Christmas shenanigans out of the way, we were moving onto Nha Trang where New Year mayhem would occur. Following the festive period with a bit of plant life at the flower festival in chilled out Da Lat, surely we would cover all bases of cultural, social and natural wonder over the next week? Would we find some New Year buddies to party with? Do glowstick flowers or real flowers make better photo material? Would Lynette get on a scooter with Steve…and if she did, would she survive?
Sleeper bus! As you can see on the top left, Steve’s a little too long for the beds so his feet sit above the little foot pocket!
So a 9h, $7.5 sleeper bus from Ho Chi Minh to Nha Trang was different to say the least. It was the first time we’d seen one never mind get on the thing. First thing, no shoes so you take off shoes as you get on and put them in a plastic bag. Three columns of beds filled out the bus but you can’t raise the seats to read – you’re permanently flat so they’re slightly bizarre. This bus also had the added functionality of sporadically getting stuck in reverse! We jumped in the hostel in Nha Trang right outside where the bus dropped us off – it was a 15min walk to the centre but was cheaper than all the hostels there anyway so was fine. That evening we ventured for our first of many trips to the Why Not? Bar complete with all jokes – “should we have another drink?”, “Why Not?” ha-de-ha-ha.
Poser on Nha Trang beach!
Our first day was spent with a much needed lie in after Ho Chi Minh antics and then a trip to the beach for a bit of sun time. As we didn’t get there til the afternoon, it was a bit of a shocker when the sun went in at 4pm. Nonetheless the beach is long, quiet and pretty and we enjoyed lounging on it for a while. The boulevards are also lined with many beautiful stone sculptures and topiary everywhere – the Vietnamese really like to look after their ‘green’ spaces. Later that evening we ended up at Why Not? again where we met with an Australian girl waiting for her boyfriend and two friends to join her so we had a few drinks and when they turned up, discovered they were from London and had a few more! They were also going to go on a boat trip the following day and asked if we would join them. As this was one of the relaxing days out we’d been intent on doing, we agreed and so we were compatriots in crime for New Year’s Eve Day.
New Year’s Eve…
The best boy band in Vietnam
…started with a slight hangover from the earlier evening’s mayhem so after the early morning 10 min transfer to our $7 boat which was horrendously packed, none of us felt much like chatting. Brisk sea air for 30mins soon changed that as we arrived at our first stop of the day for snorkelling. We donned masks and jumped into the water. Well, my mask didn’t fit right – they were hardly top of the range models but still. There were lots of local boats churning around the waters so it proved virtually impossible for anyone to get their masks on whilst in the water which obviously posed a problem. After around half an hour of trying to get the stupid mask on, I decided to give up and clambered back on the boat to lie on the top deck. Steve managed to get his mask on and went off to snorkel but reported later that he didn’t see much. I was more concerned with the moron on a speedboat who went flying through the snorkelling area and nearly hit Steve who’d swam downwards to get a better look nearer the sea bottom. Despite many expletives and not much snorkelling, it was still fun jumping around in the sea with the others.
So many animals, so little room!
We felt a little more awake after our sea dips so enjoyed milling around on the top deck in the sun until our next stop for lunch. It was really tasty! Around 10 different dishes in all – fish, squid, prawns, salads, noodles, tofu – really good spread. The ‘boyband’ then started up – the crew dressed up and sang songs to get everyone going before the floating bar was started – essentially the main guide sitting in a rubber ring giving out free wine to everyone. I decided to opt for chief photographer instead knowing that we had a big night on its way! The rest of the gang floated about in rubber rings, getting sloshed which was funny to watch and even funnier to see them trying to pose for pictures! Next stop was a beach you had to pay to go on but it was a rubbish pebbly beach so we all just stayed on the top deck of the boat apart from two of the London guys who jumped in the water only to jump out again a few minutes later as another boat came into dock and had no intention of slowing down to let them climb out – it was a pretty close shave! Health and safety regs aren’t that prevalent in Vietnam that’s for sure! Our last stop of the day was a small aquarium housed in a giant boat in the guise of a pirate’s ship (random!). It was fun to wander around – we saw various large monster fish, smaller colourful fish, sharks and starfish (see how technical I am when it comes to fish names, ahem!). Turtles were also there in one of the outside pools so the underwater photography skills came into play! By this time, we were all flagging a little so we were all quite happy to be going back to land to freshen up for the fun this evening! We arranged to meet up later at….you guessed it…Why Not?
NYE gang just after midnight! Lisa, Martin, Hemppa, Steve and me
Went to Why Not? but couldn’t see the others so we got talking to two Australians and a UK couple called Hayley and Sam at our table. They were lovely so we moved bars with them and en route one of the Ozzy guys bought us all glowstick bracelets. Steve (ever the competitive one LOL) then bought me a giant flower made out of glowsticks which I decided was best placed down my cleavage – classy! At the next bar, we had a tap on our shoulders and saw Finnish Hemppa from Phnom Penh. He had two British friends in tow – Lisa and Martin so we all formed a motley NYE crew. Hemppa had bought a motorbike in HCMC to cycle through Vietnam so at some point in the evening, we all went to have a look and a pose on the bike 
Much drink, bar hopping and fun ended in us going to The Sailors Club just in time for the countdown which they bodged as they had to hold up a lost 4 year old girl at that point…The countdown restarted (can you really do that on NYE?) and we all cheered in 2010 (2mins late) as a Happy New Year sign was set on fire. Note: this was part of the celebration and not accidental. We stayed there til late with ‘buckets’ of vodka and juice the order of the day. On the way home, Steve became rather awestruck at the Vietnamese flag which he kept wanting to sit down and look at…it was Baltic though! As we continued wandering home, ladyboys kept jumping off mopeds to hug him! Oh that’s right, they were frisking him at the same time – a drunk foreigner isn’t likely to wonder why the man/woman wants a hug but Steve still had some wit about him so he told them to jeff off. Very funny night though!
New Year’s Day
Me and Hemppa on his motorbike - not a mission if the thing was switched on!
New Year’s Resloution: No more alcohol EVER! (and it nearly lasted a full 6h). We’d arranged to meet our crew from last night for breakfast – an English fry up was very much needed by all. The rest of the day was split between lying on the beach and playing in the sea – there are worse ways to spend the first day of a New Year I guess! Dinner later that evening involved just a few hair of the dogs…
Da Lat
Think his girlfriend pimped his car!
After too many drink fuelled days in Nha Trang, we decided to escape to the peace that would be Da Lat. Recommended by all we met and coupled with the fact a flower festival was taking place there, we felt sure this would replenish our weary heads and our jaded livers. A 6h, 110,000D bus journey later (with the vocal accompaniment of a Vietnamese lady throwing up ridiculously loudly in the bus the ENTIRE journey) we realised our faux pas. The streets were absolutely rammed (like Pai in Thailand on the King’s Birthday). We met some backpackers who were paying $5 each to sleep on the reception floor of hotels!!! I did what I do best in these situations and settled down with a coffee and a book whilst ‘guarding’ the bags whilst Steve went off hunter gathering. An hour later he reappeared, 100% success rate still intact having found a hotel 10min walk away. It was a large room although smelly which was a super find considering what everyone else was putting up with! Note: DO NOT TRAVEL TO ANY CITY IN FUTURE ON A FESTIVAL DAY!
How cool is this flower?
We freshened up at the hotel and went to find food. As the local Vietnamese places had apparently run out of food (?!?) we settled in a bar with a pizza each. The pizzas were crazy – the toppings were piled 5 times higher than a normal pizza so they proved quite difficult to eat – more like a pizza with a pie topping and no knives and forks. Conundrum. Steve enjoyed working it out :). As we gave up on the evening and prepared to leave the restaurant, massive sets of fireworks were being set off in the distance. The whole town stopped to watch and they went on for about 45 minutes. Imagine the final 3 or 4 minutes of a fireworks display in the UK, when they have the big showdown and stretch it out over the course of the whole display – it was amazing! Some of the fireworks even exploded in red heart shapes with blue triangles piercing them! The best fireworks display we have ever seen!
We all love flowers!
We switched hostels this morning to one with wifi in the room and without a smell. Good choice. Downstairs was a cafe where we ate breakfast but is also where a lot of the local Easyriders have their morning coffee (or beer!). They will hassle you non-stop and did so to us. We simply weren’t interested – the number of beer bottles in front of some of them already that morning confirming that we didn’t want their help! One of the Easyriders told us the ‘best’ way to walk to the flower festival. Reread the last sentence and switch ‘best’ for ‘incorrect’ and you’re closer – an hour walking in the wrong direction, we came back, had a cup of tea and set off again in the direction we thought more likely. As we passed the large indoor market, we could see stalls all around each side of the road selling souvenirs and snacks. As we got nearer Lake Xuan Huang which is manmade, we could see stall upon stall with flower arrangements – mainly beautiful orchids, but some bonsai also. The orchids were stunning in every colour and pattern imaginable. We walked around the Lake which was about 8km altogether. It was pretty but had a lot of litter in it and there were pedalo swans in which I have always failed to see the point in!
Entrance to the flower gardens - made up of potted flowers
Partway around the Lake, we came to Da Lat’s famous flower gardens. We’d already seen the plethora of greenhouses in the countryside around Da Lat. The gateway to the gardens was shaped out of thousands of potted plants. The gardens were like a public park with fountains, ornate topiary – some like teapots. There were orchids absolutely everywhere – spotted, striped, every colour imaginable. Giant tents housed the orchids with vendors pitching for business for garden furniture, garden ornaments and plants. Snow White and the seven dwarves were ornaments placed in one garden exhibition. One side of the main garden was covered in bonsai displays which were cute with all the accessories they’d put in the displays – people, animals, temples, water wheels. We bought an ice cream there which bizarrely (corruptly) went up in price when sold to us as opposed to the Vietnamese in front of us… On the right hand side of the main gardens were more vendors with safari and wedding themed flower displays. It was very pretty but the highlights for me were the orchids. Steve loved every second of it (but mainly the seconds when we were leaving…).
Just about to set off on our cart down to the waterfalls - the only way of controlling this thing is the lever on the left which is the brake
So after a heated debate last night over the inflated costs for a local tour around the area, Steve finally got his way and rented a scooter for us. The traffic was mayhem and I didn’t feel safe on scooter one bit. Going through traffic to leave the city was horrendous. There are literally no rules on the road – whichever side you want to drive down, go for it. If you run out of road, use the pavement – it’s like Hell’s Driving School. Out on the mountain roads it wasn’t quite as scary as there was less traffic but I’d have been much more comfortable in a car. With our bit-map we headed towards the Datanla and Prenn waterfalls. We arrived at a cable car station (?) and the views were stunning as they were all over the mountain trail and are one of the reasons for visiting Da Lat. Lush forests and flower farms could be seen for miles. The cable car was shut for lunch (what does it eat?) so we continued towards the waterfalls. The first we arrived at were the Datanla Falls. We parked up, asked some locals how to open the seat to store our stuff and went in. First thing we saw was a rollercoaster buggy to take us down. It went really fast (with the usual Vietnamese level of health and safety with regards to seatbelts…). It was tacky but hilarious. The falls were pretty but nothing overly special. Next, the buggy back up – it’s more boring going back up – and onto the scooter to the Prenn waterfalls.
Dantala waterfall
We got ever so slightly lost on the way to Prenn as they were doing up the road to make it even more confusing and so hadn’t bothered with any signs as of yet. Arriving at Prenn, we bought an overpriced coffee, then walked down to the waterfall, stopping on the way for Steve to try his hand at the archery to win a bottle of wine. He was close but no cigar. At the bottom, you could pose for a photo with a local dressed in local gear or climb into the elephant’s mouth to cross a bridge i.e. it was quite touristy kitsch! The waterfall again was pretty and you could walk under it, although we nearly gave up trying to take a photo of us under it as people kept walking into the picture.
Through the Keyhole would have a tough job!
Following the waterfalls, we drove around the hills for a while before heading back to Da Lat for our last stop of the day – The Crazy House! Built by a mad architect and her father, it definitely stands out on the street! It’s made up of different rooms all named after an animal with a huge replica of the animal in each room. The whole place is linked by curved staircases and the exterior is cladded in concrete to look like a fluid formation of lumps and bumps. Very interesting to look around and very wacky! Steve finally drove me back to the hostel – huge sigh of relief. He went to fill the bike up with petrol and came back to tell me how he was just a split second behind a crash between a motorbike and a lorry – argh! Dinner that night was steak and chips which was absolutely lovely, followed by mouldy cake (not so lovely but the owner told us he wouldn’t charge us for it – generous to a fault or faulty generous?) The following day we left Da Lat to go back to Nha Trang to get a bus to Hoi An (can’t go North any other way). Whilst waiting for our bus in Nha Trang, we went for dinner in a restaurant which is two doors down from Why Not? if you leave the bar and head left. It was delicious! A seafood basket of oysters, mussels, prawns, fish and clams – 190,000D for the meal which serves two plus a free beer each. They took the basket and cooked each set of seafood a different way, bringing out each dish as it was cooked. Best meal since Thailand! On to the capital, Hanoi!
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