The expiditionary crew for the day, wearing trendy leech protectors.23-Nov-2009 02:00, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 10.0, 30.0mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 100
On 18th September 1962, Khao Yai became the first national park of Thailand, and at only four hours from Bangkok one of the most popular. We’d been in cities for a while again now, and with a thirst for wildlife decided for a brief stop here on the way back from Surin. No three day hikes, just a day and a half tour, we hopped off our bus at 14:45 immediately meeting a lady on her first few days of selling tours. After a quick bit of bargaining, we managed to arrange our tour with Bobby’s Accommodation and were on our half day starting trek by 15:00 with bags in rooms. Not bad going, but was the trip itself going to be any good? Would we see the fabled Gibbon monkey? What does bat pee smell like?
Note: 1 GBP = ~55 Thai Baht at time of writing.
Do 102 things in one excursion! That’s one more than our nearest competitor!
Do 102 things in one excursion! That’s one more than our nearest competitor!22-Nov-2009 09:56, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.3, 4.1mm, 0.067 sec, ISO 400
We’d managed to arrive in Pak Chong for our tour of Khao Yai relatively successfully after a 78B bus from Khorat. We’d intended to go with Green Leaf tours, but for exactly the same tour and a better price we opted to go with Bobby’s Jungle Tours and were on the jeep within thirty minutes of meeting the rep at the bus station. No time wasted there… 1,300B for one and a half days if I recall. The place itself was great, accommodation is large and cheap with TV and private bath all clean. No Wi-Fi, but we weren’t going to be there for long. The restaurant is excellent, good prices and great atmosphere, spent both nights talking waffle until late with various other people on the tours and always had a mile on our faces.
The stream begins! Bats erupt with perfect sunset timing…
The stream begins! Bats erupt with perfect sunset timing…22-Nov-2009 11:54, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 50.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400
The first half day highlight was The Bat Cave, where hundreds of thousands of bats come streaming out at night to feed on the dusk insects. The fast flowing streak flows for about thirty minutes continuously, and we were lucky for the display to be set against a glorious sunset at the same time. Here we met Bonsai our guide, a crazy Thai who’d been a guide for over twenty years and was teaching his son the same. The bat stream occasionally pulsed, an odd visual phenomena where the entire flow instantly changed density for a split second before continuing as before. Hard to explain, easier to impart is the need to not stand underneath them as you risk being peed on (you can hear the soft patter) and it really does whiff. We had other stops, such as a pool, but this was a bit poor, and we didn’t get to see the promised caves as we ran out of time. Plus, a lot of driving in the back of a jeep, take a jacket.
Great photo of a baby Macaque picking through branches in Khao Yai.
Great photo of a baby Macaque picking through branches in Khao Yai.23-Nov-2009 02:42, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 200.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 400
The next day was a full day of driving and trekking around Khao Yai National Park itself. Apparently the Thais are not fond of too much physical activity, so the entire park is carved up by good tarmac roads. Great for mopeds, a little too convenient for hikers. We saw various plants and animals on our trip, you can see from the photos, the Tiger root was just as intensely strong as the balm and the rampant Banyan tree is interesting to understand. Unfortunately elephants, tigers and bears all eluded us, but they exist and can be spotted if you’re lucky. Not much more to say than that!
New! The True Story! Films! Photos! The Death Railway Museum! Free coffee!
New! The True Story! Films! Photos! The Death Railway Museum! Free coffee!29-Nov-2009 06:54, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, ISO 200
Our next major stop was Kanchanaburi, the other side of Bangkok (where we stayed again briefly and is covered in the Bangkok post). We stayed in the excellent Thai Backpacker Guesthouse, clean and good value with friendly owners. Kanchanaburi is the place to be if you want to understand a little more about The Death Railway, where the Japanese used 60,000 Allied POWs and 200,000 conscripted Asian labourers to build a railway between Thailand and Burma, with the aim of using this to supply an army that could conquer India and beyond. Using picks, shovels, dynamite and pulleys they shifted three million cubic metres of rock and built nine miles of bridges. Fifteen months later it was finished, and earned its name due to the sixteen thousand POWs and one hundred thousand Asian labourers that died while working on it.
Looking down the Bridge over River Kwai.29-Nov-2009 10:29, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 200
The bridge itself is just a bridge. The bridge in the famous film was a different bridge, so it doesn’t even look like you expect. However, what it represents is very important and a welcome break for us to look into a little more recent associated history. The Death Railway museum (100B) next to the Kanchanaburi War Cemetery was excellent, and gave us a great insight into the trials, tribulations, and ultimately the deaths that occurred during the building process. Lynette spotted a Mace (our surname) on her rounds of the cemetery, which prompted a search on his name when we visited the museum.
Lynette found a Mace amongst the graves, after a search in the POW database we found that William Frederick Mace died of dysentery aged 42 in Tha Sao Hospital.
Lynette found a Mace amongst the graves, after a search in the POW database we found that William Frederick Mace died of dysentery aged 42 in Tha Sao Hospital.29-Nov-2009 06:34, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, ISO 200
We found that William Frederick Mace was a gunner in the 4th Anti Tank Regiment of the Royal Australian Artillery. He worked in Pukai, Wong Pho and Kannyu, before dying of dysentery on 22nd July 1943 at the age of 42. This was shortly after Japanese HQ ordered the building process to be completed faster and conditions worsened, but before the wet season began and thousands more died to disease and malnutrition. We found another Mace in the same search, who died at the age of 29 (my age) in Chungkai Camp, the son of Arthur Samuel and Harriet Mace of South Lowecroft, Suffolk. The cause of death was unlisted, it was a sombre moment. Again, in the cemetery Lynette spotted a row of graves where everybody had died on the same date. What had caused their death cannot have been a great moment for construction, and serves to remind us how far World War II reached, and the atrocities that were wreaked in every corner of the earth.
Considered tacky by some, it was done with due respect and relevance.
Considered tacky by some, it was done with due respect and relevance.29-Nov-2009 14:13, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.3, 4.1mm, 0.125 sec, ISO 800
On a happier note, Lynette and I shared (!) our anniversary while we were in Kanchanaburi and decided to continue our theme of war (I proposed at the Coliseum in Rome) by having a romantic meal during the Light & Sound show repeatedly nightly during the Bridge over River Kwai festival. We booked our 500B ticket for a boat ride and meal that slowly meandered down the river before resting next to the bridge for the show itself. The romantic ideal in our head was not fulfilled, we were the only Farangs (foreigners) on board bar the retired Dutch quartet we shared a table with. Who were lovely, but when you’re planning on a table for two… they also had a Thai guide in tow, who insisted on sending back the food that was being piled on our table as his group had not finished yet. Very nice, but WE wanted it! And then, possibly the highlight dish was a large curried fish, he managed to drop the entire thing on the floor, before LAUGHING about it. He nearly didn’t make the trip home… thankfully we calmed down, and watched the elaborate yet respectful display we’d taken the trip here for. Afterwards, we went back to the hostel, sat down with beer and watched X-Factor.
Thailand is going well, we’re finding more and varied things to do, meeting more people than we did in the whole of India, the food’s still gorgeous and the people are still great. Next stop, Ayutthaya!
The bat cave up close, home to hundreds of thousands we were patiently waiting for.22-Nov-2009 11:01, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 4.9, 49.2mm, 0.013 sec, ISO 400
The stream lasted for about half an hour, with random pulses and a danger of being peed on if you stood underneath.22-Nov-2009 11:58, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, 0.025 sec, ISO 1600
Sitting comfortable in the branches, these guys weren’t afraid of humans.23-Nov-2009 02:41, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 200.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 400
An adult Gibbon feeding, they can move at up to 50km/hr through the trees.23-Nov-2009 03:08, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 200.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400
A huge beast, a Gaur! Not a Grrr. Scarey skeleton, probably docile when covered with flesh!23-Nov-2009 03:35, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.3, 4.1mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 400
This tiger was shot when repeatedly attacking rangers. Stuffed to put anyone else off the idea.23-Nov-2009 03:46, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.3, 4.1mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 320
A Banyan tree, who’s roots drop to the floor from branches and let the starting trunk pass away peacefully.23-Nov-2009 04:51, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.3, 4.1mm, 0.05 sec, ISO 400
Bonsai pointing out one of the Banyan tree’s routes on its long journey to the ground.23-Nov-2009 05:04, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.3, 4.1mm, 0.025 sec, ISO 400
Lynette chewing on a bit of Tiger Root, smells just as strong as the real thing!23-Nov-2009 05:13, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 55.0mm, 0.067 sec, ISO 400
The strange trunks are like webs of skin and create a funny echo up the tree when hit.23-Nov-2009 05:47, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.3, 4.1mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 400
Breaking out into some open space in the middle of Khao Yai national park.23-Nov-2009 06:35, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 9.0, 55.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400
Rapidly swimming away, he didn’t stop to bite our legs off, always a bonus.23-Nov-2009 07:42, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 81.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 400
Lynette and I in front of Haeo Suwat Waterfall in Khao Yai National Park, apparently used in the filming of The Beach.23-Nov-2009 09:24, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.7, 7.3mm, 0.013 sec, ISO 80
Bonsai’s eye. Don’t know why. He didn’t cry. He couldn’t fly. This made him sigh.23-Nov-2009 09:52, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 5.6, 200.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 800
Looking over the edge of Haeo Suwat Waterfall in Khao Yai National Park, used in The Beach.23-Nov-2009 09:55, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 4.0, 4.1mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 80
These antlers fall off and regrow every year covered in skin, baring for the mating season only.23-Nov-2009 11:37, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 55.0mm, 0.077 sec, ISO 200
Don Rak Kanchanaburi War Cemetary with 6,892 POW graves amidst immaculately kept lawns.29-Nov-2009 06:21, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 4.0, 28.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 200
Lynette found a Mace amongst the graves, after a search in the POW database we found that William Frederick Mace died of dysentery aged 42 in Tha Sao Hospital.29-Nov-2009 06:34, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, ISO 200
Lynette looking at the central monument, it is a few weeks after remembrance day but the poppies remain.29-Nov-2009 06:45, Canon Canon EOS 400D DIGIT, 3.5, 28.0mm, ISO 200
42,000 deaths were Malay and Tamil, British had 6,904 deaths (7%) building the Death Railway.29-Nov-2009 07:48, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.3, 4.1mm, 0.125 sec, ISO 400
Marmite was a saviour for the workers, containing necessary vitamins and minerals they did not receive elsewhere in their diet.29-Nov-2009 08:12, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.7, 6.9mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 160
They inscribed dates and information on their crockery, on risk of punishment or death if found.29-Nov-2009 08:12, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.7, 6.9mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 400
The golden spike, representing the mid-point of the railway where the two building sides met.29-Nov-2009 08:18, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.7, 7.3mm, 0.125 sec, ISO 400
The famous Bridge over River Kwai, you can see the different building style where bombs took out two pillars.29-Nov-2009 09:58, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 5.0, 4.1mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 80
The different nationalities of troops crossing the bridge, including the Japanese.29-Nov-2009 13:49, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 4.9, 49.2mm, 0.125 sec, ISO 800
This Japanese gun boat later exploded and a man in flames jumped into the River Kwai. Part of the show, we’re assured…29-Nov-2009 14:19, Panasonic DMC-TZ6, 3.4, 4.7mm, 0.125 sec, ISO 800
Hi! Nice weblog, good to see you’re still having fun travelling. If you don’t mind, we will take some nice photos of our jungle trekking in Khao Yai from your website Our camera unfortunately isn’t suitable for making these kind of photos! Have a safe trip!
Greetz, Nick and Marianne
Do 102 things in one excursion! That’s one more than our nearest competitor!
The stream begins! Bats erupt with perfect sunset timing…
Great photo of a baby Macaque picking through branches in Khao Yai.
New! The True Story! Films! Photos! The Death Railway Museum! Free coffee!
Looking down the Bridge over River Kwai.
Lynette found a Mace amongst the graves, after a search in the POW database we found that William Frederick Mace died of dysentery aged 42 in Tha Sao Hospital.
Considered tacky by some, it was done with due respect and relevance.
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Hi! Nice weblog, good to see you’re still having fun travelling. If you don’t mind, we will take some nice photos of our jungle trekking in Khao Yai from your website
Our camera unfortunately isn’t suitable for making these kind of photos! Have a safe trip!
Greetz, Nick and Marianne