View at Picasa On the basis that every time we ventured a bit further away we made the wrong fork decision, Señora Wayne was a worthwhile investment.11-Jul-2009 18:55, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 11.0, 28.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400

Introduction: Ecuador is one of only two countries in South America that doesn’t border Brazil, and thankfully is fairly easy to traverse due to its small size (80th in the world) – a welcome break after the marathon bus journeys of Columbia! Ecuador is famous for its geographical diversity with a huge variety of flora and fauna. We were on catch up after enjoying ourselves far too much in the previous countries and becoming a little behind schedule. Doesn’t sound like us. In total we spent sixteen days here, and it was yet another whirlwind tour with some amazing moments.

Local name:	Republic of Ecuador	Flag:
Population:	14,573,101	Life expectancy:	75.3
Size:	106,888 sq mi	Currency:	US Dollar
Capital:	Quito	Capital population:	1,780,700
Language:	Spanish
Religion:	Roman Catholic 95%

When we went: 6th July to 22nd July 2009

Where we went: Crossed overland by bus from Ipiales to Quito for a few days, took a bus to Latacunga for the start of the Quilotoa loop, a bus to Zumbahua, hiked to Chughilan, bus back to Latacunga, bus to Baños, bus to Puyo and back, bus to Riobamba only to take a bus straight to Cañar, then a bus to Ingapirca and back, and then on to Cuenca. Finally took a bus direct to Chiclayo, Peru, crossing the border and continuing our journey.

Where we stayed:

• Kinara in Quito – Our first hostel in Ecuador, described as exceptionally clean and friendly. More like a converted family home, exceptionally quiet and sterile, Jonathan who runs the place is very friendly though. Woeful wireless only accessibly from the downstairs sofa. Double with private bath and breakfast was $12pp.
• Hostel Comodor in Zumbahua – Literally overlooking the main square and excellent market, we were greeted by a friendly ten year old girl who seemed to be running the place. Basic but relatively clean with character, cold as expected, does what it says on the tin. Double with shared bath was $5pp.
• Cloud Forest Hostal in Chugchilan – A polished and large hostal, very popular on the Quilotoa loop. Hot showers, well stocked bar and friendly staff. No Wi-Fi, food is filling but basic. Recommended after a long hike. Double with private bath, including dinner and breakfast (compulsory) is $10pp.
• Hostal Transilvania in Baños – Exceptionally cheap and very friendly hostal, that unfortunately has major problems with network and Wi-Fi connectivity so we had to leave. Probably fixed now. Small rooms, but friendly with beer available. Recommended if they fix the internet issues. Double with private bath and breakfast $7pp.
• Chimenea Hostal in Baños – Excellent hostel with pool and sauna available (extra). Larger than Transilvania you are less likely to meet people, but has a great rooftop view of Baños. Large clean rooms. Recommended, Wi-Fi reached the room. Double with private bathroom, no breakfast included $7.50pp. Will not bargain.
• Hostal Ingapirca in Cuenca – A terrible hostel with no light in the shared bathroom, no communal meeting place to speak of and no breakfast. Creaky floorboards, dirty and expensive for what is offered. Not recommended! There are others! Double with shared bathroom and no breakfast $6pp.
• Traveller’s of the World in Cuenca – A difficult to find hostel that we loved. Large character room, Wi-Fi available from communal area, kitchen available. Good for privacy but also long-termers staying, its cheap and excellent location. Mexican next door is great. Recommended. Double with shared bathroom and no breakfast $6pp. (Calle Larga 5-79 y Hermano Miguel, 072 829 125, esperanzab65@gmail.com)

Things we saw: The beautiful blue lake in Quilotoa crater. A diminishing herd of sheep in Zumbahua market. The largest Incan ruins in Ecuador in Ingapirca.

Things we did: Didn’t visit the centre of the world. Attacked by exceptionally friendly monkeys in Puno. Froze our extremities off climbing Pichincha volcano. Went buggying down waterfall road. Got lost. Took a Chiva to the top of the mountain with Mick, Mack & Paddy.

The Food: Started migrating to real restaurants after an almuerzos overdose in Colombia. Not a huge amount in the way of tasty indigenous food still; although some interesting barbequed guinea pig – bit like rabbit, not much meat.

The Drink: More beer… Beer is about US$1.50 (~£1) in shops, and US$2-3 (~£2) in bars/hostels. Found rum for $5 a bottle.

Top five things to remember: The laughter of monkeys while they licked the sweat from us in Puno. Conquering Pichincha volcano. Hiking from Quilotoa crater to Chugchilan with help from Señora Wayne. The amazing gigantic insects at Mitad del Mundo. Taking a Turkish bath in Baños.

The not so good things: The smog in Quito. Having to cut the Quilotoa loop slightly short. No space available for flights to Galapagos islands.

Blog posts:

• Gallery: Crossing the Colombian border in Ipiales and Las Lajas Cathedral
  
• Gallery: Arrival in Quito and the Middle of the World (Mitad del Mundo)
  
• Gallery: Climbing Pichincha Volcano in Quito
  
• Gallery: Hiking the Quilotoa Loop in Ecuador
  
• Gallery: Buggying in Baños and the Walk of Monkeys!
  
• Gallery: Incans in Ingapirca & Chocolate in Cuenca

At 5 tonnes, it is one heavy planet. View at Picasa At 5 tonnes, it is one heavy planet.09-Jul-2009 22:03, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL, 11.0, 40.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400	Success all round! We’re both on top! View at Picasa Success all round! We're both on top!08-Jul-2009 20:20, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 14.0, 28.0mm, 0.0025 sec, ISO 400	Although I did say hello briefly, not the first time I wished I had a spare carrot. View at Picasa Although I did say hello briefly, not the first time I wished I had a spare carrot.08-Jul-2009 16:37, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 97.0mm, 0.0025 sec, ISO 1600
Not a bad view to savour while being served an Ecuador fry up… View at Picasa Not a bad view to savour while being served an Ecuador fry up…11-Jul-2009 15:21, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 11.0, 28.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400	Here we are! Quilotoa crater! View at Picasa Here we are! Quilotoa crater!11-Jul-2009 17:16, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 28.0mm, ISO 400	Now THAT’s a gorge. Although mysteriously lacking a convenient bridge. View at Picasa Now THAT's a gorge. Although mysteriously lacking a convenient bridge.11-Jul-2009 20:47, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 7.1, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400
Like something out of The Lost World, the views are amazing. View at Picasa Like something out of The Lost World, the views are amazing.13-Jul-2009 21:21, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 35.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400	One great similarity between Colombians and Ecuadorians is their inability to understand photo directions. Still, one similarity between Lynette and I is our inability to speak anything but the most basic Spanish. View at Picasa One great similarity between Colombians and Ecuadorians is their inability to understand photo directions. Still, one similarity between Lynette and I is our inability to speak anything but the most basic Spanish.13-Jul-2009 21:27, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 35.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400	We’re all drinking an alcoholic tea that is included with the trip. Immediately we understood why they were giving it away; it was absolutely disgusting!! View at Picasa We're all drinking an alcoholic tea that is included with the trip. Immediately we understood why they were giving it away; it was absolutely disgusting!!14-Jul-2009 03:25, Panasonic DMC-FX3, 2.8, 5.8mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 250
Safely secured in our boxes, I thought only briefly of how the storyline of Hostel 3 might run. View at Picasa Safely secured in our boxes, I thought only briefly of how the storyline of Hostel 3 might run.15-Jul-2009 14:51, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.04 sec, ISO 400	Its the face hugger of Monkeys! View at Picasa Its the face hugger of Monkeys!15-Jul-2009 20:46, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 28.0mm, 0.02 sec, ISO 400	Awwww! If you could taste this gallery, it would be like candy floss. View at Picasa Awwww! If you could taste this gallery, it would be like candy floss.15-Jul-2009 21:19, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 45.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 400
That’s all three angles covered then. View at Picasa That's all three angles covered then.17-Jul-2009 18:42, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400	Lynette taking a rest while quietly admiring the snig fitting brick work that the Incans are famous for. View at Picasa Lynette taking a rest while quietly admiring the snig fitting brick work that the Incans are famous for.17-Jul-2009 17:37, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 8.0, 28.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 400	We did try for a nice couple plus monkey pose, but face hugger was having none of it. View at Picasa We did try for a nice couple plus monkey pose, but face hugger was having none of it.15-Jul-2009 20:49, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 28.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 400

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