 The awesome Virupaksha temple rearing up from the centre of Hampi town.11-Nov-2009 06:04, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 38.0mm, ISO 800 |
Having escaped the threat of a torrential ten days in Goa, we arrived late afternoon in Hampi, a famed area chockablock with ruins and history, as well as being a chilled out spot that allegedly some find very difficult to leave. I expected swathes of dry desert liberally sprinkled with boulders; we actually found grass, palm trees, great bushes of flowers, and of course rocks and sand although this wasn’t immediately obvious as we arrived to blackened clouds, torrential downpour and no power to the whole town. From the relative safety of a candle lit roof top restaurant, only the occasional fit of lightning reminded us that if the world was coming to an end, it still existed for now. Did the deluge of water stop? Would our successful run of no Delhi belly continue? Would I eat something that didn’t involve a curry?
 Most of the huge and varied cows you see have their horns painted different colours, we assume to help identify local ownership.
Most of the huge and varied cows you see have their horns painted different colours, we assume to help identify local ownership.10-Nov-2009 10:26, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 4.5, 22.5mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 80 |
When travelling through India, 2nd class sleeper is the only way to go. Relatively comfortable, incredibly cheap, and as you sit or sleep various vendors will trundle down the hall selling everything you need including cups of Chai for 5Rs and delicious local snacks for 10-20Rs. To travel this way successfully however, you need to book at least a few days in advance, as the trains are popular and if there is no space you are plonked on a waiting list with middling to no success to follow. Have no fear; there is an online booking system that bar one small issue is incredibly easy to use. The issue I am referring to is that no matter what card we use, irrelevant of the swear words that are thrown in the screen’s direction, it simply refuses to accept any credit card we have. American Express, Master Card, Visa, Visa Debit, it just conks out with an error. We booked successfully with Amex back in the UK, but now we’re here, nothing works, which is very frustrating!
 How the Indians pile their hay in an attempt to confuse you into thinking it is a living space.
How the Indians pile their hay in an attempt to confuse you into thinking it is a living space.10-Nov-2009 08:16, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 4.6, 37.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 80 |
All this meant that on arrival for our #8048 train from Madgaon to Hospet Junction (Goa to Hampi), we knew there should be space as we’d checked, but we had no ticket. We thankfully purchased one on arrival, and were given second class (not sleeper). Fine, we thought, we’re travelling for the seven hour journey during the day, and unlikely to sleep. Merrily we sauntered to the second class coach, as we got closer we wondered why there was a big crowd of shouting people up ahead. There were arguments, things being thrown, people being trampled underfoot… was it a riot? Then, as we walked nervously nearer our carriage, we realised this was no riot. This was standard practise when trying to cram as many sardines as possible into a second class tin. Gritting our teeth and reasoning that it was only for a few hours, heads down we dived in and tried to use the combined weight of us and our backpacks to force our way through the frantic crowd. We managed about two feet beyond the train door before becoming hopelessly stuck and unable to progress any further into the solid mass of sweating bodies, while Lynette who was behind me started to get shoved from people behind so that they could also somehow gain passage. We were about to enter the ride from hell, and had every confidence that we weren’t going to survive…
Thankfully, at the last second, a train conductor spotted our plight and said the magic words “That carraige is not for you! Come with me!”. We extricated ourselves from the angry mob, made easier by the lube of sweat, and quickly jumped up a couple of coaches into the intended second class SLEEPER. Lesson learned – don’t try this at home. Seven hours, several Chai’s, one waterfall and several Mexican whoops through dark tunnels later, we arrived in Hospet Junction.
 Scale model of the Hampi area, including Tungabhadra river, Virupaksha temple and the main ruins to the south east.
Scale model of the Hampi area, including Tungabhadra river, Virupaksha temple and the main ruins to the south east.12-Nov-2009 06:43, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 4.0, 4.1mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 80 |
One 90Rs rickshaw later and we pulled up into Hampi itself, after checking out a few hostels we followed a gentleman called Ganesh to Netra Guest House, which at 225Rs for a double with private bath seemed a bargain. At least we thought it was, as the power was out on arrival we were shown around by weak torchlight. The two main issues we soon found were that despite the mosquito net covered windows and even a coil Lynette still got bitten alive, also that a small gap near the ceiling connected each room so that every night it sounded as though all the mouths and ears in the entire hostel were having a small party. So we did not sleep much, but then it was only two nights. Most of the accommodation is the same type in Hampi, none will be perfect, and ours certainly wasn’t, but it was cheap. Anyway, after an hour or so in the rooftop restaurant with the battering rain and flashes of lightning for company and only a candle for comfort, we spotted in the not too far distance a defiant rooftop terrace that still had its lights on. Excitedly we pulled on our raincoats and headed over for dinner, sadly without any meat or beer (Hampi is a religious town and the vast majority will not serve either) but thankfully with sight, before heading back for a terrible night’s sleep.
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The awesome Virupaksha temple rearing up from the centre of Hampi town.
The awesome Virupaksha temple rearing up from the centre of Hampi town.11-Nov-2009 06:04, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 38.0mm, ISO 800 |
In the morning the skies were cloudy but dry, so we set off on our day’s hike to the centrepiece Virupaksha temple and the myriad others that stretch along the Tungabhadra river that borders Hampi. The Virupaksha temple is an amazing sight, fully intact and still used in worship. Dedicated to Shiva “The Destroyer” (known locally as Virupaksha), its history dates back to the 7th century as a small shrine, well before the rest of the ruins of Hampi, gradually growing to the large complex it is today. We took a good wander around the beautiful ruins, noted the locals using the wide open spaces to dry their washing, and I was even blessed by the resident elephant, Lakshmi.
 A first; they actually stopped us to take a photo of them!
A first; they actually stopped us to take a photo of them!11-Nov-2009 05:30, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 53.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 400 |
We then carried on our walk to take in the many other temples for the next six hours, all of which are incredibly ornate and part of the later Vijayanagara empire estabilished in 1336 (lasted until 1646) by Harihara I and his brother Bukka Raya I. Modern day Hampi was in its day called Vijayanagara and was the capital of said, very impressive, empire. Their major successes in trade and efficient administration allowed successful expansion, alongside an army of two million soldiers including a navy, archers, musketeers and elephants with knives on their tusks. Again, I won’t go into the temples we visited in detail, the photos below and links above will help and yes again we were fascinated by monkeys. That evening we had a great meal at Trujel and our first illicit beer which had to be hidden under the table and wrapped in newspaper to help avoid a local riot. Whether being spotted would have involved the removal of several digits we just don’t know.
 Keep your eyes on these chaps, three seconds is all they need to have whipped away your bag and decided who looks best in your jacket.
Keep your eyes on these chaps, three seconds is all they need to have whipped away your bag and decided who looks best in your jacket.12-Nov-2009 02:07, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 48.0mm, 0.013 sec, ISO 100 |
After another horrendous night’s sleep listening to the sound of the guesthouse porter shooing away cows all night, we rose early to climb Matanga hill and watch the sunrise. Perfect weather and a feeling of freedom at watching the town start its day made us feel fantastic at the summit of our short hike, if a little out of breath. As is traditional on a sunrise, you start sprinting as the day seems light and you are already too late, only to find the sun’s alarm hasn’t even gone off yet and it certainly won’t be showing its head for at least another half hour. The view was awesome, and unexpectedly a tribe of Rhesus monkeys announced their arrival by trying to steal my camera bag when I wasn’t looking. As the sun eventually did light up the surrounding temples and ruins in a gloriously romantic and peaceful fashion, the monkeys decided to entertain themselves by grooming and humping each other.
 Lynette having a chat with the locals.
Lynette having a chat with the locals.12-Nov-2009 02:52, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 55.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 400 |
On the way back down we met some other early risers, who insistently offered us bread and jam not taking no for an answer, this was because it was bloody horrible and was eventually donated to the monkeys. They shortly scattered after the hulk of an Alpha male landed squarely in the middle, grabbed the remaining morsels and spread himself over a rock where three females leapt to attention and began grooming him while he looked curiously at the strange tasting food he was eating. The sun well and truly up, Lynette and I bounced back down the rocks, not literally, noting where about two hours previously a religious man mid-squat in the morning twilight had pointed us the wrong way up the hill. Maybe we should have given him some backsheesh. Maybe he was just telling us to bugger off he was in the middle of something.
 We’ve seen a few of these dotted around. Apparently the Archaeological Society of India works so quickly they need to have the signs on wheels.
We've seen a few of these dotted around. Apparently the Archaeological Society of India works so quickly they need to have the signs on wheels.11-Nov-2009 08:18, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 50.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 200 |
After some breakfast, again noting the strange definition of a hash brown (In India it is a kind of potato curry, I quite like it and always get Lynette’s portion so doubly so), we took a 70Rs rickshaw to the local museum, fairly uninteresting except for a large scale model of the whole area to get your bearings, before walking on into the palace ruins of the Vijayanagara empire itself. Again, many more photos below, but the quality and scale of the buildings is truly immense. The intricacy and imagination of the carvings, the evident history and importance of their religion, all with bounding monkeys and fluttering dragonflies creates a bit of a magical feel around Hampi we began to appreciate properly only just as we were about to leave. Which, after a 50Rs rickshaw back to Hampi’s outskirts, is pretty much what we did.
 Amusing myself with a cow in front of the 15th century Elephant stables, eleven huge rooms for the enormous Pachyderms.
Amusing myself with a cow in front of the 15th century Elephant stables, eleven huge rooms for the enormous Pachyderms.12-Nov-2009 09:13, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 5.6, 4.4mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 80 |
We’d booked Amal to take us back to the train station for a 10hr sleeper to Bangalore for 100Rs, where we were due to arrive an hour before it set off to make damn sure we didn’t miss it. Unfortunately it was then about an hour late, so we had some time to kill. We played cards, we caved to one of the child beggars with a cut up foot and bought him some food. We watched the power disappear and reappear again, we were occasionally the centre of attention when a staring person plucked up the courage to ask where we were from and what we were doing here. Eventually we boarded our 2nd class A/C (!) sleeper (750Rs each, as no space in non A/C) and after a brief confusion over our seats (somebody else stole ours!) a kindly gentleman asked our plans and offered us residency for the next day in a recreational club where he was a member. We could shower, swim, relax, sleep, and then his son would drop us off at the bus station to continue on our way. Sounding too good to be true, he called and confirmed it, before we all dropped off to sleep.
When we woke, we met outside the train, and he immediately apologised. Apparently there were no vacancies at the club that day, and he gave us the name of a local hotel instead. Nonplussed, we’d expected it, we said our goodbyes and continued on our way. Our huge stroke of luck must be destined to happen another day!
 There are many of these humungous millipedes, a tasty lunch for the monkeys.
There are many of these humungous millipedes, a tasty lunch for the monkeys.11-Nov-2009 06:27, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 4.5, 32.1mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 80 |
So, it was 04:30, it was still dark, we had one day to spend in Bangalore which as far as we knew was basically a big smelly city, before getting a bus to Madurai in the evening. Suffice to say, our suspicions about Bangalore proved correct, we made a trip the local park where somebody stole our water before vanishing off while rickshaws did their best to cost a fortune. We managed to find a hostel to shower and have forty winks, it felt like a prison and the chipping off rocks sound that woke us three hours later did not spoil the illusion. We took a trip to MG Road, which was so special it had a close up map in the Rough Guide. Having been there, we’re not sure why it deserves scrutiny, except perhaps as a commercial centre. Although The Indian Coffee house does a lovely cup for only 10Rs – about a quarter the cost of anything else in the area!
 Such a romantic setting, some people just can’t help themselves.
Such a romantic setting, some people just can't help themselves.12-Nov-2009 02:08, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 105.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 100 |
The day progressed relatively smoothly, we boarded our bus to Madurai (650Rs with Sangita Travels) and after about four hours it actually left the city limits. In short, we haven’t got long on our first leg in South India and Hampi and Goa have been great. The other areas – Jalgaon, Aurangabad, Bangalore and the next few stops of Madurai and Tiruchirapalli are all a means to an end (with some great temples and ruins to see) but an experience in themselves if you can rise above the constant beeping traffic, the persistent bothering and crazy methods of transport to actually watch the colourful variety of life walk by, the beautiful saris, the strange man nappies, the myriad of shops and the inquisitive friendliness. Next stop, Madurai!
Castlerock, also a place near Portrush.10-Nov-2009 06:15, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.7, 6.9mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 80 |
How the Indians pile their hay in an attempt to confuse you into thinking it is a living space.10-Nov-2009 08:16, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 4.6, 37.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 80 |
Most of the huge and varied cows you see have their horns painted different colours, we assume to help identify local ownership.10-Nov-2009 10:26, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 4.5, 22.5mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 80 |
The awesome Virupaksha temple rearing up from the centre of Hampi town.11-Nov-2009 06:04, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 38.0mm, ISO 800 |
A close-up of the intricate sculpture that covers the entire Virupaksha temple structure.11-Nov-2009 05:17, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 105.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 200 |
Inside the first walls of the temple, many locals simply hang around, drying clothes, chatting, and hawking tourists.11-Nov-2009 05:21, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 40.0mm, ISO 400 |
The obligatory Rhesus monkeys looking smug having probably just raided a banana seller.11-Nov-2009 05:26, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 105.0mm, ISO 400 |
A first; they actually stopped us to take a photo of them!11-Nov-2009 05:30, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 53.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 400 |
More usual, a photo of this holy temple priest cost 5Rs, in his bag is holy ash.11-Nov-2009 05:34, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 105.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 400 |
A view from inside the main temple looking out at the inner wall and main entrance.11-Nov-2009 05:41, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 28.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 400 |
Again, continued restoration brings out the fine work that has developed this 7th century temple into the huge structure it is today.11-Nov-2009 05:43, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 38.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 400 |
Lynette standing next to the main temple in the inner court.11-Nov-2009 05:46, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 48.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 800 |
Two monkeys play fighting with each other.11-Nov-2009 05:48, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 105.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 800 |
Lakshmi is the temple elephant, and the first we've seen so far in India!11-Nov-2009 05:49, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 48.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 800 |
One rupee in her trunk which she sweeps away and she will bless you, quite popular among the locals!11-Nov-2009 05:52, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 28.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 800 |
Two more mature monkeys busying themselves with eating while the others play.11-Nov-2009 05:54, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 105.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 800 |
More cows, this time with blue paint on their horns.11-Nov-2009 06:12, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.0, 45.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 200 |
Hampi Bazaar continues East until you meet the boulder heavy home of the various temples and ruins that surround Hampi.11-Nov-2009 06:13, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 14.0, 40.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 200 |
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