Whistling down Rio Yacuma enjoying the awesome kind of trek that is sitting down all day and just enjoying the view.27-Aug-2009 20:30, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 13.0, 28.0mm, 0.0025 sec, ISO 1600
South America is famous for many things, one of which is the largest rainforest in the world, the Amazon. It touches many countries, and after a change of plans near the start of our trip we’d patiently waited until one of the last countries we were to visit to venture into something that really classed as “Jungle”. Which is odd, because technically it was Pampas we were exploring which is entirely different. Anyway, our departure point was Rurrenabaque, North Bolivia, and our destination was Rio Yacuma, a hotbed of wildlife that we were to leisurely observe for the next few days, and it truly was an excellent trip. Would we find any Anaconda? Did we really see Pink Dolphins? And who won the UK versus Taiwan Piranha fishing contest?
Note: 1 GBP = ~11 Bolivianos at time of writing.
Crossing the very helpful Bolivian border, most locals believe Peru does not have toilets.
Crossing the very helpful Bolivian border, most locals believe Peru does not have toilets.24-Aug-2009 22:36, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.0080 sec, ISO 400
We arrived in La Paz after an uncomfortable eight hours on the bus from Puno and happily trotted into a taxi from the main bus station in the highest capital in the world, safe in the knowledge we knew exactly where we were going as we had booked a Footprint recommended hostel in advance. Unfortunately planning ahead is just asking for trouble, especially when the guidebook has such glowing reports as “Renovated in March 2008, helpful, friendly, laundry service and local knowledge”. Lynette managed to sum up Posada El Carretero (Catacora 1056) in much fewer words; like prison. There were clumps of hair on the bathroom floor, drawings on the wall, bars on the window and you could feel a small electrical current whenever you tried the tap in the shower. However it was exceedingly cheap at sixty bolivianos a night and we only had to endure the one. We quickly hurried through dingy dark streets to meet up with our Latvian friends Dagmara & Martins in the far nicer Wild Rover Backpacker’s Hostel for a quick drink, only to find they’d given up and gone to bed. Martins was never one to back out too easily though, and after a rousing from the hostel owner he joined us for a quick sip of beer and a general agreement to meet in Uyuni in a week or so. In the meantime Lynette and I agreed that we needed to get out of La Paz as soon as possible – big cities just aren’t that interesting when travelling, you can only photograph so many churches.
The back of our far from luxury 20hr bus from La Paz to Rurrenabaque, proudly depicting Thor the Thundergod. On the right is another bus, with an ass kicking fellow from Dragonball Z.
The back of our far from luxury 20hr bus from La Paz to Rurrenabaque, proudly depicting Thor the Thundergod. On the right is another bus, with an ass kicking fellow from Dragonball Z.25-Aug-2009 18:07, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 53.0mm, 0.0040 sec, ISO 400
To visit Rurrenabaque and the Pampas in a week we’d have to be quick, so at 08:30 I headed into TAM offices to check on a flight later that day to Rurrenabaque. There were none for another three days, which meant that Lynette and I would have to endure the much less appealing option of a twenty hour bus held together with string careering over a bumpy road towards our destination. Still, it would be much cheaper. First, we hopped in a taxi to Oliver’s Travels, where the excessively priced book exchange potentially offered a small ray of light for the marathon bus trip. Then, we took another taxi to the main bus station, feeling very conscious that the bus allegedly left at 11am, in about twenty minutes by now. We then found out that it doesn’t actually leave from there at all, it leaves from Villa Fatima, in El Alto (a semi city that surrounds the lip of the crater that La Paz itself is in). We managed to arrive in time, quickly realising our worst nightmares when every single bus was blatantly on its last legs and belched fumes at anybody who dared to think otherwise. A small amount of negotiation later (as in, he lied his ass off to sell us a bus ticket) we had two seats for fifty bolivianos each and only managed to leave two hours late for Rurrenabaque.
Having started our Pampas tour within 3hrs of arriving, after another 4hrs by bouncing jeep we arrived at Rio Yacuma.
Having started our Pampas tour within 3hrs of arriving, after another 4hrs by bouncing jeep we arrived at Rio Yacuma.26-Aug-2009 19:22, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.0080 sec, ISO 400
Amazingly, especially considering the random drugs search and flat tyre en route, we arrived early at 7am and could potentially fulfil our hope of starting a Pampas tour that very same day, albeit in a somewhat zombie like state after not much sleep. After a quick hunt between different agencies, including the incredibly over priced ones that are recommended in the guide book, we settled on Dolphin Tours, who won us over with competitive pricing and the promise they do not adversely interfere with the natural environment. They would even book our plane tickets for us while we were away so everything was looking good. The three day trip cost 450 bolivianos including everything except park entry at 150 bolivianos; you can’t get much cheaper around here. A spot of breakfast later, we hopped into our jeep with its crazy paving windscreen and set off on our road trip to Rio Yacuma, our bums groaning at spending yet another five hours mostly sitting down. Lunch was supplied in almuerzos fashion, and we broke bread with our new travelling companions, Alicia and Rita from Taiwan who’d just spent the last two years volunteering in Paraguay and as such spoke excellent Spanish. Looking forward to the tour with a good small group we made our way to the boats for what quickly set the scene for the next few days.
Of all the animals we saw, the turtles were by far the most hilariously lens friendly.
Of all the animals we saw, the turtles were by far the most hilariously lens friendly.26-Aug-2009 19:31, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 105.0mm, 0.0040 sec, ISO 400
In a word, that scene was peaceful. In several words, it was amazing, beautiful and one of the best things we have done in South America so far. The tranquillity that flows over you, when sitting in a boat slowly putting down Rio Yacuma seeing flamingos, caiman, turtles, capybara, storks, hawks, birds of paradise, eagles, dolphins, monkeys and much much more is absolutely astounding. The strong sun calmed by a gentle breeze, you watch as nature takes its course – birds with flapping fish in their mouths soar past you, alligators quietly slink into the muddy waters with all seeing eyes, and turtles slowly rearrange themselves into a variety of poses seemingly just to give the entire scene an edge of humour. At that point, heading towards our lodge for the next two nights, I thought that if every day for the rest of your life was filled with time spent just like this, it would be a very happy life.
The view of the sunset from the bar, you keep expecting the Big Four to sprint across the view.
The view of the sunset from the bar, you keep expecting the Big Four to sprint across the view.26-Aug-2009 23:10, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 22.0, 35.0mm, 0.3 sec, ISO 200
We arrived at the lodge, where Eagle Eyes (our guide) assured us that there were no mosquitoes around at all. Slightly difficult to believe we thought, especially when every room was air locked with netting and each bed had its own mosquito net. Obviously just for show. Quickly we scooted over to the conveniently located pub lodge about thirty seconds walk from our own to watch the sunset with about thirty other explorers who had to boat across. The scene was more like the plains of Africa than somewhere in Bolivia and we kept expecting to see lions and gazelles loping across the grass. Once dark had hit, we headed back to our lodge for the first of many excellent meals cooked by the resident chef who fantastically seemed determined to cook for ten even though there was only four in the group – my belly was a happy organ. The planned night trip to spot Caiman was shelved for the next night due to a lack of batteries in Eagle Eyes’ torch, which happily meant another couple of candlelight beers for me and Lynette back at the pub listening to crickets and watching blinking fire flies in the jungle. Hearing the large splash of an alligator quickly followed by the escaping squawk of a duck was quite funny.
27-Aug-2009 13:57, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 105.0mm, 0.00625 sec, ISO 1600
The next day we woke to what sounded like a herd of snorting pigs, but we assumed to be refilling water tanks. We were then told it was a tribe of howler monkeys happily taking the place of cockerels in the dawn chorus. The calls and coos of the local birds were in fairness a lot more pleasing to the ear. After a fabulous breakfast we were off for a slightly less sedate activity than the day before, Anaconda hunting. We’d been told we only had a fifty fifty chance of spotting the famous resident reptile, which didn’t make the sweaty hike through unrelenting vegetation in hot and humid jungle air any easier. More new wildlife was spotted, including large red crabs (mainly post meal shells), angry wasp nests and sleeping monkeys as we hiked up the river bank eyes peeled.
The Anaconda Cobra found our presence particularly hilarious.
The Anaconda Cobra found our presence particularly hilarious.27-Aug-2009 15:25, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 105.0mm, 0.003125 sec, ISO 1600
As we played contortionist through a network of tree branches Eagle Eyes ushered us quickly over to a large clump of bushes where a familiar pattern slithered quickly out of vision. Not wasting an instant, he disappeared into the undergrowth while we strained to see the Anaconda. I saw another flash of snake skin to the left, while he was rummaging to the right, and was worried the glimpse we’d had would be it. After a minute or two he emerged with a snake wrapped around his arm and explained there had actually been four Anaconda Cobra attempting to escape, one of which had been the other I’d seen. At this point we were a little worried; one of the reasons we’d picked Dolphin Tours was their claim to respect nature, and did not want to be a part of tormenting the poor creature by draping him over our shoulders for a photo opportunity. He reassured us by simply placing the Anaconda Cobra on the ground for it to gain its bearings before returning home, while we took a closer look and yes a couple of photos.
27-Aug-2009 17:01, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 105.0mm, 0.0020 sec, ISO 1600
Entertainingly at this point Eagle Eyes’ Bolivian heritage began to sneak through, and where previously I had though him mainly talking only to me was that it was only my name he could remember, he then told the girls to stay put while him and I went on a mini expedition to find more. They were understandably a bit put out by this and we reminded him to treat us equally and we’d all go wherever he wanted to take us. Then he explained we’d be trudging through waist deep water, and it was agreed that maybe the original plan was the best one. So off we trudged, into swamp territory with inch thick roots and branches specifically designed to hamper and trip all ye who enter here. The plan had been to find an Anaconda who had recently had a large meal, as they then lie still digesting their feast for up to a month before moving on. Sadly we found none, and after hooking back up with Lynette, Alicia and Rita and emptying our boots of water we all headed back to the boat, happy that we’d ended up on the right side of the coin in our Anaconda expedition.
”Hey turtles, either of you have a tin opener on you? Feeling peckish…“
”Hey turtles, either of you have a tin opener on you? Feeling peckish…“27-Aug-2009 16:57, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 105.0mm, 0.003125 sec, ISO 1600
Back to the lodge for a stomach stretching lunch and an attempted siesta, the soothing sounds of the jungle occasionally punctuated by dislodged bits of tree falling on the tin roof as the monkeys merrily played away in the canopy above. In my case the break was a chance to catch the couple of hours of power that were available each day from the local generator and catch up on this blog. Over the course of the three days Lynette and I took over 1,500 photos – every minute of cutting this down counted! A couple of hours later and we were back on the boat for a relaxing afternoon spotting more riverside wildlife, but this time with swimming costumes on underneath in case we fancied a dip with the famous Pink Dolphins. We’d seen a couple fleetingly on the way to the lodge the day before, but only a glimpse of their side or the splash of a fin. We’d hoped to see more of this Amazonian based river mammal, and when we reached a large opening in the river and saw the familiar ripples I jumped in hoping to intrigue them into showing us a bit more flesh, so to speak.
Instead, they far more enjoyed a teasing game of hide and seek.
Instead, they far more enjoyed a teasing game of hide and seek.27-Aug-2009 20:59, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 105.0mm, 0.003125 sec, ISO 1600
Sadly they remained elusive, and while we saw them several times at different points in the water, no amount of boat tapping, underwater clapping or playing follow the splash could get them to perform flying loops or backwards swimming tricks. Perhaps we should have bought a volley ball. On returning back to the boat, and spotting alligators not far by, Eagle Eyes assured me that I had been in no danger, where you find dolphins you don’t find alligators, caiman or piranha. Apparently. We then headed back to the lodge again, which was a shame as Lynette et al had all been geared up to have a paddle in Rio Yacuma but we hadn’t realised that would be our only stop. Reassured in the fact that I now had a slight river pong about me the feeling was short lived and nothing that a spot of chilling out in hammocks followed by a yet another banquet couldn’t fix. That and a beer over sunset.
Our ever cheery chef produced a lovely bottle of Bolivian wine on our last night. We liked him.
Our ever cheery chef produced a lovely bottle of Bolivian wine on our last night. We liked him.28-Aug-2009 01:07, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.01666666 sec, ISO 400
We then headed out for the activity we’d had planned the night before, spotting caiman and alligator at night. Armed with torches and doused in insect repellent (we’d all had a couple of bites so far), we crossed the river and walked a short distance to a lagoon where a quick flash of the torch revealed tens of the reptiles lying in wait along the banks. This wasn’t the real danger however, the swarms of mosquitoes were far more worrying and sure enough when we returned to the lodge Lynette found that the insect repellent had protected her bare skin just fine, they’d simply decided it was easier to spear straight through her trousers and my poor wife now had four or five vicious looking bumps around her knees. So a part of our body we could now both moan about. We finished off the evening by tucking into a bottle of Bolivian wine our hosts had kindly presented to us (with absolutely no thought as to cementing a tip) together with a Spanglish overview of the wildlife we’d seen from Eagle Eyes our guide. The parts we interpreted contained genuine surprises, apparently there were jaguar in the area also and during wet season they would skulk in the banks and even attack dolphins; he had seen several decimated carcases over the many years he’d spent in the area. Poor buggers. Tired after a full day, we headed to bed.
Chunks of beef at the ready, a hard morning of Piranha fishing was about to start.
Chunks of beef at the ready, a hard morning of Piranha fishing was about to start.28-Aug-2009 13:54, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 45.0mm, 0.00625 sec, ISO 800
On the final day of our tour we were off for something I’d been looking forward to; Piranha fishing. A little competition between nationalities made it even more appealing. We headed off in the boat to a slightly shaded spot, and Eagle Eyes ceremoniously handed us our rods and bait. Basically plastic twine wrapped around a wooden block the size of a match box, and a few cubes of beef to get the nipper’s interest. We cast off, and were surprised to found the apparatus quite effective with Lynette first off the bat and a Piranha flapping around the inside of the boat. Over the next hour or so, Lynette managed a winning tally of eleven Piranha, with me trailing at seven. Combined, the Taiwanese only managed seven themselves so the United Kingdom can rest safe in its reputation of a nation of fishermen (conveniently ignoring the island status of Taiwan). We then took our haul back to the lodge, where I helped Eagle Eyes gut and clean the fish ready for consumption.
Showing the rather effective teeth of this little beastie…
Showing the rather effective teeth of this little beastie…28-Aug-2009 14:55, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 105.0mm, 0.0025 sec, ISO 800
Martins had warned us before that he’d found the little blighters quite indestructible, reminding him of a Terminator. I wholeheartedly concur. Even when they’d been removed of their innards and washed in the river, they still had the ability to clamp their teeth around their fingertips and cling to survival so the whole exercise required care. Interestingly, after a few fish had been washed the next time my hand went in the river with a gutted piranha I’d suddenly find a bunch of live ones thrashing in the water attempting to nibble away at the food I was holding. These guys just don’t give up, ever. They do taste pretty excellent when fried up for dinner however, although you’d need quite a few for a full meal!
Lynette noted how the bird on the right looks exceptionally like a man in a costume just wandered into view…
Lynette noted how the bird on the right looks exceptionally like a man in a costume just wandered into view…27-Aug-2009 20:41, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 105.0mm, 0.0025 sec, ISO 1600
Our tour now basically over, we had our last meal and jumped in the boat for a high speed last trip down the river to the waiting jeep. We had a plane to catch. Our fingers were crossed, we’d managed to somehow arrange some tight but effective logistics around travelling from La Paz to Rurrenabaque and just hoped the agency had done as promised, booking the tickets and meeting us at the airport with the bag we’d left behind so that we could board the plane with minimum stress and effort. When we were actually driven to the agency office instead of the airport, and told to pick the tickets up from the TAM office ourselves with only thirty minutes before the plane was supposed to head off we were understandably a little annoyed, but thankfully everything worked out well and the plane was even late which meant we could have had loads of time.
Waiting patiently for our TAM flight back to La Paz. No VIP area available.
Waiting patiently for our TAM flight back to La Paz. No VIP area available.28-Aug-2009 22:40, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 28.0mm, 0.02 sec, ISO 800
Tired, happy, and sad that the whole trip was over, we arrived back in La Paz and managed to find a great hostel at a very late hour. Bunker Hostel is right next to Wild Rover Hostel (so go there for the social life) and you can even pick up their Wi-Fi if you’re lucky. A double room (shared bathroom) with breakfast cost us eighty bolivianos for the night and was a great deal. I did manage to negotiate a discount, but this vanished when I then slipped in the bathroom and smashed a window with my elbow. These things happen. I blame Happy Hour.
Crossing the very helpful Bolivian border, most locals believe Peru does not have toilets.24-Aug-2009 22:36, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.0080 sec, ISO 400
The back of our far from luxury 20hr bus from La Paz to Rurrenabaque, proudly depicting Thor the Thundergod. On the right is another bus, with an ass kicking fellow from Dragonball Z.25-Aug-2009 18:07, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 53.0mm, 0.0040 sec, ISO 400
Having started our Pampas tour within 3hrs of arriving, after another 4hrs by bouncing jeep we arrived at Rio Yacuma.26-Aug-2009 19:22, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.0080 sec, ISO 400
Of all the animals we saw, the turtles were by far the most hilariously lens friendly.26-Aug-2009 19:31, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 105.0mm, 0.0040 sec, ISO 400
A Capybara, an animal we didn’t even know existed until taking this tour. Imagine a guinea pig and a rat had an exceptionally large child, a Capybara would be the result.26-Aug-2009 19:43, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 105.0mm, 0.0080 sec, ISO 400
Birds of Paradise, or otherwise known as ‘Stinky Turkeys’ apparently. A bit unfair we think.26-Aug-2009 19:54, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 105.0mm, 0.0125 sec, ISO 400
In the Symmetrical Standoff final, the other five found it hard not to blame Dave for snatching defeat from the jaws of victory.26-Aug-2009 19:57, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 40.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400
The generous fellow then donated the contents of his mouth to his baby Storklings.26-Aug-2009 20:11, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 105.0mm, 0.0025 sec, ISO 400
A family of Capybaras, including some exceptionally cute ickle babies.26-Aug-2009 20:18, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 6.3, 105.0mm, 0.0040 sec, ISO 1600
One of the many lurking Alligators that quietly watch the banks of Rio Yacuma.26-Aug-2009 20:23, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 105.0mm, 0.0020 sec, ISO 1600
A dead tree, whose last act was to save one branch from a splintered death on the jungle floor.26-Aug-2009 20:26, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 13.0, 70.0mm, 0.0015625 sec, ISO 1600
A cheeky squirrel monkey, who mainly came so close as they were on the hunt for chocolates. A big no!26-Aug-2009 20:36, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 48.0mm, 0.0040 sec, ISO 1600
Like all monkeys, they are effortlessly adorable and pose ever so helpfully.26-Aug-2009 20:36, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 55.0mm, 0.0040 sec, ISO 1600
Another bird… we plan on revisiting this once we have our ornithology degree…26-Aug-2009 21:04, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 105.0mm, 0.003125 sec, ISO 1600
Bob was fairly certain the almighty fart he was brewing might clear him a bit more log space once more.26-Aug-2009 21:38, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 105.0mm, 0.0040 sec, ISO 1600
Annual erosion and the refusal of the trees to let go creates an impressive root network for display on the river bank.26-Aug-2009 21:46, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 40.0mm, 0.02 sec, ISO 1600
Our local pub, and conveniently connected by an Ewok style walkway to our own lodge about thirty seconds away.27-Aug-2009 20:25, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 14.0, 28.0mm, 0.0020 sec, ISO 1600
This friendly chappy lay motionless on the pub’s bank just waiting for somebody without a zoom lens to venture too close…26-Aug-2009 23:16, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 105.0mm, 0.06666667 sec, ISO 200
The view of the sunset from the bar, you keep expecting the Big Four to sprint across the view.26-Aug-2009 23:10, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 22.0, 35.0mm, 0.3 sec, ISO 200
Lynette found this frog hopping around the undergrowth; they get everywhere, including the toilet!27-Aug-2009 01:10, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 105.0mm, 0.01666666 sec, ISO 400
Lynette and I shared a beer by candle light on the first night, listening to crickets and watching fireflies flicker.27-Aug-2009 02:41, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 105.0mm, 0.4 sec, ISO 200
Eagle Eyes was particularly keen to make sure we hurried past this wasp’s nest.27-Aug-2009 14:31, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 105.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 1600
Most of the red crabs we saw were dried out husks; survival of the fittest obviously meant the guy with the hole lives to pinch another day!27-Aug-2009 14:35, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 105.0mm, 0.04 sec, ISO 1600
Eagle Eye pointing out how high the river gets in the wet season (Jan-Mar).27-Aug-2009 14:39, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 28.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 1600
Keen to handle the reptile for as short a time as possible, he demonstrated the fangs of the Anaconda Cobra before laying it to the ground to continue its merry way.27-Aug-2009 15:11, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 105.0mm, 0.0050 sec, ISO 1600
Once it was put back down, it played dead, which was very covenient for the odd photo.27-Aug-2009 15:14, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 45.0mm, 0.0080 sec, ISO 1600
Laughter and mirth over, he quietly trundled away on a hundred ribs never to be seen again.27-Aug-2009 15:27, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 85.0mm, 0.0080 sec, ISO 1600
Eagle Eye and I set off on a short and unsuccessful expedition to find some more Anaconda.27-Aug-2009 15:49, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 13.0, 53.0mm, 0.0015625 sec, ISO 1600
Alicia and Rita, our Pampas pals on this trek, making sure they don’t catch too much sun.27-Aug-2009 16:09, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 11.0, 68.0mm, 0.0020 sec, ISO 1600
Wading through waist deep grass, Lynette strikes a Lara Croft pose…27-Aug-2009 16:27, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 11.0, 97.0mm, 0.0015625 sec, ISO 1600
”Hey turtles, either of you have a tin opener on you? Feeling peckish…“27-Aug-2009 16:57, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 105.0mm, 0.003125 sec, ISO 1600
“Don’t listen to him… he’s just spoiling for a fight… our log is LOADS better…”27-Aug-2009 20:34, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 105.0mm, 0.0020 sec, ISO 1600
Whistling down Rio Yacuma enjoying the awesome kind of trek that is sitting down all day and just enjoying the view.27-Aug-2009 20:30, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 13.0, 28.0mm, 0.0025 sec, ISO 1600
Lynette noted how the bird on the right looks exceptionally like a man in a costume just wandered into view…27-Aug-2009 20:41, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 105.0mm, 0.0025 sec, ISO 1600
“Hey guys, I found that tin opener, how about popping over for dinner later?”27-Aug-2009 20:45, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 105.0mm, 0.0020 sec, ISO 1600
The exceptionally elusive Pink Dolphin – or a jelly fish. But that would be even more amazing…26-Aug-2009 19:59, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 105.0mm, 0.0020 sec, ISO 400
In an excited frenzy, I dived in to convince the Dolphins to be a bit more entertaining…27-Aug-2009 20:57, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 105.0mm, 0.0015625 sec, ISO 1600
Easily startled, the sudden flurry of pink flamengoes added yet another splash of colour to the Pampas.27-Aug-2009 21:23, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 105.0mm, 0.0050 sec, ISO 1600
Our trusty and rather talented cook carrying a large saucepan. The woman is washing up cheerfully.27-Aug-2009 22:28, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 28.0mm, 0.01666666 sec, ISO 1600
The best photo I managed to get of our night Caiman spotting, the mosquitoes were far more successful at taking chunks out of us…28-Aug-2009 00:50, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 92.0mm, 0.01666666 sec, ISO 400
Our ever cheery chef produced a lovely bottle of Bolivian wine on our last night. We liked him.28-Aug-2009 01:07, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.01666666 sec, ISO 400
Chunks of beef at the ready, a hard morning of Piranha fishing was about to start.28-Aug-2009 13:54, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 45.0mm, 0.00625 sec, ISO 800
The hardly trained team from United Kingdom had their technically advanced rods at the ready.28-Aug-2009 13:55, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 30.0mm, 0.0040 sec, ISO 800
Lynette was a star, catching not only the first fish but also a record eleven for the day!28-Aug-2009 13:59, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.0080 sec, ISO 800
Eagle Eye was such an aggressive fisher that he speared this little bugger when he was only just thinking about taking a nibble…28-Aug-2009 14:51, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 105.0mm, 0.0025 sec, ISO 800
Eagle Eye’s favourite catch of the day. He doesn’t really chow down raw…28-Aug-2009 14:54, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 105.0mm, 0.003125 sec, ISO 800
My largest catch of the day, totalling seven of which several made it to the dinner plate!28-Aug-2009 15:08, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 13.0, 28.0mm, 0.0025 sec, ISO 800
From left to right, Lynette, Steve, five fried Piranha on a plate, Alicia and Rita.28-Aug-2009 16:00, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.04 sec, ISO 800
“Guys, guys, we’re not baby turtles any more – its time to move to a bigger log!”28-Aug-2009 18:14, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 11.0, 105.0mm, 0.00125 sec, ISO 800
The winning team of the Symmetrical Standoff competition was the envy of Rio Yacuma.28-Aug-2009 18:18, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 105.0mm, 0.0015625 sec, ISO 800
Enjoying the sun on our last speed whine down the river back to the Jeep.28-Aug-2009 18:25, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 14.0, 28.0mm, 0.0020 sec, ISO 800
Waiting patiently for our TAM flight back to La Paz. No VIP area available.28-Aug-2009 22:40, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 28.0mm, 0.02 sec, ISO 800
Here our plane proudly stands gracing the jungle runway, ready to take us back to the Bolivian capital.28-Aug-2009 22:40, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.00625 sec, ISO 800
Gilbert, clearly you read the blog, I read the blog, I personally know of 8 others that read the blog, how else are all the hundreds of Steve & Lynette’s friends and family supposed to know what adventures they are having? Steve – keep on typing, Gilbert can’t count!
Crossing the very helpful Bolivian border, most locals believe Peru does not have toilets.
The back of our far from luxury 20hr bus from La Paz to Rurrenabaque, proudly depicting Thor the Thundergod. On the right is another bus, with an ass kicking fellow from Dragonball Z.
Having started our Pampas tour within 3hrs of arriving, after another 4hrs by bouncing jeep we arrived at Rio Yacuma.
Of all the animals we saw, the turtles were by far the most hilariously lens friendly.
The view of the sunset from the bar, you keep expecting the Big Four to sprint across the view.
The Anaconda Cobra found our presence particularly hilarious.
”Hey turtles, either of you have a tin opener on you? Feeling peckish…“
Instead, they far more enjoyed a teasing game of hide and seek.
Our ever cheery chef produced a lovely bottle of Bolivian wine on our last night. We liked him.
We finished off the evening by tucking into a bottle of Bolivian wine our hosts had kindly presented to us (with absolutely no thought as to cementing a tip) together with a Spanglish overview of the wildlife we’d seen from Eagle Eyes our guide. The parts we interpreted contained genuine surprises, apparently there were jaguar in the area also and during wet season they would skulk in the banks and even attack dolphins; he had seen several decimated carcases over the many years he’d spent in the area. Poor buggers. Tired after a full day, we headed to bed.
Chunks of beef at the ready, a hard morning of Piranha fishing was about to start.
Showing the rather effective teeth of this little beastie…
Lynette noted how the bird on the right looks exceptionally like a man in a costume just wandered into view…
Waiting patiently for our TAM flight back to La Paz. No VIP area available.
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spend some time travelling rather than writing this shit blog that NOBODY reads! miss youu x
Gilbert, clearly you read the blog, I read the blog, I personally know of 8 others that read the blog, how else are all the hundreds of Steve & Lynette’s friends and family supposed to know what adventures they are having? Steve – keep on typing, Gilbert can’t count!
Mum, thanks for leaping to our defense, gilbert just has a crap sense of humour.
)
Gilbert, we gave up on sleep instead. Now get back to work.
p