getting busier – whereas a few years ago there might be twenty a month attempting the trek there are now about twenty a day.
So on to Choquequirao itself, first the bad;
In typical Blue Peter style… here’s one we made earlier!
In typical Blue Peter style… here’s one we made earlier!12-Aug-2009 19:27, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
The Incans are famous for their building techniques; huge stone blocks carefully chiselled to perfection that required no cement and created gloriously immense structures that humbled you to think of the effort required in creating them. Unfortunately at Choquequirao there is none of this – the walls are small wedges of rock fixed perhaps originally with mud with no resemblance to the construction they are famous for bar the trapezoidal doorways.
We were under the impression that the ruins were largely untouched since their excavation, not true as there are large amounts of cement used to resurrect the buildings into something of their past glory. This is a necessary evil, without this they would be closer to piles of rubble than the sprawling city that is represented today. It would have been fantastic however if the original construction had been to the standards they were famous for and therefore required little or no reconstructive work.
We had been told that Choquequirao was immense and much larger than Machu Picchu. Currently, as they have only uncovered 30-40% of the ruins this is not the case and the bustle of buildings that are the most famous archaeological ruins in Peru seem to cover a much larger area and certainly with much more variety and interest.
And now, on to the good!
The answer was not a lot, except some excellent views of the whole site from above. And a sweaty back.
The answer was not a lot, except some excellent views of the whole site from above. And a sweaty back.12-Aug-2009 20:42, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
It is virtually deserted. There are no tour groups with megaphones, no queuing for photographs and no expensive restaurants or shops for supplies (none at all in fact). This allows you to much better immerse yourself in the surroundings and the quiet tranquillity of the area is a welcome relief from the strenuous hike involved in arriving there.
Neither site is exclusive of the other; it is important to see as much of Pre-Colombian history in South America as possible and both sites are fine examples of ancient construction techniques as many other sites from other cultures are made of adobe mud bricks and have fared far less favourably in the test of time. Having the opportunity to see such an immense representation of Incan life in any state is a bonus.
They’re not done with the excavations – since less than half is uncovered as the years roll by the site itself will only get better. As of this moment the recent Llama excavations are available to see and while require yet more climbing to visit it is exciting to think of the treasures and understanding that will be uncovered.
The smiling couple, at the zenith of our Choquequirao trip.
The smiling couple, at the zenith of our Choquequirao trip.12-Aug-2009 21:28, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 28.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400
Overall, would we have attempted the trek again if we know what we did now? Absolutely. It was an experience of a lifetime and we were incredibly lucky with the great people we took along for the ride. The views, the ups and downs, the ruins themselves and the knowledge that we’re still one of the first made the entire experience something a bit special. Before I finish off this post, a few questions that need answering I think…
Lynette braving the sub zero shower, basically a hose pipe of mountain water down your back…
Lynette braving the sub zero shower, basically a hose pipe of mountain water down your back…12-Aug-2009 23:26, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 45.0mm, 0.077 sec, ISO 400
Were there any hot showers? No – not in any way shape or form. Sodding freezing and thankfully I managed to avoid having one until we got back (bar the last night actually – I must have blnked that horrific experience from my memory). Yuck you might say (so would Lynette), but after hearing shrieks and screams from every attempt by other to brave the ice cold waters it was I who came out smiling!!!
This donkey has it lightly, we’ve seen them go past with bricks, mortar, tables, chairs… still no kitchen sink.
This donkey has it lightly, we’ve seen them go past with bricks, mortar, tables, chairs… still no kitchen sink.13-Aug-2009 15:16, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 30.0mm, 0.02 sec, ISO 400
Did your knee hold up? Three days of glorious hiking with virtually no trouble (big fan of walking sticks now!), when cooking on our last night I attempted to get up from a low position and immediately my knee buckled and I spent another week on crutches. Most frustratingly for Lynette, this meant I managed an impromptu horse trek back on the last day (she’d been sure that the spot would be hers). It was a tag team effort on the horses’ part, as the first one nearly had a coronary under the effort of carrying me and his amigo had to take over. I was then unceremoniously dumped still 10km from Cachora, but thankfull managed to hop into a kind souls truck who gave me a ride the rest of the way. As of writing this I am now walking aid free again though which is great!
Left to Right: Valentin (Quechuan), Dagmara & Martins (Latvian), Cripple, Knackered, Chris (Spanish), Jille (Belgian). All very glad to be home (nearly)!
Left to Right: Valentin (Quechuan), Dagmara & Martins (Latvian), Cripple, Knackered, Chris (Spanish), Jille (Belgian). All very glad to be home (nearly)!14-Aug-2009 17:51, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
Is Rum and Yoghurt a good drinking combination? Surprisingly, yes! And there are so many flavours! We tried a rum and Gabanagonai (I made that up, I can’t remember the name of the local fruit but it began with G) yoghurt mixture and it tasted exactly like Egyptian sheesh pipe which was luverly. Couldn’t drink the stuff all night, but definitely makes a welcome aperitif style finisher to an excellent meal. Whether Pirates of old could be converted is another question, but it’s definitely opened up a whole new world of Rum. Rum & Pot Noodle anyone?
First stop in Cuzco, the interrupted tranquility that is the Plaza de Armas.08-Aug-2009 21:50, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
How long an hour lasts for a tree we’re not sure, if its anything like dog years then we have a long wait…08-Aug-2009 22:32, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 30.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
Periodically military parades and bands will stride through the streets to gather a crowd.09-Aug-2009 18:00, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 28.0mm, 0.013 sec, ISO 400
Considering how many times a day they do this, you might have thought they’d be in time…09-Aug-2009 18:00, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 105.0mm, 0.02 sec, ISO 400
I just missed the guy on the right doing the bunny fingers over the guy on the left’s head. Busted. Nearly…09-Aug-2009 18:50, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 105.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
And thankfully neither was he… otherwise we’d have been a mule down for our trek!11-Aug-2009 14:49, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 60.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
Carefully we packed our stuff together… only to have it wrenched apart to better balance on our donkeys.11-Aug-2009 14:49, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
I’m keeping my distance as this cheeky chappy is fond of pointing his hindquarters at me in a menacing fashion…11-Aug-2009 08:49, FUJIFILM FinePix F40fd , 4.5, 8.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 100
Our arriero (mule and horse carer) Valentin packing up the donkeys ready for departure.11-Aug-2009 14:57, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
Our first day of departure from Cachora, heading into something we expected to be quite painful!11-Aug-2009 15:10, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 70.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
Cachora itself is surrounded by mountain peaks with the one opening heading out towards snow capped peaks – our direction!11-Aug-2009 15:17, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
The crew from left to right; Chris (Spanish), Jille (Belgian), Me, Lynette, Dagmara and Martins (Latvians).11-Aug-2009 09:51, FUJIFILM FinePix F40fd , 8.0, 8.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 100
This Arachnid worryingly set up his web in the shape of a funnel. I always get worried when those three words are put together…11-Aug-2009 16:58, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 105.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
Here is where a lot of the donkeys are turfed out to recuperate in between treks. Not really much need for a fence!11-Aug-2009 17:22, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
The first 11km or so wind round the sides of the mountain in baking sun; statistically you are going to get eaten alive by sand flies before the end. Its proven.11-Aug-2009 17:25, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
Apurimac Canyon – The scenery is stunning and a major reason for actually doing the trek; not just the Incan ruins!11-Aug-2009 17:31, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
Mirador de Capuliyoc, the first major viewing point set on a spit of rock jutting out into the gully.11-Aug-2009 17:31, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
And here the knee crushing 1,500m starts; the term switchback conjures involuntary shakes by the end…11-Aug-2009 18:25, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 105.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
Still, the towering mountains, beautiful weather and favourite tunes in the iPod certainly help things through!11-Aug-2009 18:48, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
Lynette examining one of the largest Aloe Vera plants we’ve seen in this field of them on the way down.11-Aug-2009 18:54, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
We also found these weird tropical trees that look as though they’re full of bird nests.11-Aug-2009 19:00, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
The trees also have these fruits that pop into flossy existence. No doubt weaved into a glorious hat at some point in their lives.11-Aug-2009 19:17, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 105.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
Nearly at the bottom! Now to find the bridge… apparently somebody died a few months ago swimming in Apurimac river… no body was ever found.11-Aug-2009 20:54, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
As Choquequirau becomes more popular, expect to see helpful signs on this bridge such as ‘only 10 people at a time’ or ‘$20 per person’.11-Aug-2009 21:16, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
Dagmara and Martins nipping down to the river for a quick refreshing dip; everybody feels as though they’re body is at about 50 degrees centigrade.11-Aug-2009 21:16, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 105.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
Setting up camp on the first day; we were the only people there bar a Peruvian who joined us for dinner.12-Aug-2009 06:32, FUJIFILM FinePix F40fd , 2.8, 8.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 200
The frantic activity is the rush for the cold hosepipe shower before the sun goes down and any chance of heating back up again completely disappears.11-Aug-2009 23:46, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.3 sec, ISO 400
The view back up the otherside of the canyon, if you look closely you can see our path from the top left to the bottom right.12-Aug-2009 15:39, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
Day two, hiking up to our second campsite from where we’ll set off for Choquequirau itself.12-Aug-2009 15:41, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
The second campsite, a bit busier by the end but excitingly close to our final destination.13-Aug-2009 15:05, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
Also the home of some fairly hilarious wildlife, with Martins and Dagmara immediately making friends with the local canines.12-Aug-2009 16:19, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 35.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
There she is! The ruins of Choquequirau, only rediscovered in 1834, and excavations only beginning in the 1970s.12-Aug-2009 15:41, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 105.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
After an hour or so trek further on from the campsite, what looks like the entrance. It isn’t, you merely buy the ticket here, another two hours of hard hiking to look forward to!12-Aug-2009 16:55, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 63.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
On finding these guys widening the path, we realised the crashing thumps of bouncing boulders we’d been hearing wasn’t natural.12-Aug-2009 17:17, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 68.0mm, 0.013 sec, ISO 400
So naturally asked them to chuck another one off the side, just for our own pleasure.12-Aug-2009 17:18, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 28.0mm, 0.013 sec, ISO 400
These agricultural terraces run for over 300m and allow the Incans to gow sufficient food in the immediate vicinity of their mountain cities.12-Aug-2009 17:22, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
Lynette chilling out to next to a rushing waterfall; just the sound is enough to refresh.12-Aug-2009 17:28, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
Nope, still not there, they could have built the ticket office closer. Such a tease.12-Aug-2009 17:38, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 28.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 400
I guess we picked the right one! Now, this, truly must be the actual beginning of the ruins…12-Aug-2009 18:08, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 28.0mm, 0.013 sec, ISO 400
The base of the terraces, only a little more climbing to the central plaza!12-Aug-2009 18:15, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
Finally we arrive! The central plaza of Choquequirau, where we gladly rest our feet…12-Aug-2009 18:23, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 38.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
Up and at ‘em, we start to check out the ruins after a spot of Inka bar lunch. This, we assume, is the Inkan equivalent of a pestle and mortar.12-Aug-2009 19:20, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
Some ruins they haven’t managed to confabulate into a house yet with a slop of cement.12-Aug-2009 19:27, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
The eerie quietness of the site makes it much easier to picture life as a fully fledged up and running Inkan city.12-Aug-2009 19:30, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 28.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400
Multi-storey buildings, open plazas, temples and aqueducts complete the picture.12-Aug-2009 19:31, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
We’re not sure what these are for; either decoration or to lash rope for doors or animals.12-Aug-2009 19:33, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 105.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
All you need is a ceiling and a roof and you’re there. It is disappointing that the walls need to be held together with the modern aid of cement, but good they are there at all.12-Aug-2009 19:36, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 28.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400
Another large room, where apparently small luxuries were placed in these little cubby holes.12-Aug-2009 19:37, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 28.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400
At the higher plaza are more ruins, and these incredibly large steps. A knackered Lynette isn’t always present!12-Aug-2009 19:46, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 28.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400
There are huge numbers of butterflies, bees, dragonflies and other flying insects in the area. Generally large.12-Aug-2009 19:47, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 105.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400
Yes, there are many pictures of ruins, and it is only now I come to write the captions I realise how many…12-Aug-2009 19:52, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 28.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400
One thing that is certain is how incredible the views are surrounding the ancient city; one of the prime factors in their choosing of the site.12-Aug-2009 20:17, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
Having noticed some hikers take a route off-piste, I decided to follow and see what I would find.12-Aug-2009 20:31, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.05 sec, ISO 400
The answer was not a lot, except some excellent views of the whole site from above. And a sweaty back.12-Aug-2009 20:42, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
Back down to a slightly more sensible altitude, and obviously very happy about it!12-Aug-2009 21:10, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
Some more recent excavations of the site, where they have found depictions of Llamas carefully laid into the rocks.12-Aug-2009 21:11, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 105.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
And thankfully we made the effort to reach the flat topped hill, where certainly the most amazing views of Choquequirao are available.12-Aug-2009 21:29, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 30.0mm, 0.013 sec, ISO 400
On the way back, the fading sunlight cast eerie reflections on the opposite canyon wall.12-Aug-2009 22:49, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 28.0mm, 0.013 sec, ISO 400
Only to find Dagmara and Martins have been relaxing by their tent for hours, playing with the local wildlife.12-Aug-2009 23:10, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 28.0mm, 0.013 sec, ISO 400
Lynette braving the sub zero shower, basically a hose pipe of mountain water down your back…12-Aug-2009 23:26, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 45.0mm, 0.077 sec, ISO 400
This feathered blur is part of the process that makes eggs become special.12-Aug-2009 23:28, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 105.0mm, 0.04 sec, ISO 400
Relaxing for our meal of vegetable mush and sausages after a long day’s hike… lovely!12-Aug-2009 18:52, FUJIFILM FinePix F40fd , 2.8, 8.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 800
The same hosepipe that supplies the shower also washes up. I’m being useful by taking photos…13-Aug-2009 02:47, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 400
The donkeys roll up for their daily stacking of everything but the kitchen sink…12-Aug-2009 15:38, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
This donkey has it lightly, we’ve seen them go past with bricks, mortar, tables, chairs… still no kitchen sink.13-Aug-2009 15:16, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 30.0mm, 0.02 sec, ISO 400
Off we head, this time its nothing but downhill all the way… that certainly doesn’t mean its easy!13-Aug-2009 15:15, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 105.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
Our last view of Choquequirao nestled on the spur of yet another massive mountain.13-Aug-2009 15:18, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 50.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
The happy crew at the bottom of the downhill; now all that is left is about 1,500m of up!13-Aug-2009 17:25, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 28.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400
Our feet actually bought us both presents they were so grateful for the icey dunking.13-Aug-2009 17:45, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 30.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
As we started to climb, we realised just how hot it had become and had to chill out in the shade for about 3hrs before it cooled down sufficiently to start walking again!13-Aug-2009 20:29, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 105.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
Our last campsite, witness to a spectacular sunset casting a golden glow over our surroundings.13-Aug-2009 22:56, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 28.0mm, 0.013 sec, ISO 400
This battered collection of sticks and branches is where they grind corn and also produce maize juice that they couldn’t get enough of.13-Aug-2009 22:55, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 28.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400
Some of that corn we were just talking about. Exciting huh? Imagine watching it grow!13-Aug-2009 22:56, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
Left to Right: Valentin (Quechuan), Dagmara & Martins (Latvian), Cripple, Knackered, Chris (Spanish), Jille (Belgian). All very glad to be home (nearly)!14-Aug-2009 17:51, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
And thankfully we made the effort to reach the flat topped hill, where certainly the most amazing views of Choquequirao are available.
First stop in Cuzco, the interrupted tranquility that is the Plaza de Armas.
Periodically military parades and bands will stride through the streets to gather a crowd.
How long an hour lasts for a tree we’re not sure, if its anything like dog years then we have a long wait…
Here is our host for the evening preparing dinner in her actual kitchen!
Our arriero (mule and horse carer) Valentin packing up the donkeys ready for departure.
Lynette and Dagmara soaking up the hot sun!
Lynette examining one of the largest Aloe Vera plants we’ve seen in this field of them on the way down.
Relaxing for our meal of vegetable mush and sausages after a long day’s hike… lovely!
One thing that is certain is how incredible the views are surrounding the ancient city; one of the prime factors in their choosing of the site.
Our feet actually bought us both presents they were so grateful for the icey dunking.
In typical Blue Peter style… here’s one we made earlier!
The answer was not a lot, except some excellent views of the whole site from above. And a sweaty back.
The smiling couple, at the zenith of our Choquequirao trip.
Lynette braving the sub zero shower, basically a hose pipe of mountain water down your back…
This donkey has it lightly, we’ve seen them go past with bricks, mortar, tables, chairs… still no kitchen sink.
Left to Right: Valentin (Quechuan), Dagmara & Martins (Latvian), Cripple, Knackered, Chris (Spanish), Jille (Belgian). All very glad to be home (nearly)!
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