The obligatory pose; there are quite a few of these so I apologise in advance!19-Aug-2009 17:43, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
Having already visited one lost Incan city in Choquequirao and coming back only slightly disappointed and with one of us on crutches (guess who) we were a little apprehensive of visiting the more expensive and indecently touristic primary Incan offering from Peru, Machu Picchu. It would involve multiple but allegedly easy modes of transport, the stew pot of tourism that is Aguas Calientes, and we would finally be rewarded with the glorious postcard view of the ancient stone city nestled high in the Andean mountains. Would it fulfil the majestic fairytale that we’d been promised? Or would the potential highlight of our trip become a tour group with megaphone nightmare? Would we drink any more rum and yoghurt?!
The excitement begins! Our first stop is Ollantaytambo, where we take the train to Aguas Calientes.
The excitement begins! Our first stop is Ollantaytambo, where we take the train to Aguas Calientes.18-Aug-2009 17:36, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 35.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
In order to make the whole affair as stress free and enjoyable as possible, we decided to make the trip over three days, sandwiching Machu Picchu in the middle of two nights in the stopping point that is the town of Aguas Calientes, where the train stops before taking a bus to the infamous tourist honey pot itself. We booked our train tickets first online (print out the following PDF and just take this straight to the train station) at Perurail, a simple process, and then with the day of departure decided we visited Instituto Nacional de Cultura (INC) just off of Plaza de Armas in the centre of Cuzco to purchase our tickets to Machu Picchu itself. Leaving with only the bare essentials we took a Colectivo from Cuzco (at Calle Pavitos) to Ollantaytambo (it’s cheaper and quicker to take the train from here than from Cuzco), chilled out in a cafe for a while (Colectivo was over an hour quicker than expected!) and hopped on the fairly comfortable (damn right for the price!) train to Aguas Calientes. There we allowed ourselves to be accosted by two hostel reps who pleasingly bartered their way downwards between themselves before we selected one for 20 soles per person per night and made our way to Hostel Number One with a double room and private bathroom; after a change of gas it even had hot water. The total cost per person of “Machu Picchu the Lazy Way (But Acceptable If You Are On Crutches)” was;
Train ticket – $75 or 220 soles (paid in dollars).
Half of Taxi to Colectivo – $1 or 3 soles (soles).
Half of Colectivo – $3.5 or 10 soles (soles).
Machu Picchu Entrance ticket – $42 or 124 soles (soles).
Bus from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu itself – $14 or 38 soles (soles).
Half of two nights accommodation in Aguas Calientes – $14 or 40 soles (soles).
Total cost of roughly $150, 435 soles or £90 per person.
In short, an expensive day, and the bus from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu is absolute daylight robbery. I digress! So, one day at Machu Picchu is nearly 50% more than a four day hike that takes in the sites of Choquequirau, with the best bit that is the hike itself completely removed from the equation. What chance does Machu Picchu have?!
Aguas Calientes! Where the main high street is a train track all the way to Machu Picchu!
Aguas Calientes! Where the main high street is a train track all the way to Machu Picchu!19-Aug-2009 22:54, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 35.0mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 400
Aguas Calientes, on arrival, was a much better place than we had been led to believe. Even at a high altitude, somehow it manages to entertain a pleasantly warm tropical climate that lasts into the night, and is nestled in round peaked mountains that cut you completely off from the outside world. Which direction Machu Picchu lies in you have no idea. The main high street is essentially the train track you arrive in, and the local populace evades the main hornets’ nest of restaurants, bars, shops, hostels and internet cafes by being located a short distance the other side of a river with thin suspension bridges spanning its width to walk over. We’d been warned it was expensive, but the fierce competition between different establishments makes the prices fairly attractive; this is the first place I have been to where you actually barter over the price of food; we were offered meals listed at 40 soles immediately at 20 soles and with a free Pisco sour. We went for these the first night; the second we found the 15 soles set meals were even better value with a starter, main course, and a free glass of wine or Pisco sour. Happy hours run all day, and offer four or five beers (or Pisco Sours or Cubra Libres) plus garlic bread (or Nachos) for only 20 soles. Kept us going!
On to Machu Picchu, seconds before seeing the famous view Lynette is just double checking we’re defintely in the right place.
On to Machu Picchu, seconds before seeing the famous view Lynette is just double checking we’re defintely in the right place.19-Aug-2009 17:21, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
The other convenience of staying two nights is the removal of the need to get up exceptionally early. If you’re looking for a relatively tranquil encounter with the legendary blocks of stone then you need to avoid any time between 10am and 3pm, which is the busy time for tourists. For most, this means aiming to arrive at the entrance at around 4am to be first in the queue when the doors open (at six I think). This generally also means hiking for one and a half hours up the hill from Aguas Calientes, in the dark with a torch, as the Dick Turpin buses don’t start until 5am. Thankfully, the knee injury means an easy answer to all difficult questions and we opted to stay in bed, have a lie in and a leisurely breakfast, before arriving around 10am. As we had the luxury of staying until around 5pm – we’d just have our quiet time at the end of the day rather than the beginning! Tough stuff.
And here’s an inquisitive lizard; quite a variety of wildlife mincing about the neighbourhood!
And here’s an inquisitive lizard; quite a variety of wildlife mincing about the neighbourhood!19-Aug-2009 17:31, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 105.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
So at 10am arrive we did. In quite a bad mood to be honest, our leisurely morning had culminated in an additional expensive take out coffee, with a badly fitting lid, that needed intense concentration to ensure it didn’t spill its scalding contents all over our hands on the bus on the way up to Machu Picchu. That and the most expensive thirty minutes of transport we’d taken to date had put furrows on our brows and a grump in our step. We were making it very hard for Machu Picchu to impress. As we made it through the entrance, noting that we probably didn’t now have enough for a guide, and that the resident restaurant served an almuerzos buffet (normally 3 soles back in normal-ville) was 100 soles up on top, we started the short hike in sweltering heat to the guard house, near the main viewing point for the whole site.
One of the best photos we managed to take of the city, oh for a wide angle lens.
One of the best photos we managed to take of the city, oh for a wide angle lens.19-Aug-2009 17:40, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
As soon as the celebrated city stretched out over the mountain plateau, every bad memory of the morning was erased. The view, even though plastered over every postcard and copied in every guide book that even begins with P, was immense. Proudly displayed on the flat saddle of a mountain, spilling its sides in agricultural terraces further down the steep sides, dominated to the rear by the round topped shadow of Huayna Picchu and moated on all sides by sheer drops to the flowing waters of Urubamba river only to abruptly rise to a colossal range of mountains that encircle the entire spectacle, this particular lost Incan city was worth every sole spent. Perhaps our imagination had run wild with Choquequirau, perhaps our ears had grown sore from the moanings on Machu Picchu – either way we were suddenly tremendously excited about exploring the tight and varied knot of buildings that spread out below us.
”Hi, I’m an ancient Incan lawn mower. I keep the main plaza’s grass in the tidy, neat state you see today.“
”Hi, I’m an ancient Incan lawn mower. I keep the main plaza’s grass in the tidy, neat state you see today.“19-Aug-2009 18:14, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
We stopped for a quick snack first, and pointed fingers at a few most conveniently placed Llamas that were also milling around for the view. I stopped laughing when one of them did a running round house kick at a tourist who ventured too close – and also stopped trying to venture a pose with him myself. Again, we lamented the photography skills of the natives who are determined to block the landmark you’re obviously trying to include in the photo with your own huge heads, and cursed at those particular nationalities that just don’t understand personal space. You might get the impression we were becoming cynical travellers; hopefully we’ll just get a mini tripod before the next section of the trip!
The ancient Incan observatory, a popular spot for extrapolating the technilogical history of the civilisation.
The ancient Incan observatory, a popular spot for extrapolating the technilogical history of the civilisation.19-Aug-2009 18:35, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 70.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
Whether or not we were lucky with the number of tourists I don’t know, allegedly approaching 3,000 a day the sardines in a tin feeling we expected didn’t materialise and we were able to see and photograph what we wanted without too many issues. Yes the occasional whistle to gather spreading groups was off-putting, but the threat of rounding up via megaphone didn’t happen, and neither did the five minute queues to reach particular spots. Lynette and I had a great time jumping and crutching around the place and were genuinely amazed by the varied buildings and sights that were available to see. Our only regret was not more research in advance to better understand how the logistics and culture of the city would have worked in its time, something else to add to the ever expanding “to do” list.
The Sacred Rock, said to be so due its mirroring of the mountain scape behind.
The Sacred Rock, said to be so due its mirroring of the mountain scape behind.19-Aug-2009 21:07, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 35.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
Constructed in 1462 at the height of the Incan empire, Machu Picchu was abandoned less than 100 years later. It is located only 80km from the Incan capital of Cusco, yet the Spanish never discovered and plundered the area which helps to explain its excellent condition. There are countless bones of contention over the site, including plans to build a cable car, more bridges, that a stone was moved just to accommodate a helipad – only for all flying to be banned over the site shortly afterwards. In 2007 it was listed as one of the Seven New Wonders of the World, quite understandably, but in 2008 it was also placed on the WMF’s 100 Endangered Sites list due to the continuing impact of tourism. Of all the ruins we have been to visit in South America, it is absolutely true that Machu Picchu is the most impressive and it is humbling to visit in our lifetimes. The one thing that South America has given us a thirst for while travelling is a better understanding of the history and culture of the world, and Machu Picchu is a great lynchpin to hook all our other explorations on to.
One of the last and best shots of Machu Picchu, as the sun goes down it gets ready for another day.
One of the last and best shots of Machu Picchu, as the sun goes down it gets ready for another day.19-Aug-2009 22:13, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
So, lost Incan cities – done. Peru – nearly done. Only one more stop before we hit our last main country, Bolivia. We’re already running way behind on schedule, and squeezing time in to write these entries is getting tougher so I hope you’re still enjoying reading them! See you back in the UK in about five weeks!
The excitement begins! Our first stop is Ollantaytambo, where we take the train to Aguas Calientes.18-Aug-2009 17:36, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 35.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
Aguas Calientes! Where the main high street is a train track all the way to Machu Picchu!19-Aug-2009 22:54, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 35.0mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 400
Surrounded by mountains clothed in tropical jungle, it is surprisingly warm and a place we really liked.19-Aug-2009 14:26, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
On to Machu Picchu, seconds before seeing the famous view Lynette is just double checking we’re defintely in the right place.19-Aug-2009 17:21, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
The guard house at the top of the main viewpoint, not sure how native the Llamas are to the city but they don’t like visitors.19-Aug-2009 17:24, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 75.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
And here’s an inquisitive lizard; quite a variety of wildlife mincing about the neighbourhood!19-Aug-2009 17:31, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 105.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
One of the best photos we managed to take of the city, oh for a wide angle lens.19-Aug-2009 17:40, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
Visiting one of the most famous landmarks in the world is every bit as amazing as you might hope.19-Aug-2009 18:13, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
In the background is Waynu Picchu, an early sprint will get you a ticket to climb this great viewpoint at either 7am or 10am.19-Aug-2009 18:18, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
The obligatory pose; there are quite a few of these so I apologise in advance!19-Aug-2009 17:43, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
”Hi, I’m an ancient Incan lawn mower. I keep the main plaza’s grass in the tidy, neat state you see today.“19-Aug-2009 18:14, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
The swarm of tourist ants marching through the ruins, could be worse, could be actual six foot high ants.19-Aug-2009 18:01, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 105.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
Surprisingly nimble, able to perform round house kicks on demand, these terraces pose no problem for natural climbers.19-Aug-2009 18:10, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 105.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
By previous example, we assume this is a glorious thrown carried by workers overdosed on Coca leaves.19-Aug-2009 18:19, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
A closer view of the city that stretches before you from the top viewpoint.19-Aug-2009 18:24, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
The ancient Incan observatory, a popular spot for extrapolating the technilogical history of the civilisation.19-Aug-2009 18:35, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 70.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
The “Three Windows” temple. Not sure why, it blatently has at least seven!19-Aug-2009 19:04, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
Many attempted shots to make the trapezoidal windows feel wanted once more.19-Aug-2009 19:05, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 60.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
While slightly crumbling due to past earthquakes, the construction ability of the Incans is astounding.19-Aug-2009 19:06, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
Every block is carefully chiselled to perfection, requiring no cement or other fixer to hold it in place.19-Aug-2009 19:18, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 65.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
A cheeky chappy, who happily makes the 500m round trip to nibble on tourist droppings daily.19-Aug-2009 19:19, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 105.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
Looking back from the city at the Guard House, near where most photos of the famous city view are taken.19-Aug-2009 19:23, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 105.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
This ancient block is believed to be a sundial; they have several guards to stop you touching it.19-Aug-2009 19:26, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
Again looking back at the Guard House helps to convey the immensity of the site.19-Aug-2009 19:27, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
Looking over the side you can see the deep canyon that winds its way around the complex.19-Aug-2009 19:31, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 28.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400
A quiet spot away from the hustle where we sat for lunch and read our books for a while, how cultured!19-Aug-2009 19:51, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 28.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
The Sacred Rock, said to be so due its mirroring of the mountain scape behind.19-Aug-2009 21:07, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 35.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
The entrance gate to climb Waynu Picchu behind, being on crutches meant a no no but avoiding the morning dash.19-Aug-2009 21:09, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
Looking across the main plaza up at the Observatory, archaeologists were working so the area was mercifully kept clear.19-Aug-2009 21:20, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
Slightly to the right, their fondness for parallel lines and symmetary is part of the beauty of Incan architecture.19-Aug-2009 21:20, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
Almost all Incan walls slope slightly inwards, occasionally found pairless they are assumed to be part of a much larger room.19-Aug-2009 21:23, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
Looking back up at the Guard House from a different point, you get the idea!19-Aug-2009 21:26, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400
The sign says “Condor Right”. Me thinks they’d be better off flying straight ahead…19-Aug-2009 21:35, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
The Condor! Requiring an immensely wide angle lens, the ringed off section is the head and the two rocks spreading upwards create the wings.19-Aug-2009 21:35, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 28.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 400
I apologise for the number of “Machu Picchu with Waynu Picchu in the Background” shots; its the best kind when you’re here. Unless you want close ups of bricks. Lots of them.19-Aug-2009 22:06, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
One of the last and best shots of Machu Picchu, as the sun goes down it gets ready for another day.19-Aug-2009 22:13, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
Although this shot is even better, coz it has us splat in the middle of it. )19-Aug-2009 22:17, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
The excitement begins! Our first stop is Ollantaytambo, where we take the train to Aguas Calientes.
Aguas Calientes! Where the main high street is a train track all the way to Machu Picchu!
On to Machu Picchu, seconds before seeing the famous view Lynette is just double checking we’re defintely in the right place.
And here’s an inquisitive lizard; quite a variety of wildlife mincing about the neighbourhood!
One of the best photos we managed to take of the city, oh for a wide angle lens.
”Hi, I’m an ancient Incan lawn mower. I keep the main plaza’s grass in the tidy, neat state you see today.“
The ancient Incan observatory, a popular spot for extrapolating the technilogical history of the civilisation.
The Sacred Rock, said to be so due its mirroring of the mountain scape behind.
One of the last and best shots of Machu Picchu, as the sun goes down it gets ready for another day.
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