Lynette and I in front of Chakri Maha Prasat Hall.

After the rib tickling gut punch from India and a growing rose tinted fondness for South America, we were looking immensely forward to Thailand. It heralded the start of our South East Asia journey, and we arrived with high hopes propped up by more recommendations that any other to date. Plus, we had timed our arrival to overlap with Dave and Emma’s departure, so with a bit of knowledge transfer, and beer, our arrival in Bangkok had the potential to be quite wonderful. Was the capital of Thailand just another big stinky city? Would the locals be pleased to see us? Just what do cockroaches taste like?

Even Ronald knows how to say hello Thai style!

Even Ronald knows how to say hello Thai style!

We took a 570B taxi from the airport to Roof View Place, just north of Khao San Road, for 570B and on the way in things were already looking encouraging. Nobody had tried to pilfer our bags from the baggage reclaim area in exchange for cash and even the buildings looked like they’d had a wash recently. At about 9pm we crossed the threshold, and immediately the receptionist did wonderfully helpful things like take our passports and write down all the details for us. She took our bags and placed them in a luggage elevator so that we didn’t have to lug them to the fourth floor. She gave us a map and told us about breakfast. All while being exceptionally polite and giving us a big smile. She then gave us a note saying; “Guys, we’re in room 505 and we’ve got beers in the fridge. See you soon!”. We were pretty sure we were going to enjoy Thailand!

Lynette loved the cheeky mannequins dotted around our hostel.

Lynette loved the cheeky mannequins dotted around our hostel.

Roof View Place isn’t the cheapest at 750B for a double room, but it is wonderfully clean, good Wi-Fi everywhere, air conditioning, balcony, a good and varied all you can eat breakfast, free coffee and water and friendly helpful staff. They even have a very good Visa service and pretty competitive tours. As Dave & Emma put it, a great place to rely on when you’re bouncing to and fro from Bangkok which seems to happen a lot in South East Asia. Our plan was to spend the first two days doing not much constructive, which wasn’t hard, before heading to Surin Elephant Roundup – which we’ll write about later – and then coming back to have a proper search around. The notable parts are our first impressions when walking around. Usually we don’t like the smog and bustle of big cities, but in Bangkok it seems to happen with a very clean smile. Except for Tuk Tuk drivers, nobody pushes you to buy anything and you can even browse the market with relative tranquillity. It was a revelation when in Indian cities (and South America but slightly less so) you couldn’t walk ten paces without being pushed or pulled into a hawker’s zone of attack.

For 50B a mixed bag of deep fried maggots, cockroaches, grasshoppers, ants and other unidentifiables. Tastes like chicken (shredded, dipped in soy sauce and burnt to a cinder in oil).

For 50B a mixed bag of deep fried maggots, cockroaches, grasshoppers, ants and other unidentifiables. Tastes like chicken (shredded, dipped in soy sauce and burnt to a cinder in oil).

The beeping was gone; these people know how to drive (on the left). They had a Boots, and even a Tescos. A street adorned with food stalls was like walking through a box of chocolates, you could pick and nibble all day. It didn’t feel like we were trying to punch our way out of a paper bag, it was more like landing in a big warm duvet. Underneath the mostly Western veneer, Golden ridged Buddhist temples, or Wats, are randomly scattered throughout the city while monks travel in the reserved rear of buses wearing their bright orange robes. The word Ka (for women) or Kap (for men) is liberally sprinkled through conversation as a sign of respect usually finished with a quick bow and prayer. It is all very refreshing!

While in Bangkok we went to a number of different places and we’ll give a quick rundown on each;

One of the many magnificent flots (?) used in the relatively recent Queen’s funeral. One of the many magnificent flots (?) used in the relatively recent Queen’s funeral. The National Museum – Free English tours on Wednesday and Thursday at 09:30 by volunteers are absolutely fantastic and well worth attending. A genuine passion for the subject by our Dutch guide took us through ancient Buddhist and Hindu sculptures, described the religious history of South East Asia and set the scene for ever other artefact we have seen both since and before. Although the spoilsports don’t let you take photos.

Not quite straight looking either. Not quite straight looking either. The Grand Palace – A huge and beautiful assortment of buildings sporting more gold than Fort Knox and home to the famous Emerald Buddha (actually made of Jade). Particularly fussy over your clothing, Lynette’s Sari was deemed unworthy and she was forced to hire and wear a rather large and very fetching blue shirt.

The smell of cheesy feet round here certainly has nothing to do with Buddha’s enormous plates of meat. The smell of cheesy feet round here certainly has nothing to do with Buddha’s enormous plates of meat. Wat Pho – Each Wat comprises a Buddhist temple, living quarters for the monks, often a school and Pagodas that can spear the sky. All are gloriously decorated and pop impressively out of nowhere while walking around. Wat Pho is the oldest temple in Bangkok, and most famous for its humungous reclining Buddha. An impressive Wat with expansive and wonderful surroundings to match.

In the National Elephant Museum, where the most interesting exhibit was six large pickling jars morbidly containing parts of an elephants skin. In the National Elephant Museum, where the most interesting exhibit was six large pickling jars morbidly containing parts of an elephants skin. Vimanmek Palace – The 250B ticket to the Grand Palace also buys you entry to think nailless Teak mansion that was occasional home to the royal family and also Thailand’s first light bulb. Large numbers of unique and amazing artefacts including furniture and ceramics decorate the entire house that you walk through on the necessary guided tour. For most this is an interesting afternoon, for some it must be fascinating.

Patravadi Theatre, such good fun we forgot to take a decent video! Patravadi Theatre, such good fun we forgot to take a decent video! Patravadi Theatre – Absolutely amazing evening in a rather splendid restaurant with the twist that you eat around a stage where different and engaging performances continue throughout the evening that actually often involve the audience. Whether body perfect Thai classical dance, surprise ceiling gymnastics dangling from silk or break dancing workmen all were brilliant and a great night. The food is expensive but the performance free. A brilliant Friday night.

And when HP can’t help… it is the geek orgasm that is Panthip Plaza to the rescue! And when HP can’t help… it is the geek orgasm that is Panthip Plaza to the rescue! Panthip Plaza – India’s parting words to us involved a broken laptop which after a failed attempt to repair involved buying a replacement. Awesome fun. Panthip Plaza is geek paradise, about ten football fields worth of tech gear ranging from laptops and computers to USB powered coffee mugs and pirate software manuals.

Lynette pondering how to remove the spherical stone from the Lion’s mouth and therefore gaining immortality.

Lynette pondering how to remove the spherical stone from the Lion’s mouth and therefore gaining immortality.

We’d already booked a night train to Surin online and cheerfully headed off in that direction for the Elephant Roundup, which we’ll write about in the next post. The second time we scarpered was to Kanchanaburi, for the Bridge over River Kwai festival which we’ll also write about later. We’re coming back again after Pai before taking a bus to Cambodia. Months later, we’ll probably return for a last bit of sunshine in South Thailand before flying home. It’s a great place, so we don’t mind one bit!

Arriving in Bangkok for the Thailand experience! Our first few days in Thailand, mainly in Bangkok, checking out Wats and eating cockroaches!

Virtually all temples require you to take your shoes off. To avoid confusion, avoid black leather shoes…	Buddha is depicted in many different ways depending on the country the sculpture originates from.	Buddha is always depicted with elongated ears, three wrinkles in his neck (showing wisdom) and a very asexual appearance.	Thai Buddha statues have nowhere near this level of decoration, believing Buddha to have dressed more like a peasant than the prince he was born as.	This is Brahma, god of creation, usually idientafiable due to his head having four faces.
A cactus/plant hybrid at the Bangkok National Museum.	One of the ornate chairs that sits astride an elepant.	The time and patience it must take to craft each piece is beyond imagination.	Yet more beautiful carvings from the Bangkok National Museum.	Ancient Thai weaponry, often used from astride an elephant.
I loved this ancient Thai mini-gun, basically a revolver on steroids.	The glittering colours enchanted us; Lynette now owns a very similar style pendant!	Some of the beautiful Thai architecture by night.	A statue guarding Phra Mondop.	Constant renovation keeps the finishings gleaming.
Buddha allowed these birdmen to guard his temple’s as a route to redemption.	Not quite the Blue Man group.	A big scary beastie eating people. Yes, we need to brush up our Thai history.	Thai’s praying with Lotus flowers.	Outside it is a common custom to dip Lotus flowers in blessed water and then hit yourself on the head with them.
A long line of the golden bird men guarding The Royal Monastery.	The ubquitous military presence changing guard.	Another wonderfully golden throne inside Amarindra Winitchai hal.	A selection of Bonsai trees.	Lynette pondering how to remove the spherical stone from the Lion’s mouth and therefore gaining immortality.
Looking up to Chakri Maha Prasat Hall, surrounded by beautifully preened trees, like something from Mario Land.	Elephants are another important piece of Thailand’s tradition and history.	Lynette in her ultra trendy blue shirt; they’re not fond of bare skin round here!	Lynette and I in front of Chakri Maha Prasat Hall.	The Grand Palace grounds, not a bad place to live.
No skirts, shorts, tight trousers, bared shoulders, see through tops or naked bellies. Even Sari’s don’t pass muster… hence Lynette’s new and thankfully temporary item of clothing.	A thirty foot high poster of the King at a traffic junction, he is unbelievably important to Thai people.	On to Wat Pho, one of the most famous and beautiful Wat’s in Thailand.	These are Pagodas, coming in various shapes and sizes, and of major interest to lightning.	One of many fifteen foot high sculptures guarding either side of each Wat entrance.
A huge golden Buddha, both touching the ground and being raised by a snake combining two stories from his history.	On site is a school for young Thais, here they are making a right racket learning traditional Thai instruments.	The smell of cheesy feet round here certainly has nothing to do with Buddha’s enormous plates of meat.	On one side of the Buddha’s room, people drop coins into each and every pot in a long line, the constant clicking sounding almost musical as it echoes around the room.	Even Ronald knows how to say hello Thai style!
A humungous example of a Jack fruit! (We think)…	Electric cabling in Bangkok, this is a noodle junction.	The famous bugs and insects street seller…	For 50B a mixed bag of deep fried maggots, cockroaches, grasshoppers, ants and other unidentifiables. Tastes like chicken (shredded, dipped in soy sauce and burnt to a cinder in oil).	After our HP Netbook broke we went to the top; HP Thailand Headquarters. They said ‘We fix it long time’.
Lynette loved the cheeky mannequins dotted around our hostel.	Quite what this one is doing we’re not entirely sure…	One of the many magnificent flots (?) used in the relatively recent Queen’s funeral.	A very old Thai typewriter… not as many letters in their alphabet as we thought!	A very old Chessboard from Thailand.
Some of the wonderfully odd masks in the Arts & Games section.	A Japanese ceramic from the Edo period.	The Ivory room, (hopefully) old tusks greet you on entry.	The evident carving skills are astounding, seemingly without limitation.	The closer you look at the minute detail, yet more fine work jumps into view.
We certainly won’t be attempting to send anything like this back in the post…	A scale model of a traditional Thai home; requiers good weather and a stepladder.	They don’t make them like this in Ikea…	In the Mother of Pearl room, this ancient throne.	Thai xylophones, hopefully hypnotizing at least two senses.
To make court textiles appealing to the nose, ladies used to dip them in coconut juice before boling them in perfumed water.	Ladies of the Palace also used to coordinate their colours with each other according to each day of the week.	A beautiful patterned Prince’s jacket.	An exquisitely adorned Prince’s hat.	In the music room, instruments meet art.
Beats a triangle any day.	When running low on bathroom supplies, only one place to go… Teco Lotus!	And when HP can’t help… it is the geek orgasm that is Panthip Plaza to the rescue!	Inside the Grand Palace these humungoes statues colourfully guard various doors…	Basking in the golden glow of Phra Siratana Chedi.
Every surface studded with colour and carving, every space slotted with statues and spiritual purpose.	Looking back from the Upper Terrace down to the one of the Grand Palace’s entrances.	One of the chapel’s within the Grand Palace’s grounds.	Inside the Grand Palace, randomly a scale model of Angkor Wat.	Not quite straight looking either.
Looking at the entrance to Prasat Phra Dhepbidorn (The Royal Pantheon), where resides the famous Emerald Buddha.	Thai beliefs allow constant repainting of the historically covered walls, as long as the style remains unaltered.	The famous Emerald Buddha! In fact carved from a block of jade…	Outside here the bird men are made from bushes.	Gold is only allowed to adorn religious or royal buildings, otherwise it brings bad luck.
Looking back at the various Wat structures spearing the sky.	Apparently doing a gay dance below the head of the largest reclining golden Buddha in Thailand.	More Mother of Pearl makes these soles more glorious than a first class pedicure.	Boarding our first river taxi, a fast and cheap way to head North or South in Bangkok.	In the National Elephant Museum, where the most interesting exhibit was six large pickling jars morbidly containing parts of an elephants skin.
In the gardens of Vimanmek Palace!	We think this is Suan Amporn, with very European architecture.	Wat Pho by night.	Patravadi Theatre, such good fun we forgot to take a decent video!

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