 Our smiling faces overlooking the Tucume ruins.24-Jul-2009 21:03, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400 |
After whizzing through Ecuador with a small taster of Incan ruins, we were keen to explore Northern Peru and its Pre-Incan treasures which are often skipped out by travellers heading to Cusco at breakneck speed. We found rich history and better understood the history of these amazing civilisations; it’s not all just the Incas in South America… plus I lost something I’d been cultivating for some time, which unlike most gardening attempts hadn’t actually died on me yet.
 The End of Ecuador; and the Beginning of Peru!
The End of Ecuador; and the Beginning of Peru!22-Jul-2009 18:20, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400 |
After a mammoth amount of bus journeys we were looking forward to using our knees again. We had taken a bus from Cuenca to Loja ($7, 7hrs) arriving quite late, and then stayed in a Hostal literally next to the bus station (big bright lights, can’t miss it, seems to be the cheapest around at $10 pp for a double with private bath) we booked a bus ticket straight out of there at 6am in the morning to Piura ($8, 7hrs) in Peru. This conveniently offers a small amount of protection when crossing the border as the bus is keen to continue on its way and should any problems arise (such as police asking for money) they are likely to help out if any problems arise. It worked for us anyway, we managed to navigate our second land border with happily no unforeseen events and it was all over in about thirty minutes; the bus simply waits for you on the other side. They did also complete a quick Swine Flu check which includes pulse and blood pressure – oddly only to foreigners as apparently the natives are free to create a pandemic as they wish.
 About 90% of cars in Peru seemed to be taxis. In a traffic jam. Beeping. 24hrs a day. Heaven!
About 90% of cars in Peru seemed to be taxis. In a traffic jam. Beeping. 24hrs a day. Heaven!23-Jul-2009 17:28, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 200 |
On arrival to hot and dusty Piura about seven hours later, we hopped straight on another bus (12 soles, 4hrs) to then arrive in Chiclayo late at night. We didn’t have a hostel booked but managed to find Hostel Mochicas (45 soles for a double with bathroom, no breakfast), no Wi-Fi, but they did had a computer for internet access that we managed to pinch the RJ45 cable from for our laptop. A quiet place, not much in the way of socialising but then that seemed true of Chiclayo throughout; finding a bar was a virtual impossibility in this town. They also had a huge amount of taxis, probably 90% of all cars and they created a permanent yellow beeping traffic jam that kind of defeated the purpose of having roads at all.
 The relatively new Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipán in Lambayeque. Unforunately, no photos inside. Exceptional museum though!
The relatively new Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipán in Lambayeque. Unforunately, no photos inside. Exceptional museum though!23-Jul-2009 18:06, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 200 |
On our first full day in Peru, we woke and went for a wander. Beyond the main square and church, there didn’t seem to be a lot in Chiclayo worth seeing; only the different ruins and museums that lay around the town make it a good place to visit. On the first day we headed to the Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipan in Lambayeque. Easy enough to find a Colectivo to take us there, and only a short walk from where you are dropped off to the museum itself, which was built in 2003 to house the findings of the archaeological team at Huaca Rajada, in Sipan. Over the past few years, they have uncovered many insights into Moche culture, chiefly due to their undisturbed nature – the grave robbers hadn’t got there first and pilfered everything!
 Strike a pose!
Strike a pose!23-Jul-2009 20:14, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 83.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 200 |
There are no photos allowed in the museum, but Peruvian archaeologist Walter Alva has uncovered many treasures and twelve royal tombs to date filled with offerings dating back 1,800 years. The Moche culture existed in North Peru 100-750AD, and were famous for their excellent ceramics which did look fantastic; often depicting moving figures and even the occasional page from Kama Sutra. El Senor de Sipan is the Lord of Sipan that was uncovered in the last ten years with his rather unlucky family and work colleagues. When he died, only three months in we think, they were all doomed to be buried with him which seems a bit unfair. This includes the high priest, leading general, his servants and more, leaving a bit of a leadership gap we felt once they had all gone to the sun god in the sky. The museum itself is excellent although no English, but it is built in the style of the original pyramid and the route within chronicles the order in which the archaeologists made their finds.
After the museum, we headed back to Chiclayo to finish our mooch around the town. Or, rather, make a trip to a certain barbers that Lynette had convinced me it was time to visit. In memory of my facial friend, I have written this tribute;
What do you think? Could I be a musketeer?
What do you think? Could I be a musketeer?23-Jul-2009 22:23, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 55.0mm, 0.025 sec, ISO 200
My furry amigo, whose death was so unfair,
Your crime was excellence at being facial hair,
Each anecdote I regaled you were the first to cheer,
Every nod or shake I had your backing it was clear,
Near the end you even kept my food for later,
But to others unfortunately you felt like sandpaper.
That is why my friend you are being cut free,
To one day grow back, like blossom on a tree.
Yes we were close, but now it’s gone I am getting a lot more attention from Lynette again so there are definite bonuses 
. The monkeys will be disappointed they have lost their sweat lollipop.
 That’s 60p for a haircut, with free chocolate and coke. I told Lynette we’re coming back to Peru next time she wants a haircut…  )
That's 60p for a haircut, with free chocolate and coke. I told Lynette we're coming back to Peru next time she wants a haircut… |
That evening we decided that Chiclayo was a little tepid beyond the ruins themselves, there were no bars to speak of and the gringo quotient was rather low – sometimes a blessing but we were looking forward to nattering about Peru and route recommendations. So we decided that we would try to cram everything possible we had left to do in one day, and get a night bus straight to Trujillo. This meant the actual Huaca Rajada where the Lord of Sipan was found, and the famous Tucume ruins (both opposite sides of Chiclayo) in a short sharp burst of enthusiasm and then heading to Linea bus office/station for some travel options. Cautiously our heads hit pillows as it seemed an impossible task…
 Enough of the museum, on to Huaca Rajada, where the Lord of Sipan’s tomb was found!
Enough of the museum, on to Huaca Rajada, where the Lord of Sipan's tomb was found!24-Jul-2009 17:25, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 100 |
At 6:45am (Gasp! Almost like working!) the alarm went off and we stumbled our packs downstairs. We then ran around town looking for a Colectivo, our Footprint guidebook making no sense, and then succumbed to the ease of the taxi which took us to our stop. An hour later we were at Huaca Rajada admiring yet more Moche ceramics and gold to whet our appetite for the live archaeological complex itself. The excavations began in 1987 into the three crumbling pyramids that make up the site and have revealed a treasure chest of pre-Columbian history and art. I’ve mentioned above a bit more about what they found which is all described in the impressive Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipan. What was also very impressive was actually seeing the archaeologists at work, digging and scraping away (with exceptional care) to help uncover more secrets.
 The intricacy of the work and the difficulty in seperating sand from actual building is impressive.
The intricacy of the work and the difficulty in seperating sand from actual building is impressive.24-Jul-2009 17:22, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 70.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 100 |
It really is quite amazing; looking at the pyramids they would be hard to distinguish from gigantic eroded molehills, yet somehow they manage to separate years of mud and erosion from the original adobe bricks (more mud) that made the structure stand. It could of course be complete guesswork or an elaborate hoax, but that is just not cricket! A word of warning, there are a large amount of sand flies around the site and Lynette in her Capri pants had her legs eaten alive – two weeks later they still itch so wear long trousers when visiting! Having trundled around the site feeling sufficiently like Indiana Jones we headed back to the Colectivo stop and made our way back to Chiclayo for the afternoon’s trip to Tucume.
 A fascinating cartoon to enthuse the children; we think the natives are saying “He has a nice jacket, would he want to swap it for my very good condition cod piece?”
A fascinating cartoon to enthuse the children; we think the natives are saying “He has a nice jacket, would he want to swap it for my very good condition cod piece?”24-Jul-2009 20:34, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 50.0mm, 0.3 sec, ISO 400 |
Time of the essence, we got another taxi to a different Colectivo stop going in the direction of Tucume. Conveniently, the Colectivo we wanted was actually in a completely different area of Chiclayo (Go far North West, roughly Calle Angamos/Arica) so time savings were minimal. We did play a fascinating game of spot the Beetle though. Colectivos themselves are always fascinating experiences; imagine playing Mario Kart but with the twist being that you actually have to pick up and carry the bad guys to your final destination. You need to be quick, as they seem to be on a lap time whenever they complete a circuit; perhaps bonus points are available. You have to beep the horn incessantly and cut up other drivers in order to attract the bad guy’s attention, but thankfully they generally carry lots of bananas which you can use to screw over your competitors. Didn’t see so many mushrooms on the road, but there are lots of potholes and shortcuts, also pretty sure we got some air occasionally.
 In the background is Cerro Purgatorio, which we are about to climb up for a full view of the Tucume ruins.
In the background is Cerro Purgatorio, which we are about to climb up for a full view of the Tucume ruins.24-Jul-2009 20:57, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400 |
Once we arrived in Tucume, we headed right from the road and could immediately see the ruined city in the distance. Figuring that it wasn’t so far, and we could do with a walk, we set off for a fairly mundane but very achievable trek down the main road; being beeped at by Tuk-tuks (actually called Mototaxis here) on our way. Tucume itself is 35km north of Chiclayo, and a bit of a floozy when it comes to its inhabitants. Tucume has been inhabited by the Lambayeque people 800-1350AD (so after the Moche culture who were 100-750AD and responsible for the Sipan ruins), then the Chimu until 1450AD, who were then finally ousted by the Incas who ruled until the 1500s. Each successive culture built on top of the last and extended the cities foundations to the impressive twenty six major pyramids that are available today. Note the word pyramid seems to be used fairly loosely around here to describe great mounds of mud bricks with their tops lopped off.
 This is a model of how Tucume would have looked in its day, the large mountain is Cerro Pergaturio and now a viewing platform for the ruins.
This is a model of how Tucume would have looked in its day, the large mountain is Cerro Pergaturio and now a viewing platform for the ruins.24-Jul-2009 20:30, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.167 sec, ISO 400 |
On arrival at the museum, that fronts the entrance and allows access to the ruins itself, we hurried through the rather small exhibits themselves – which did sport a fascinating comic designed to enthuse the younger generation about dusty piles of mud – to begin the walk to the remains. Which was a bit of a mistake in itself, we hadn’t seen mosquitoes since Colombia due to our route and weren’t really prepared for the whining bombing run that heralded the hungry bastards attack. Lynette was a victim a couple of times, I managed to splat one on my arm that left behind a worrying amount of blood that I presumed to mostly be mine. Moving swiftly out of the forest, we began the walk through sandy tracks reminiscent of Tatooine to find the viewing platform of Cerro Purgatorio, the mountain that is assumed to be one of the major reasons the location was originally chosen for this city.
|
Our smiling faces overlooking the Tucume ruins.
Our smiling faces overlooking the Tucume ruins.24-Jul-2009 21:03, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400 |
A few steps up, and then a few more, the majesty of the area itself became clear. Tucume was built over 1,000 years ago, and being able to see the deserted layout of mud and sand surrounded by greenery of more recent civilisation is an impressive site to behold. You can imagine ancient cultures selling their goods, living in their houses, lopping off each other’s heads when the odd cloud appears, and generally behaving like a fully functional city, which is exactly what Tucume was. Not an isolated temple or desecrated burial ground, it was a great place to visit and something we definitely appreciated. Anyway, our days activities were done, we jumped in a Tuk-tuk (yes yes) and then a Colectivo to make it back to Chiclayo, before finding a bus to Trujillo (in the manic mess that is the half built Linea bus station there but enough of that we made it in the end!).
 It must have been hard posing for the sculptur for this long.
It must have been hard posing for the sculptur for this long.25-Jul-2009 22:25, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 105.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400 |
After a late night arrival (13 soles, 4hr bus) we checked into Casa de Clara our hostel for the next few days. Its in a great location, a bit of a walk to the center but the area is safe and residential. There is WiFi available throughout, but Clara herself is a bit of a tyrant and if take somebody else’s tour other than hers woe betide the consequences. She nearly wouldn’t let me out of the hostel, and twice ‘accidentally’ invaded our room while we were still in it. Plus they need to have more toilet rolls in there. It’s a good hostel, 40 soles with shared bathroom for a double no breakfast, but they need to do a bit of work on the customer service side of things. Anyway, after a late night arrival we chilled out in the hostel most of the next day, having booked our tickets out of Trujillo in advance to make sure of a good bus of on a long journey (45 soles with Linea, semibuscama, 9hrs, awesome bus). We also met up with Alex & Marie, a great couple of guys who convinced us to do a tour with them the next day instead of our usual DIY approach. Feeling flush, we thought why not, and we all met the next day for our tour with Huaca del Sol, Huaca de la Luna and Chan Chan being the major highlights. A few beers and a few more Chess victory points ensued for that evening…
 Huaca del Sol, the larger administrative complex of the two Huacas, you are no longer allowed to enter for both your safety and protection of the ruins.
Huaca del Sol, the larger administrative complex of the two Huacas, you are no longer allowed to enter for both your safety and protection of the ruins.26-Jul-2009 18:34, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 48.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400 |
The next day we headed off for our tour (30 soles for the day) to the various pre-Colombian landmarks that Trujillo is famous for. The main negative of the Thomas Cook approach is normally being part of a large herd and being on the peripherary of the sagey words of any guide. In our case we were lucky, we’d requested an English guide yet there were only us four English speakers anyway so had the devoted attention of an experienced local all day. A definite bonus! Our first stop was Huaca de La Luna, overlooked by Cerro Blanco and famous for its excellent condition considering its age. Its twin, Huaca del Sol is the larger, more imposing pyramid complex of the two and believed the be the administrative centre for the area while Huaca de La Luna was a temple and burial ground. The Conquistadors however believed Huaca del Sol to be the site of vast gold riches, and spent many resources plundering the site and even diverted a river to help erode away its foundations, ultimately destroying a third of it. The remains, while impressive, are now too dangerous for tourists to enter and its grand frame can only be appreciated at a distance, in its time it was the largest man made structure in the western hemisphere at 45m high.
 Behind us are the walls that overlooked the main plaza, with different depictions at each level.
Behind us are the walls that overlooked the main plaza, with different depictions at each level.26-Jul-2009 19:21, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 28.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 400 |
Huaca de La Luna however can be appreciated up close and personal; the murals that are continually being found during its excavation revealing much about the Moche (100-750AD) culture that built them. It received little attention until the 1990s, when extensive geometrical patterns and deity carvings were discovered. Of the seven levels, each represents a Moche generation of leadership. When that ruler passed away, his level was filled in and another built on top. As the excavations grow deeper, more and more is revealed about the history of the area while the remaining colours are either original or only partially restored and manage to paint a fantastic picture of what it would have looked like in its prime. The site itself is very popular, even on a week day there are many tours and it gets very busy! We found the site very impressive, especially the main plaza on the outside which would have all seven levels viewable at one time with a different repeated serpent, deity or working Mochican inscribed and coloured all the way around.
 It was quite amazing to think of the original structure being used, it has been restored to excellent condition.
It was quite amazing to think of the original structure being used, it has been restored to excellent condition.26-Jul-2009 22:05, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 28.0mm, 0.013 sec, ISO 400 |
Our next stop was Huaca El Dragon (also known as Huaca Arco Iris, meaning rainbow), a temple in one of the districts of Trujillo about 10m high. It has surrounding walls for defence, and an inside temple with glorious friezes and murals that decorate it throughout its adobe mud brick construction. One of the most interesting features of the temple was how well it conveyed the dangers of time and erosion. Our guide showed us a postcard of the temple fifty years ago and the difference immense, the entire structure covered with geometrical patterns and carved deities – now these are largely gone and the implication of what will remain in fifty years without proper conservation is clear.
 The glyph carvings are very retro… the pixel art parrot is a favourite.
The glyph carvings are very retro… the pixel art parrot is a favourite.26-Jul-2009 23:27, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 48.0mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 400 |
After a fairly boring museum (we were about done on ruins by now!) we made our to the penultimate stop of the day, Chan Chan city. These vast remains of the Imperial Chimu (1350-1450AD) city are the largest adobe city in the world, and this becomes abundantly clear as the bus careers down the main dirt track for a good fifteen minutes past ancient lumps of mud before we come to a stop. Our visit centred on the Imperial Palace, an immense structure protected by 9m high walls. Again, the restoration work is impressive but it comes with the destruction of much of the original walls themselves. This is very evident where near the back of the ruins the old walls have been completely replaced by modern brick, and then covered with an adobe cement mix to make them last significantly longer than the fifty years the city would otherwise have left from natural predators such as El Nino. On the one hand it is amazing to see the complex itself in a state that more easily allows you to picture pre-Colombian life, but on the other it is heart wrenching to realise that the conservation work itself is a necessary evil that ultimately means one day it will simply be a life size model of something that was once a glorious Chimu domain.
 The reed boats used by fisher men to this day, very good at cutting through the high waves of the Pacific.
The reed boats used by fisher men to this day, very good at cutting through the high waves of the Pacific.27-Jul-2009 00:39, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 400 |
Our final stop was Huanchaco beach, which was hard to fully appreciate as by the time we arrived it was dark. Its another tick box for the tour sales leaflet though, and we see some of the reed boats with their high arching bow that cuts through the Pacific ocean. The design and construction has not changed in over 1,500 years which is a testament to their effectiveness. They look quite funny though and would probably drown an untrained sailor pretty quickly!
 Plaza Mayer at night, where a groovy military band provide an orchestral background.
Plaza Mayer at night, where a groovy military band provide an orchestral background.27-Jul-2009 01:33, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 38.0mm, 0.25 sec, ISO 400 |
After a long day we headed back to the hostel for a welcome rest, before taking a night bus with Linea from Trujillo to Huaraz (45 soles, 9hrs), our next destination. All I can say is, wow. We had never been on a bus like it; leather seats with acres of space, a pillow and blanket, English film, a sandwich with a small desert and even a bit of fizzy pop (that tasted like dentist mouthwash, but you can’t have everything). The bus had mechanical problems near the end and took longer, we didn’t mind it meant we got a lie in! We hear that on Cruz del Sur, you even get internet Wi-Fi. Wowzer… no Megabus comparison coming though it just wouldn’t be fair. So off to Huaraz, time to start trekking in the Andes once more!
The famous witchcraft market in Chiclayo; a bit smaller than imagined but plenty of pigs trotter, dried iguana skin and other delights.23-Jul-2009 17:18, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 28.0mm, 0.025 sec, ISO 200 |
About 90% of cars in Peru seemed to be taxis. In a traffic jam. Beeping. 24hrs a day. Heaven!23-Jul-2009 17:28, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 200 |
A fine effort in hedge trimming!23-Jul-2009 17:54, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 105.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 200 |
The relatively new Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipán in Lambayeque. Unforunately, no photos inside. Exceptional museum though!23-Jul-2009 18:06, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 200 |
Strike a pose!23-Jul-2009 20:14, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 83.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 200 |
The new and imposing cathedral in Chiclayo.23-Jul-2009 21:52, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 200 |
Oh no! I'm being attacked! I only wanted a trim!23-Jul-2009 22:21, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 83.0mm, 0.025 sec, ISO 200 |
What do you think? Could I be a musketeer?23-Jul-2009 22:23, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 55.0mm, 0.025 sec, ISO 200 |
Another museum actually at the Sipan archeological site, devoted to the ruins and recently discovered Senor de Sipan.24-Jul-2009 16:12, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 28.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 100 |
The Mochicans were famous for their excellent and full of character ceramics.24-Jul-2009 15:35, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 105.0mm, 0.2 sec, ISO 200 |
This is a copy of one of the skeletons found in the huge tombs, an important archeological find as it was virtually untouched by graverobbers.24-Jul-2009 15:50, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.5 sec, ISO 200 |
A blurry photo of how Senor de Sipan might have looked when he was still able to walk.24-Jul-2009 15:53, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 75.0mm, 0.3 sec, ISO 100 |
Enough of the museum, on to Huaca Rajada, where the Lord of Sipan's tomb was found!24-Jul-2009 17:25, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 100 |
The site is still being extensively investigated and constantly releasing new information about the Moche culture.24-Jul-2009 16:43, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 100 |
Inside an excavated tomb, the original findings have been replicated to show you how they looked.24-Jul-2009 16:44, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.077 sec, ISO 100 |
Peru has put extensive effort into making the exhibit interesting and realistic.24-Jul-2009 16:47, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.05 sec, ISO 100 |
Over one hundred pots were found, and had been filled with water, llama milk, and other lovely things.24-Jul-2009 16:48, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 28.0mm, 0.02 sec, ISO 100 |
The archeologists hard at work, can't see Indiana Jones picking up a spade.24-Jul-2009 16:48, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 60.0mm, 0.02 sec, ISO 100 |
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Hi both! Looks amazing, monkeys are the best! Me and Tom having a good giggle over your piccies and v jealous!
Stay safe!