Lynette and I in front of Chakri Maha Prasat Hall.26-Nov-2009 09:23, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 20.0, 28.0mm, 0.02 sec, ISO 200
After the rib tickling gut punch from India and a growing rose tinted fondness for South America, we were looking immensely forward to Thailand. It heralded the start of our South East Asia journey, and we arrived with high hopes propped up by more recommendations that any other to date. Plus, we had timed our arrival to overlap with Dave and Emma’s departure, so with a bit of knowledge transfer, and beer, our arrival in Bangkok had the potential to be quite wonderful. Was the capital of Thailand just another big stinky city? Would the locals be pleased to see us? Just what do cockroaches taste like?
Even Ronald knows how to say hello Thai style!18-Nov-2009 08:51, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.6, 6.5mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 125
We took a 570B taxi from the airport to Roof View Place, just north of Khao San Road, for 570B and on the way in things were already looking encouraging. Nobody had tried to pilfer our bags from the baggage reclaim area in exchange for cash and even the buildings looked like they’d had a wash recently. At about 9pm we crossed the threshold, and immediately the receptionist did wonderfully helpful things like take our passports and write down all the details for us. She took our bags and placed them in a luggage elevator so that we didn’t have to lug them to the fourth floor. She gave us a map and told us about breakfast. All while being exceptionally polite and giving us a big smile. She then gave us a note saying; “Guys, we’re in room 505 and we’ve got beers in the fridge. See you soon!”. We were pretty sure we were going to enjoy Thailand!
Lynette loved the cheeky mannequins dotted around our hostel.
Lynette loved the cheeky mannequins dotted around our hostel.25-Nov-2009 03:04, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 4.3, 15.8mm, 0.02 sec, ISO 250
Roof View Place isn’t the cheapest at 750B for a double room, but it is wonderfully clean, good Wi-Fi everywhere, air conditioning, balcony, a good and varied all you can eat breakfast, free coffee and water and friendly helpful staff. They even have a very good Visa service and pretty competitive tours. As Dave & Emma put it, a great place to rely on when you’re bouncing to and fro from Bangkok which seems to happen a lot in South East Asia. Our plan was to spend the first two days doing not much constructive, which wasn’t hard, before heading to Surin Elephant Roundup – which we’ll write about later – and then coming back to have a proper search around. The notable parts are our first impressions when walking around. Usually we don’t like the smog and bustle of big cities, but in Bangkok it seems to happen with a very clean smile. Except for Tuk Tuk drivers, nobody pushes you to buy anything and you can even browse the market with relative tranquillity. It was a revelation when in Indian cities (and South America but slightly less so) you couldn’t walk ten paces without being pushed or pulled into a hawker’s zone of attack.
For 50B a mixed bag of deep fried maggots, cockroaches, grasshoppers, ants and other unidentifiables. Tastes like chicken (shredded, dipped in soy sauce and burnt to a cinder in oil).
For 50B a mixed bag of deep fried maggots, cockroaches, grasshoppers, ants and other unidentifiables. Tastes like chicken (shredded, dipped in soy sauce and burnt to a cinder in oil).18-Nov-2009 14:22, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.6, 6.5mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 100
The beeping was gone; these people know how to drive (on the left). They had a Boots, and even a Tescos. A street adorned with food stalls was like walking through a box of chocolates, you could pick and nibble all day. It didn’t feel like we were trying to punch our way out of a paper bag, it was more like landing in a big warm duvet. Underneath the mostly Western veneer, Golden ridged Buddhist temples, or Wats, are randomly scattered throughout the city while monks travel in the reserved rear of buses wearing their bright orange robes. The word Ka (for women) or Kap (for men) is liberally sprinkled through conversation as a sign of respect usually finished with a quick bow and prayer. It is all very refreshing!
While in Bangkok we went to a number of different places and we’ll give a quick rundown on each;
One of the many magnificent flots (?) used in the relatively recent Queen’s funeral.
One of the many magnificent flots (?) used in the relatively recent Queen's funeral.25-Nov-2009 05:31, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.3, 4.1mm, 0.025 sec, ISO 80
The National Museum – Free English tours on Wednesday and Thursday at 09:30 by volunteers are absolutely fantastic and well worth attending. A genuine passion for the subject by our Dutch guide took us through ancient Buddhist and Hindu sculptures, described the religious history of South East Asia and set the scene for ever other artefact we have seen both since and before. Although the spoilsports don’t let you take photos.
Not quite straight looking either.26-Nov-2009 07:59, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 4.0, 6.9mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 80
The Grand Palace – A huge and beautiful assortment of buildings sporting more gold than Fort Knox and home to the famous Emerald Buddha (actually made of Jade). Particularly fussy over your clothing, Lynette’s Sari was deemed unworthy and she was forced to hire and wear a rather large and very fetching blue shirt.
The smell of cheesy feet round here certainly has nothing to do with Buddha’s enormous plates of meat.
The smell of cheesy feet round here certainly has nothing to do with Buddha's enormous plates of meat.26-Nov-2009 10:40, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 28.0mm, 0.167 sec, ISO 200
Wat Pho – Each Wat comprises a Buddhist temple, living quarters for the monks, often a school and Pagodas that can spear the sky. All are gloriously decorated and pop impressively out of nowhere while walking around. Wat Pho is the oldest temple in Bangkok, and most famous for its humungous reclining Buddha. An impressive Wat with expansive and wonderful surroundings to match.
In the National Elephant Museum, where the most interesting exhibit was six large pickling jars morbidly containing parts of an elephants skin.
In the National Elephant Museum, where the most interesting exhibit was six large pickling jars morbidly containing parts of an elephants skin.27-Nov-2009 09:56, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.8, 7.9mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 400
Vimanmek Palace – The 250B ticket to the Grand Palace also buys you entry to think nailless Teak mansion that was occasional home to the royal family and also Thailand’s first light bulb. Large numbers of unique and amazing artefacts including furniture and ceramics decorate the entire house that you walk through on the necessary guided tour. For most this is an interesting afternoon, for some it must be fascinating.
Patravadi Theatre, such good fun we forgot to take a decent video!
Patravadi Theatre, such good fun we forgot to take a decent video!27-Nov-2009 14:30, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 4.2, 13.7mm, 0.125 sec, ISO 400
Patravadi Theatre – Absolutely amazing evening in a rather splendid restaurant with the twist that you eat around a stage where different and engaging performances continue throughout the evening that actually often involve the audience. Whether body perfect Thai classical dance, surprise ceiling gymnastics dangling from silk or break dancing workmen all were brilliant and a great night. The food is expensive but the performance free. A brilliant Friday night.
And when HP can’t help… it is the geek orgasm that is Panthip Plaza to the rescue!
And when HP can't help… it is the geek orgasm that is Panthip Plaza to the rescue!25-Nov-2009 09:54, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.3, 4.1mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 250
Panthip Plaza – India’s parting words to us involved a broken laptop which after a failed attempt to repair involved buying a replacement. Awesome fun. Panthip Plaza is geek paradise, about ten football fields worth of tech gear ranging from laptops and computers to USB powered coffee mugs and pirate software manuals.
Lynette pondering how to remove the spherical stone from the Lion’s mouth and therefore gaining immortality.
Lynette pondering how to remove the spherical stone from the Lion's mouth and therefore gaining immortality.26-Nov-2009 09:03, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 50.0mm, ISO 800
We’d already booked a night train to Surin online and cheerfully headed off in that direction for the Elephant Roundup, which we’ll write about in the next post. The second time we scarpered was to Kanchanaburi, for the Bridge over River Kwai festival which we’ll also write about later. We’re coming back again after Pai before taking a bus to Cambodia. Months later, we’ll probably return for a last bit of sunshine in South Thailand before flying home. It’s a great place, so we don’t mind one bit!
For 50B a mixed bag of deep fried maggots, cockroaches, grasshoppers, ants and other unidentifiables. Tastes like chicken (shredded, dipped in soy sauce and burnt to a cinder in oil).18-Nov-2009 14:22, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.6, 6.5mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 100
Virtually all temples require you to take your shoes off. To avoid confusion, avoid black leather shoes…25-Nov-2009 03:54, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 80.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 200
Buddha is depicted in many different ways depending on the country the sculpture originates from.25-Nov-2009 04:11, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 75.0mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 800
Buddha is always depicted with elongated ears, three wrinkles in his neck (showing wisdom) and a very asexual appearance.25-Nov-2009 04:11, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 92.0mm, 0.02 sec, ISO 800
Thai Buddha statues have nowhere near this level of decoration, believing Buddha to have dressed more like a peasant than the prince he was born as.25-Nov-2009 04:11, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 38.0mm, 0.05 sec, ISO 800
This is Brahma, god of creation, usually idientafiable due to his head having four faces.25-Nov-2009 04:58, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 48.0mm, 0.02 sec, ISO 800
One of the many magnificent flots (?) used in the relatively recent Queen's funeral.25-Nov-2009 05:31, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.3, 4.1mm, 0.025 sec, ISO 80
The time and patience it must take to craft each piece is beyond imagination.25-Nov-2009 06:32, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 45.0mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 800
The glittering colours enchanted us; Lynette now owns a very similar style pendant!25-Nov-2009 06:44, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 105.0mm, 0.02 sec, ISO 800
To make court textiles appealing to the nose, ladies used to dip them in coconut juice before boling them in perfumed water.25-Nov-2009 06:48, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.3, 4.1mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 200
Ladies of the Palace also used to coordinate their colours with each other according to each day of the week.25-Nov-2009 06:48, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.3, 4.1mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 320
After our HP Netbook broke we went to the top; HP Thailand Headquarters. They said 'We fix it long time'.19-Nov-2009 09:09, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 4.0, 4.1mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 80
Every surface studded with colour and carving, every space slotted with statues and spiritual purpose.26-Nov-2009 07:38, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 5.6, 4.1mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 80
Looking back from the Upper Terrace down to the one of the Grand Palace's entrances.26-Nov-2009 07:39, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 5.0, 4.1mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 80
Buddha allowed these birdmen to guard his temple's as a route to redemption.26-Nov-2009 07:56, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 30.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 200
Thai beliefs allow constant repainting of the historically covered walls, as long as the style remains unaltered.26-Nov-2009 08:16, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.3, 4.1mm, 0.077 sec, ISO 400
A big scary beastie eating people. Yes, we need to brush up our Thai history.26-Nov-2009 08:16, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 28.0mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 400
Looking at the entrance to Prasat Phra Dhepbidorn (The Royal Pantheon), where resides the famous Emerald Buddha.26-Nov-2009 08:12, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 5.6, 4.1mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 80
Outside it is a common custom to dip Lotus flowers in blessed water and then hit yourself on the head with them.26-Nov-2009 08:29, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 53.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 800
Lynette pondering how to remove the spherical stone from the Lion's mouth and therefore gaining immortality.26-Nov-2009 09:03, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 50.0mm, ISO 800
Looking up to Chakri Maha Prasat Hall, surrounded by beautifully preened trees, like something from Mario Land.26-Nov-2009 09:04, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, ISO 800
Elephants are another important piece of Thailand's tradition and history.26-Nov-2009 09:10, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.5, 105.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 200
Lynette in her ultra trendy blue shirt; they're not fond of bare skin round here!26-Nov-2009 09:12, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 48.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 200
Gold is only allowed to adorn religious or royal buildings, otherwise it brings bad luck.26-Nov-2009 09:28, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 5.0, 4.1mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 80
No skirts, shorts, tight trousers, bared shoulders, see through tops or naked bellies. Even Sari's don't pass muster… hence Lynette's new and thankfully temporary item of clothing.26-Nov-2009 09:52, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 20.0, 50.0mm, 0.04 sec, ISO 200
A thirty foot high poster of the King at a traffic junction, he is unbelievably important to Thai people.26-Nov-2009 09:55, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 20.0, 75.0mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 200
These are Pagodas, coming in various shapes and sizes, and of major interest to lightning.26-Nov-2009 10:16, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 28.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 200
One of many fifteen foot high sculptures guarding either side of each Wat entrance.26-Nov-2009 10:17, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 40.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 200
A huge golden Buddha, both touching the ground and being raised by a snake combining two stories from his history.26-Nov-2009 10:20, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 28.0mm, 0.067 sec, ISO 200
Apparently doing a gay dance below the head of the largest reclining golden Buddha in Thailand.26-Nov-2009 10:37, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.3, 4.1mm, 0.077 sec, ISO 400
The smell of cheesy feet round here certainly has nothing to do with Buddha's enormous plates of meat.26-Nov-2009 10:40, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 28.0mm, 0.167 sec, ISO 200
On site is a school for young Thais, here they are making a right racket learning traditional Thai instruments.26-Nov-2009 10:34, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 53.0mm, 0.067 sec, ISO 200
On one side of the Buddha's room, people drop coins into each and every pot in a long line, the constant clicking sounding almost musical as it echoes around the room.26-Nov-2009 10:42, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 28.0mm, 0.1 sec, ISO 200
Boarding our first river taxi, a fast and cheap way to head North or South in Bangkok.26-Nov-2009 10:59, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 4.0, 4.1mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 80
In the National Elephant Museum, where the most interesting exhibit was six large pickling jars morbidly containing parts of an elephants skin.27-Nov-2009 09:56, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.8, 7.9mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 400
Can’t believe you ate grasshoppers and maggots, wrong wrong wrong….!
Looks amazing guys, after Egypt I think it’s going to be my next holiday, can’t wait to read your recommendations well apart from the insects. Loving the MC D and Tesco
[...] a ‘good citizen’ or police stood at every corner watching our for dissidents. It was just like Bangkok, only busier, cheaper and with better bread. That is one crucial element that we’re so happy the [...]
Even Ronald knows how to say hello Thai style!
Lynette loved the cheeky mannequins dotted around our hostel.
For 50B a mixed bag of deep fried maggots, cockroaches, grasshoppers, ants and other unidentifiables. Tastes like chicken (shredded, dipped in soy sauce and burnt to a cinder in oil).
Lynette pondering how to remove the spherical stone from the Lion’s mouth and therefore gaining immortality.
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Can’t believe you ate grasshoppers and maggots, wrong wrong wrong….!
Looks amazing guys, after Egypt I think it’s going to be my next holiday, can’t wait to read your recommendations well apart from the insects. Loving the MC D and Tesco
Merry Xmas both, take care,
Jamie & Aga
[...] a ‘good citizen’ or police stood at every corner watching our for dissidents. It was just like Bangkok, only busier, cheaper and with better bread. That is one crucial element that we’re so happy the [...]
Tastes just like crunchy crisps deep fried in soy sauce. You’ve just got to pick the legs out of your teeth afterwards!