 Steve and I posing.29-Jul-2009 17:44, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 100 |
It was time for a change from pre-Columbian ruins so we headed off on a fantastic night bus to Huaraz, a town at the base of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range. We aimed to do a hike in the mountains to see the spectacular views this area offered. Following that, animals were the name of the game at the Islas Ballestas just off the coast from Pisco. Two fun experiences, especially when one of them involves penguins !!!
 Diverse land.
Diverse land.29-Jul-2009 20:06, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 28.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 100 |
From Trujillo to Huaraz, we booked a semi-cama seat on a bus with Linea (45 soles). Our Swiss friend, Reto, booked a cama on the same bus for 60 soles and we’re glad to say there was no difference between the two! Huge reclining leather seats and food to boot, we were very happy apart from the drink that we were given with our meal was fluorescent pink and reminded us of the liquid you swill around your mouth at the dentist’s…. 13h later rather than the anticipated 9h (due to mechanical problems) we arrived bright and early in Huaraz. We quickly looked for the recommended hostels in our Footprints guide and ended up having to stay at a hostel called Casa De Jaimes. Due to the Peruvian Independence Day Holiday being on 28th July, all accommodation in Peru almost doubles in price – this was the only hostel we could find that hadn’t inflated their prices at all. For 24 soles we weren’t expecting much, and we didn’t get it! Two single beds pushed together on the top floor of a hostel which attracted noise from outside, no internet, no breakfast – thank goodness this was another one nighter!
 The 3 musketeers plus guide about to set off.
The 3 musketeers plus guide about to set off.29-Jul-2009 14:35, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 22.0, 28.0mm, 0.02 sec, ISO 400 |
We asked many tour agencies about a good hike to do in the Cordillera Blanca (preferably not Huascarán, the highest mountain in Peru at 6,768m). Reto was going to do a 4 day Santa Cruz hike but we just couldn’t afford the time so the three of us decided to do a small one day hike to Churup Lagoon (4,450m) which is usually used as an acclimatization hike. With Steve’s leg still an unknown entity, we wanted to start small. For the rest of the day we chilled with Reto, having some delicious spaghetti carbonara at night in Bistro De Los Andes. Huaraz is a town with a population of 100,000. Not a lot goes on there, it is simply a base for hiking but it’s hot during the day and the Cordillera Blanca surrounding the town is picture perfect – snow capped peaks glittering in the brilliant blue sky, gorgeous!
 Starting our storm up the mountain, me in front – that wouldn’t last long…
Starting our storm up the mountain, me in front – that wouldn't last long…29-Jul-2009 14:55, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 22.0, 28.0mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 400 |
We got up at 6am, and were packed and ready to go hiking at 7am. The tour shop (Galaxia – recommended) had made us a packed lunch for later that day – sandwich, banana, choc bar, choc biscuits and Ritz crackers. The day was to consist of a 1h drive, 3h hike up, 2h hike back then 1.5h walk to the colectivo (we had originally booked for a taxi to pick us up at the end of the hike, but that fact got omitted at some point) for the 1h journey back to Huaraz. Our taxi eventually set off at 7.45am and we arrived to buy tickets for our mountain entry at 8.45am (6 soles each but if you’re doing a longer trek later on, buy the accumulative ticket at 35 soles so you don’t pay twice!). Our guide was nice and kept telling us to go ‘slowly, slowly’ which suited me fine! We set off at 9am from 3,800m, my chest really hurt as we started off quite fast so then we had to slow down for a bit. The scenery was spectacular – you could see the Cordillera Blanca and Negro. I found the hike tough with many squat thrusts and actual climbing up rock faces.
 Stunning scenery – it takes another day to get up that little bit of mountain to the top and back.
Stunning scenery – it takes another day to get up that little bit of mountain to the top and back.29-Jul-2009 16:56, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 28.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 100 |
By 10.30am we had reached the lake via beautiful shrubbery, streams and crystal clear waterfalls (from the snow melt). The snow was at the actual peak so we could see it clearly as you can see from the pictures but thankfully didn’t have to climb it. The lake was beautiful turquoise and huge, nestled in the crevice of the mountain. It appeared out of the blue over a giant stone boulder – as it only took us 1.5h instead of the 3h estimate, we still thought we had a way to go! We stayed at the top for 1h in the clear blue sky, hot sun and cold wind just gazing at the lake and the snow capped peak. I was trying to tan my legs but no joy. The trek to the bottom took about 1h and then the further 1.5h walk along a dust track to the colectivo. Steve found it quite tough going downhill with his knee so we know a longer trek wouldn’t have been a good idea!
 Bit more exciting pose
Bit more exciting pose29-Jul-2009 17:47, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 100 |
As we had checked out of our hostel and had left our bags with the tour company, we showered at Reto’s hostel which cost us 3 soles each. We hung about with a group of people from Reto’s hostel drinking smoothies and eating the lovely carbonara again – yum! We had booked a night bus to Lima that evening as a semi-cama with a small bus company. How different could it be to Linea? Answer = very! The seats didn’t recline, no food, no AC – it was just like a normal bus only we were on it for 9h. We didn’t sleep a wink so it wasn’t a good journey to Lima!
 After a hard day’s climbing followed by a shocking night bus, Steve decided to buy some crack…
After a hard day's climbing followed by a shocking night bus, Steve decided to buy some crack…31-Jul-2009 01:52, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 105.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 100 |
At 6am we arrived in Lima – we had already made the decision not to stay there as we didn’t want to stay in another huge, dirty city but since then other travellers have told us it is a fabulous city so if choosing, choose Lima over Quito! About 30min later we had found a bus to Pisco in the Ica region of Peru from where we could go to the Islas Ballestas or ‘Poor Man’s Galapagos’ in the Paracas National Reservation Park. The bus doesn’t leave you in Pisco but 10km away on the Panamerican Highway so 4h later we were swamped by taxi drivers vying for our business. We literally ran across the road to decide what we wanted to do without the ‘help’ of the taxi drivers and eventually grabbed a taxi to Pisco town through shanty town after shanty town – after no sleep since before climbing the mountain, we couldn’t cope with a colectivo.
 Popeye the sailor man, peep peep….
Popeye the sailor man, peep peep….31-Jul-2009 14:18, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 105.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 100 |
Pisco is very run down having been hit by an earthquake in 2007 which destroyed 80% of the town. Rebuilding in the town is still very apparent and along the roads linking Pisco to the Panamerican. There’s not much reason to go there to be honest, you can stay in Paracas which is a bit nicer and where the boats for the Islas Ballestas leave from, but hindsight is a wonderful thing! The hostel we stayed in (Hostal De Los Inkas) had been recommended by a fellow traveller and was lovely (bartered down to 50 soles per night). Destined for an early night due to an early start at the hostel for the tour the next day, we ventured out for our first Ceviche of Peru. Everyone had been raving about this delicacy but we weren’t impressed! Red onions and lime juice completely overpowered the flavour of the seafood. The Ceviche turned up with a slice of what looked like red bell pepper on it. Do not be fooled as Steve was! He put the whole thing in his mouth, just to find out it is one of the hottest chillis in Peru. I thought he was having an allergic reaction but his mouth was just on fire. Bless. We will definitely try Ceviche again somewhere else, just in case this is a one off.
 Pelicans before we get the boat to Islas Ballestas – the man throws scraps of fish at them and then asks us for a tip….like the pelicans wouldn’t be there anyway and I figure are a bit more expert at catching fish.
Pelicans before we get the boat to Islas Ballestas – the man throws scraps of fish at them and then asks us for a tip….like the pelicans wouldn't be there anyway and I figure are a bit more expert at catching fish.31-Jul-2009 14:06, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 50.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 100 |
Our Islas Ballestas tour began at 7.30am. We didn’t budget time for breakfast as we didn’t know the hostel did it so we only had bread and juice. The colectivo took us to Paracas, a half hour drive from Pisco. We were then bundled into groups eagerly awaiting our speedboats. While we waited, there was a large group of pelicans to our left so we watched those and a local feeding them fish for a tip from the tourists… The pelicans are huge birds with multicoloured beaks but they were dirtier than I’d imagined them – still fun to watch though! About 20 of us were herded onto a speedboat and donned our fluorescent orange life jackets. We could feel it was cold so quickly added all jumpers, jackets, gloves and hats that had been brought too. The boat set off, bouncing across the waves with the guide giving all info in Spanish then English and Steve being sprayed with water as he was beside the side of the boat. We could see islands looming in the distance and many birds dancing along the surface of the ocean. We stopped first at ‘The Candelabra’ – a giant image (128m high and 74m wide) of a candelabra carved in the sand. It wasn’t created by the Nazca people, although a similar method of creation was employed, as it is much deeper than the Nazca lines so this leads to three theories about its origin:
 Officially called the Candelabra, but some think it is more likely to be a cactus – this is older than the Nazca Lines and deeper.
Officially called the Candelabra, but some think it is more likely to be a cactus – this is older than the Nazca Lines and deeper.31-Jul-2009 14:33, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 35.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400 |
- It was actually a cactus or tree of life, not a candelabra, and priests worshipped the setting sun from it.
- A candelabra as a symbol of treasure to guide pirates (we like that one!)
- A symbol to guide aliens or spacecraft as the tip points towards the Nazca lines.
 If you’re scared of birds (Maxine), look away!
If you're scared of birds (Maxine), look away!31-Jul-2009 15:21, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 65.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400 |
Twenty minutes later and really cold, we arrived at the Islas Ballestas. Ballesta means ‘bow’ as in ‘bow and arrow’ in Spanish and the islands consist of scores of caves and arches eroded by the ocean. No-one is allowed on the islands (apart from once every 5 years to collect the Guano (or bird poo) which we’re told is an excellent fertilizer). They are home to literally hundreds of thousands of birds – Guano birds and Cormorants which swoop and dive all over the islands. It is spectacular and quite ‘Pirates of the Carribbean’-esque . The boat slowly circled the islands so we could see close up the variety of birdlife – many coloured beaks and eyes, especially the Cormorants, Incan terns and Peruvian boobies. We also, most spectacularly for me, saw PENGUINS!!!
 PENGUINS!!!!!!!!!!! We could have watched them waddle about for hours. They constantly have a look on their faces of ‘how on earth did I get up here?’
PENGUINS!!!!!!!!!!! We could have watched them waddle about for hours. They constantly have a look on their faces of 'how on earth did I get up here?'31-Jul-2009 15:11, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 105.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400 |
The first penguins I have seen that aren’t in captivity – they were awesome. They waddled over the rocks – South American penguins the guide ‘helpfully’ told us – they are actually Humboldt penguins. They then just sat watching us and looking up and down the rocks as if to say ‘how on earth did we get up here’. Really glad we have seen penguins on our travels! In addition, there were sealions (could the day get any better!) They were just lying on the rocks with their heads in the air. One jumped off the rocks into the sea and then started to clamber out again – like he was showing off.
 Mid head-scratch – the one on the left was obviously used to a boatload of people taking pictures in fluorescent orange jackets…
Mid head-scratch – the one on the left was obviously used to a boatload of people taking pictures in fluorescent orange jackets…31-Jul-2009 15:09, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 50.0mm, 0.013 sec, ISO 400 |
The noise from the birds was deafening – a cacophony of calls. One person on our boat was pooped on but thankfully not us. We cruised around for about half an hour, oohing and aahing at the scene – i’ve never seen so many birds in one place. One Cormorant caught and ate a fish as we watched. Words cannot describe the animals though, you really need to look for yourselves in the pictures below or even better, visit the Islas Ballestas! When we eventually (and sadly) sped off back to shore , arriving 30min later, we coffee’d up and started to plan our next adventure to Huacachina for some sand fun!
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The 3 musketeers plus guide about to set off.29-Jul-2009 14:35, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 22.0, 28.0mm, 0.02 sec, ISO 400 |
Starting our storm up the mountain, me in front – that wouldn't last long…29-Jul-2009 14:55, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 22.0, 28.0mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 400 |
We are aiming for the Lagoon Churup i.e. the 4450m one – didn't have ice picks for the top one thank goodness!29-Jul-2009 14:57, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 22.0, 48.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400 |
More a grimace than a smile but if you looked up that hill you'd grimace too…29-Jul-2009 15:23, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400 |
Pretty as a picture.29-Jul-2009 15:36, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400 |
Us in front of the mountain, the lagoon is before the snowy bit |
Ice on the ground – we set off early and it hadn't had time to defrost by this time.29-Jul-2009 16:13, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 28.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400 |
We had to climb this bit – Steve and I are sporting buff headgear to protect our heads from the scorching sun.29-Jul-2009 16:19, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 28.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 400 |
Waterfall created by the snow defrosting29-Jul-2009 16:26, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 35.0mm, 0.02 sec, ISO 100 |
Whoop whoop, the lagoon which is just over the next bit of rock! Hike supposed to take 3h, it took us 1.5h so I was very relieved to see this sign!29-Jul-2009 16:34, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 28.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 100 |
Oooooooh, pretty lagoon – the waters are gorgeous as you can see but bloody freezing so we weren't going for a dip anytime soon!29-Jul-2009 17:42, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 28.0mm, 0.013 sec, ISO 100 |
A really cool viewpoint – legs came out at this point to try and catch some sun…29-Jul-2009 17:24, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 28.0mm, 0.013 sec, ISO 100 |
Us relaxing with our little packed lunches – it was only 10am at this point though so I just opted for the chocolate |
Stunning scenery – it takes another day to get up that little bit of mountain to the top and back.29-Jul-2009 16:56, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 28.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 100 |
Cccccooooollllllddddddd….29-Jul-2009 16:56, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 48.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 100 |
View taken from the same spot as the mountain peak, just the other side of the viewpoint.29-Jul-2009 16:58, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 100 |
Another group thankful to get to the lagoon, they arrived after us though – obviously not storming up as fast as us despite their walking poles.29-Jul-2009 17:23, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 80.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 100 |
Reto, Steve and I posing…29-Jul-2009 17:43, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 100 |
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